quicky1980

Getting it done at Volkskraft, its just outside Lincoln at Fiskerton. They are VAG specialists and the mechanic has a VR so knows the C well. Don't think I've ever seen you in Lincoln.. don't suppose your going to Stanford Hall are you? Get ourselves a convoy :grin: Cars looking good. you mentioned a convoy to Stanford hall, I'll be going and Im living in Bourne atm which I think isnt quite on the way for you but maybe I can meet you mid journey? do you know anyone else whos going from our areas?

Right, still cant find a replacement oil dipstick and tube. but the engine seems to be using about 1ltr of oil every 400-600miles. No where near to what it should be. Now I'm in a conundrum, do I; Rebuild just the head Rebuild a spare vr over time until this one gives up Replace the whole engine with another one (hopefully healthier) I use the car daily for work so cant have the car off the road for too long, I also want to keep costs to a minimum. Long term wise I do plan to do a 24v engine swap, but that would mean lots of money and having the car off the road too long due to having to fabricate parts. Or are all teh parts now off the shelf ie exhaust amnifolds, wiring loom etc.

let me know what you find out ics costs. I may be tempted to go down this route.

ok thanks guys, was just worried because like i said its in a different container to when I last got some. better to be safe than sorry

I went to GSF an I think they sold me the wrong type of power steering fluid (see below), looks different to what I got last time. My fluid reservoir has a red top to it. I dont want to put the wrong type in and destroy the seals

I need to change mine on a early car, but it looks like the later type rear abs sensor is much cheaper. can this be used instead? they look similar on the pictures in vw spares website.

thanks, not sure what wheels Im going for yet. Thinking split rims and black middle section. But something may come up that takes my fancy. Cost wise, it all depends, mine was supposed to be £2000 but I almost took it to small claims and settled out of court at £1400 if I remember correctly. The hardest part of a respray is finding a good body shop, so many cowboys out there!! Mine was a state before the work so I reckon £1500 to £2000 should give you a good job. any more than that you'll be geting into the show quality level and you wont want to take your car out in the winter etc lol

Heres the car the day after washing it, just before heading off to ultimate dubs. Also fitted brand new 50mm spoiler to the bumper. I think it looks more in line with the shape of the car and doesnt catch on the speed bumps at work. Just got to be more carefull not to hit the sump now I dont have the spoiler pre-warning me. next job, gearbox. LUK clutch arrived today. I got an engine support from screw fix for £35 inc postage the other week so should make it an easier job. I also hope to swap the stering rack at teh same time.

Anyone tried or has this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-VR6-engine-tra ... dZViewItem is it any good?

pm sent. still looking

they are flush if thats what you mean? Im changing the gear box next week so could do with the driveshafts soon

bumpage

Thanks for looking anyway, I didnt think of google, those reults look positive. thanks

Could someone let me know what this part number relates to? 074 906 461 BX Someone at work asked me, should be a maf sensor, but need to check its for a diesel thanks

weekend bump

thanks but i need the metal tube. do the vr's have that plastic piece then? looks like i need that too.

no its not rebuilt, i was silly enough to buy the engine withouth seeing or hearing it run. i have had dozens of problems with it and now this one to ad. Will take a picture this wekend, but it doesnt even bolt to the manifold where it should, Ive have to zip tie it on for now. its not the case of being able to fit a tube to the engine, its a case of finding one. ive built engines before and fitted this one.

i cant drain the oil out untill i replace the dipstick as I may have the right amount as it is but cant tell. No the local garage messed up and Im pretty sure they put in 6 litres in. Its not easy getting the dipstick and tube. smoke has died down a little this week so fingerss crossed

its not bad, just a puff of smoke once in a while. im still hoping its cus there is too much oil in the sump and its hard to say if there is too much or not because im sure the dipstick tube that came with the vr engine isnt the right type. so will be sourcing a replacement soon power is still good, i just dont like seeing a trail of smoke. will see how the next few months go. but i am interested in maybe carrying out a leak test, hopefully this will point to the problem.

how are leak tests carried out? is it something a local garage can do?

if it could be bore wear, can I do a compression test to check? or will this not prove anything. Im having trouble figuring out which route to go ie 12v part rebuild/12v full rebuild or 24v

Thanks guys for your answers. If there is a chance that the bores could be at fault I think I may go for the 24v option. Its not that bad at the moment, but Im not sure if the engine is using any oil because of it. if i can be bothered ill take hte head off and change it but I reckon I'll carry on as planned and have a bigger engine fitted sooner than expected.

that sounds just like the problem. ok, will get on the case of rebuilding a head ready for the old one to come off. thanks

its a vr, with no history on the engine. i think its done less than 100k

It may be down to too much oil in hte engine (not had time to drain it). But what else could cause the engine to give off blue smoke on over run (ie slowing down in gear). It doesnt always happen, but when it does, the engine seems affected and hesitates as it clears the oil out through the combustion chamber. Im thinking the rings may be shot? But Im hoping oil is so high its forcing itself down into the chambers through the valve seats. which is the best way to check oil too? cold engine sat over night, hot engine straight after turning engine off or (which i do) wiat for ten min's after turning hte engine off to give oil chance to flow back into the sump.