Henny

Just take the belt off the charger and turn the charger pulley by hand... if you can feel any lumpyness, then get it off and sent down to G-Werks for a checkup... While the belt's off the charger, you should also be able to spin the water pump and alternator by hand to see if they're lumpy too.... ;)

As I see it, you have two options: 1) Space the calliper to suit the disks you have and then put a spacer in to move the wheel away from the calliper (yes, I know you don't want to do that, but it's what most people have had to do fitting this kind of calliper 2) Space the calliper even further back so they'll clear the wheels, and get some different offset disks (which sit further back from the wheel mounting face) to suit. This will give you the clearance you need on the wheel, and as you're going to have to use spacers on the calliper mounting anyway, seems a logical solution... If you go with option 2, you may have to go with custom disks, in which case you may want to go with seperate bells and disks, which normally has the advantage of being lighter and so reducing unsprung weight... 8) Good luck anyway... :)

what did you get one off just out of interest? 8)

There's a better write up from Hamish himself over on Dubforce... http://www.dubforce.net/forums/index.ph ... opic=12325 He's definitely a skilled person... and this car is going to be a monster... 8)

mine was done by an old school Motor engineer... did it as a favour... no idea who would have the skill or experience to do that anymore... :?

I you really wanna go old school, find an old Seat Ibiza 1500 (circa 1991) and get the dizzy off that... it's a bolt on replacement for the valver one, but is vacuum advanced and can be re-weighted to get the advance curve right for the 16V engine... That's what I ran on my MKI 16V and that made over 150bhp from a standard KR engine with just that dizzy and a Weber Red-line Firebreather throttle body, using the standard K-jet system... 8)

B3 Passat with a 4 cylinder engine (either 8V or 16V) should be the same (G, H, J, K plate years) They're the ones without the front grill... Or any other 4 cylinder Corrado...

I'd have keyed his doors and bonnet and kicked his headlamps in.... :censored: :bad-words: ...but I'm a bit posessive with my 'rado... :roll: :lol:

great links... OK, so off the wall question here for someone who's actually stripped one of these O2S boxes and stuck it into a VR6 casing... Do you reckon that an O2S could be used as a donor to fit into a Rallye gearbox case? Ie, keeping the 4x4 outlet as well as the 6 speed? I really need to learn a bit more about gearboxes :scratch:

so does that mean I've picked the wrong two boxes then having got the two highest? Final drive ratios always confuse the hell outta me... :scratch: :shrug:

don't forget, these are multi fitment, so they'll probably fit something like a Corsa and a Saxo as well as the VW stuff... If you find out what they'll fit, tailor your advert towards the muppet crowd and you'll probably get more money for 'em... ;)

ta for pics... that link is useful too... looks like either of the GQL or GXV boxes would be pretty good in a G60 then... 'specially with an LSD... :D

good point on the lightened flywheel... I reckon that's one of the most overlooked mods on cars these days... makes 'em go through the revs wayyyyy quicker than standard! 8)

do you have a photo of the 6speed box BEFORE you stripped it apart? May be interested in fitting one to my G60, seeing as it used to have VR6 gears in it anyway, this could be the answer to all my gearing issues... :) Also, you mention that the O2S box hasn't got the speedo take-off point? How does it drive the speedo then, and do you think (having dismantled one) that it's modifiable (is that even a real word?!?) to make it drive a standard G60 (same setup as VR6) speedo? Great idea trying it on a VR6 though... Gearboxes have always scared me, but I think I may end up doing my own this time around... 8)

as with all N/A engines... make 'em breath better and you'll get more power out of 'em... ;) Ported, polished and knife edged throttle body (DIY, so time and a dremmel and maybe a gasket or two) Ported and polished inlet manifold (DIY, again, time and a dremmel and maybe a gasket or two) Performance air filter (not too expensive £20 to £100) New injectors (depending on milage, yours may just need cleaning) Better flowing exhaust and manifold (£400 for exhaust, probably the same for the manifold) Better flowing head (anything from £400 for a reasonable one to £1500 for a CNC big valve one that'll scare the pants off you!) Cams (anything from £150 upto £900 depending on make) Remap (really needs to be the last bit done to make sure that the map suits all the engine mods £400ish) As other people have posted, it depends on what you want to achieve and how much you want to spend... the 2.0 8V engine is a good, solid base, but not many people modify them, so parts can be more expensive than other engines, however it should be possible to get some good results out of one if you're willing to put in the work and money... 8) Good luck with it whatever you decide to do... :)

you do know that you can fit the later front fogs and indicators into the early bumper? Seems silly to replace a good bonnet, front wings and bumper to gain nothing more than a few millimetres of width in the arches and over the engine... :cuckoo: Anywho, looks like you've got yourself a little cracker there... I've always been partial to a nugget, but my missus won't let me have one as she has a thing against yellow cars.. :roll: :help: :lol:

the were bigger bolts as the motorsport Rallyes had to use the same basic engine as the road going ones yet they had to be able to deal with seriously silly boost levels and much higher compression... from memory I think they were running around 350bhp! :cuckoo: it's a long story as to why I have a 1H block, and it wasn't by choice... I'm pretty much set on rebuilding the original engine out of the Corrado now so that the engine and chassis numbers all match up again, as well as giving the advantage of being able to get ARP PG bolts for it... 8) Never taking the head off again sounds like a cracking idea CTWG60... just wish it was as easy to do that as it is to type it! :brickwall: :lol:

on a KR valver lump? Easy matey... if you know how to use a torque wrench and follow the instructions, it's exactly the same as the one in a golf, so the haynes [strike:fpso3yeu]book of lies[/strike:fpso3yeu] manual is a pretty good guide... Well, that's how I did my first one in my MKI 16V when I was 19 anyway! :lol: (only I used a Passat Haynes!) Time scale? couple of hours work to get it off if it's the first time you've done one........... ......plus a couple of hours of swearing at bolts that won't come undone or have been put in a stupid place specifically to make you wonder how the hell you're supposed to get them off (mainly exhaust ones!) :grin: Get the head checked for flatness, and while you're in there I'd be very tempted to get the valve guides and seals done... Hell, when I did my first one I pulled the pistons out and did the big end shells, rings and oil pump while I was at it, but that's how I tend to get myself into the troubles I do! :lol: :cuckoo: Putting it back together again is pretty simple, just take your time and make sure that you get everything back on in the right place... I just think of it as one big Meccano set with some vague instructions in the form of a Haynes manual! :scratch: Good luck! 8)

I've asked ARP in the past and they don't do 1H bolts... they've got some similar, but won't guarantee them... I can't remember if the block needed machining to clear the new crank... guess I'll find out when I try and put it all back together again! :) :lol:

I think I'm going to be going PG during my next rebuild... I've had enough trying to get 1H bolts... :brickwall:

I'll keep quiet about the 4 or 5 sets of 1H bolts I've got in my garage..... and the 3 or 4 sets of PG ones too... :roll: :help: Hello, my name is Ian and I'm a head-bolt hoarder... :roll: :lol:

Hang 'em on fishing wire from a set of old pistons to make wind chimes? :D

the red line on my engine was actually LOWER than stock as the power trailed off over 6K, so I got Wayne to set the absolute redline at 6,500 and I never really took it that high anyway... The springs were stock (although new) VAG items... the reason they failed is probably due to being over-compressed by the high-lift cam... The bigger valves are almost exactly the same weight as the stock ones, so I don't think inertia will have had anything to do with it, it was just a case of the wrong springs for the cam... :roll: :epicfail:

Ah, but you can fit late indicators and fogs to an early bumper... (yes, I've just done this to mine...)

MattWilde, just so your thread isn't completely hijack'd... The only company I know of that produces a baffled sump for VW engines is Schrick... as mentioned above, there are a few people offering standard sumps with metal plates welded in, but I couldn't comment on the quality of them... turlock, when you've lobbed lots of time and effort and cash into your engine and intend on thrashing the living hell out of it, especially on corners, that's when you need to think seriously about baffled sumps... uprating the oil cooler should, IMHO, be done as soon as you start to modify an engine... 8) .... and yes, I did plan on attending (and did attend!) some track days with mine where I think that I would end up with oil starvation if I didn't have a baffled sump on mine... ;)