Bournemouth James

Rear passat handles fit

99% sure i've found the problem, pretty sure its the passenger side inner cv joint, i can woble it from side to side and up and down, loads of play in it

Another useful site:

http://littlespiderdesign.com/vdub/5Lug/

You can buy the custom hubs from:

http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edpd/pag ... Drivetrain

Thats the place i got mine from, i paid a total of £180.66 and thats including delivery and customs charges

As far as i know, you cant use vr6 discs cause they have different offset, more info on this can be found here:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=407866

I have had my discs drilled, and it could'nt be simpler, you use one of the existing holes, and have 4 new holes drilled, just take them to any machine shop and tell them what you want

As far as know its the mk4 golf gearbox with the standard m4 flanges, i think thats why they made cutom drives shafts, does this mean they could be mk4 cv joints?

Its an agu 150bhp gti engine

I have done this conversion

Rears are easy, just buy vr6 discs

Fronts, you can use vr6 front hubs, but your abs rings wont fit unless you drill new holes in the hubs, you cant use vr6 abs rings cause they will sit too far away from the sensors, you will also need vr6 outter cv joints, and you will have to get your 256mm discs drilled to 5 stud and the machine 1mm off the outside edge of the vr6 hub for yours discs to fit over them (vr6 discs wont fit, different offset)

Now for the way i converted the front:

You can buy custom 5 stud hubs from http://www.eurospecsport.com/ then all you need to do is get your discs drilled to 5 stud

Did you use corrado driveshafts on yours?, didnt think they fit either?,

mines got custom drive shafts, this is why im thinking it might be a golf inner one and corrado outter one, not sure thou

Where abouts in dorset do you live then mate?

My passenger side inner cv joint on my corrado 20vt need replacing, dont know if its a mk4 golf one or a corrado one, any ideas?

Or is there any part numbers stamped on them, or any other way of telling?

Maybe its not the bearing then, havent checked cv joints or driveshafts yet

How did you first think that urs were lose did you get any juddering? or any noises? like i have

The hub nuts are fairly new, they were changed when the abs rings were replaced back in february, probably done about 2000 miles since then

I have some juddering seems like its coming from the nearside front wheel, i can feel it through the steering wheel, more so on acceleration, sometimes theres a clunking noise coming from the same place, sometimes when i change gear, or pull away at an angle

I've recentely changed the hubs and did'nt tighten the hub nuts up to 195, which i relised i had to do afterwards, so i've tightend them up as much as i can tighten them and the problem is still there, still only coming from one side though, could running the hub nuts not tightend up properlly knacker the bearing so quickly?, they were brand new when i put them on, or could the problem lie somewhere else, there is no wineing sound, which i thought you got with a bearing if its on its way out

replacing rear 1/4 pannels is bit extreme, most rust spots can be repaired or cut out, and if its not badly dented surely the dent can be pulled out and smoothed over, can you show us a picture?

I would say a grand to replace a rear 1/4 is a good price, its a very involved job

195/40/16 front, 215/35/16 rear, dunlop sp9000's

Thats what i would have if it was me, and i would'nt consider anything else

Majik, can you explain a little more about the difference between arch rolling and arch flaring?, is there a different tool used for each job?, surely if you wanted to flare the arch, the tool would fold the lip up first before it flares the arch?, or do you have to cut the whole lip out first, then just slightely flare the whole arch out with a an arch rolling tool?

some people like the look of stretched tyres and some people dont, i like it, and i think they blend in with the shape of the arch

If he used correct tyres for those width of rims, he would have to run the car so high, that it would look like a 4x4!!

Mine still flash bright red, even with green bulbs.

 

I have a solution though, just don't indicate when there are any police behind you..........and put your old light back on for the MOT.

Yeah, but havent you tinted inpros?, if thats the case, you should be useing yellow bulbs

Kev started the slogan thing so here's mine - front wheels are for steering, rear wheels are for driving.

 

Agreed Steve...although despite the Corrado being FWD, I have yet to drive a RWD car (except the 911) that has the same feedback and feel as the C. 8)

 

Now..I wonder if it's possible to fit a 4 motion setup to a C but drive the rear wheels only?

I've also thought the corrado would been a better car if it had been rwd drive from the factory

But to convert a corrado to rwd, sure it could be done, but not sure it would work, if you know what i mean, as its designed to be fwd,

I cant see why everyone doesent like it, maybe your all comparing it with a normal corrado

yep, still think it looks good

I think it looks quite good, although, i havent seen the front

Another thing, why do people stretch very small tyres over wide wheels so their sidewall is all deformed, surely it can't be safe?

People do it to get more arch clearance, not too sure about the safety asspect of it, allthou in most cases, the tyre is only stretched 1/2 inch more tham the recomended maximum for the tyre

I fitted a pair to my old corrado, they do need shortening, not a very hard job to fit for someone practically minded

Would'nt do it again thou, cause my styling views have changed since then, and it dose require holes being drilled in the sills, which is not good

If you do decide to fit some, dont buy brand new, plenty of breakers will have sets

And when you fit them make sure you use undersill on the holes drilled in the sills, and coat the screws with it aswell

I also may be interested, depending on price