skid

Managed to get a new ignition switch and got it fitted this afternoon, and starts with the key :) What a PITA that screw is to take out! Bent my screw driver into various shapes and angles to eventually get the best to work. What i did do to help put it back in was to cut tiny slots around the side of the head of the screw and used gasket pick to grab the slots and spin it back in. Made it so much easier. Big thanks to Yan and all the guys that suggested it was the switch. At least i now know to look out for this on my VR6!

Well big thanks to Yan and his very descriptive post, i shorted the wires in the ignition plug and the car started.:) Just need to get the ignition switch changed now!

Yan. It only gets 12V when its put to the start position! There is hardly any movement in the key/lock situation and i have tried put various pressure/angles, wiggles and it makes no difference to it. I will try and remove the connection and Jump the wires. Is there a guide for changing the Ignition switch?

So your saying it's a complete ignition switch to be replaced? As said the car has only done 52k! Never knew it was a common problem! What price was you for a replacement?

Just to clarify Yan, I am talking about the solenoid wire (red and black)that is giving 12v when I turn the ignition! If that is giving 12v why is it not starting the starter motor when a 12v jump wire from the battery does?

Tried + wire off battery to solenoid switch and car starts.:) Checked the X contact relay and it works, it stops wipers, fan etc when i try to start the car. Checked the + switch wire that goes to the solenoid and it gives 12.10- 12.30 V when i turn the ignition but when connected to the solenoid nothing happens!??? Any more ideas guys?

Tried to get my G60 running the other day but the car would not even turn over. The car has not been used for a couple of years and just sat idle on my drive since we moved house. Its only got 52K on it. Freshly charged battery put in. Immobiliser seams to work fine. Fuel pump primes when i turn the key. Ignition relay clicks when i turn the key. Interior lights/dash lights work Just the car does not crank when i turn the key. Got the AA out and the guy stated it was a seized starter motor! We managed to bump start the car. I changed the starter motor today for a brand new Bosch one and still the same!........nothing :( Any thoughts?

Thanks. And these are going to which colours from the dryer?

Cheers Hasan makes it all a bit clearer now. It also confirms that there are 2 different relays in the system. Can anyone tell me which wires they have coming from the pressure switch(Trinary switch)into the loom? As mine has 2 blues and 2 black/greens and i have no idea which ones they match up to??

Well I replaced the relays with 2 new ones (both with 87A pins) and it stopped the permanent live power to the compressor. Hopefully my battery won't drain now. Checked the wiring colours on the pressure switch to loom but to be honest I notice the colours on Cressa's pressure swith are different so can't match his. But here is what I have orange loom........to blue pressure switch Black/red..............to another blue pressure swith Next connection is yellow/green..........to black/green pressure switch black/green............to black/green pressure switch. I did also notice the fan was not running when I switched the A/c on! thing is doing my head in!

I would like a set too please. Thanks

TBH, i am hoping it works! The mobile Air con guy that came and made a new hose for the system then did the regas left and never tighten one of the hose connections, and i am guessing i would have lost some gas :(. He did say he would come back in and re-gas it if required.

Yeah its these connectors that could be crossed over, if i get time i will check today. Many thanks for your time out taking pics and replying with info Cressa

Thanks, its the wiring to that that i need to check. Maybe its crossed wired and causing the compressor to stay on!

Thanks for that. I just got my system going again and the problem since was the battery was draining in a few hours even when ignition and everything was off. I sussed out that the compressor was continually powered until I pulled both of these relays out! Thus causing me to think one was sticking on. I tried to test them both and for my little electrical knowledge I found them both faulty. I need to check my wires are correctly done going to the dryer as the connections could be the wrong way around. like you I can't find wiring diagrams, as they are missing from the Diavia thread! Where is the evaporator and pressure switch fitted!

Thanks cress. Can you clarify if the bottom one, centre pin is 87A or 87B? top one is clearly a 87A.

On a metallic finished car try and stay away from waxes as they tend to "mute" the metallic sparkle , sealants are the best option as it tends to pull the flake out and make it sparkle more. Also watch when layering up products as although it sounds like you are giving the best protection, many brands and products don't mix too well, thus giving not the best overall finish and it also affects durability as they don't bond correctly. Using a wax over SRP, depending on which wax it is can strip off the fillers initially laid down!Ask yourself this does Autoglym recommend this? Maybe a reason why! It's also a good idea to learn how to apply/remove wax properly, too many people do not understand it's properties and correct application and fail to get the best out of it. Buy a good quality natural wax, cheap waxes tend to leave white residue on seals and plastic trims, natural carnauba wax can be applied to seals and moisturise and protect them at the same time.

As mentioned a good wash. Iron removal http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/auto-finesse-iron-out-cat6.html Clay bar http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/bilt-hamber-auto-clay-medium-cat7.html Polish http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/meguiars-ultimate-compound-cat8.html Although it would be far better to get the car machined polished all the way through the stages from compound to fine finish, i expect you dont have access to a polisher or D/A . Autoglym Super resin polish has is a chemical cleanser with high fillers in it, if you decide to go down that route make sure you seal it as the next time you wash the car the fillers that you previously polished into the car will just be removed. Autoglym sealant.http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sealants/autoglym-extra-gloss-protection/prod_743.html Personally i would go down the route of polish then apply a sealant such as this http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sealants/carlack-sealant-kit/prod_358.html

Wonder if some one with Diavia Air con could check their engine bay relays and tell me which numbers they have and also which slot they are in plz. There are 2 relays in mine and i suspect both are not working right but now i have taken them off i cant remember which was there original position. They are both 5 pin relays, one has a 87A center pin while the other has a 87B center pin. Thanks

Great to see this back on the go again Paul :)

Sorry for the late reply, but after a full day driving about to companies to show them the fittings, which every one of them (Inc pirtek) said no chance, I managed to get a guy who specialises in fitting/repairing air con on tractors and lorry's to come in as he was working local. Made a new hose and re gassed/oiled the system. thanks for your replies and your offer Veedubbed.

It's a 1995 vr6.

I need a replacement house from the air dryer to the lower fitting on my condenser, can you still buy these anywhere? Reader air supplied my new condenser but can't supply hoses.

As said, Autosmart-smart Tardis Tar and glue remover!

My G60 has just done 52K