Henny

Nobody? :shrug: Meh... Anyway, I've now had it confirmed that there was nothing wrong with the head gasket or bolts, so I may just stick with standard when I put her back together again... 8)

thanks for this great thread... looks like I now know what I'll be doing to my passenger door this weekend... :brickwall: :lol: :clap:

J-DUB had ABS and I never rated it... H-YYU now has J-DUB's brakes (305mm brembos up front and MKIV rears with Goodridge hoses all around and DOT5.1 fluid) and the brakes felt better, more responsive... I could lock the brakes up if I tried, but I KNOW when they were about to lock up where the ABS on J-DUB used to just kick in with no warning and would affect the feel of the car when it did it being very off-putting... As OSV says, it's not a requirement for the car to have ABS, only that it works if it's fitted... I know that Dubwhizz over on Dubforce.net took it off his Oettinger Golf G60 and found it actually felt better and was more predictable too... Horses for courses I suppose... :shrug:

yup, that's not surprising... the G60 ECU expects higher octane fuel than standard unleaded, so it's always running a little "lean" (for want of a better term!) when running on normal unleaded... Sticking a higher RON fuel in makes the engine pink less meaning the ECU doesn't have to retard the ignition as much, meaning more power and a better, more efficient burn resulting in a cooler running engine... (phew, that sentence was a bit long! :grin: ) I always used to run mine on Optimax (shows how long it is since it ran... :roll: :oops: ) as it wasn't anywhere near as good, or gave anywhere near as many MPG when running on straight unleaded...

granted but it is effectively recirculated back into the intake system so it's on tap. Anyway,thnks for the reply. :salute: I see your point about it being on tap, but with it being a supercharger, you won't actually gain anything by slinging the boost back around into the charger again, it just ends up pressurising the boost return pipe slightly as most of the restriction will be there... with a Turbo setup, yes, I could see it would be an advantage as you'd have pressurised boost pipes to get over the turbos lag, but with a supercharger, the difference is going to be as near as damn it negligible... I still run with a boost return fitted... I played with the idea of a second inlet and having the boost return fed into a catch tank and then into the bottom of a second airbox to silence it a bit, as I seem to remember John Mitchell did this on his 16VG60 Corrado waaaayyyy back when (only one airbox, but had the boost return fed into the bottom of it), but I decided that I'm not on the hunt for every last BHP I can get out of the engine, I'd rather it lasted a little longer... :)

The positives are that you don't dump hot oily gas into the atmosphere which the manufacturers want to avoid so they can get their car through the environmental tests and limits they have to, and that it lubricates the charger, although this is more of a helpful after-thought than a planned design.... The G60 engine ALWAYS bleeds off boost unless you've got your throttle nailed down to the floor... however, venting boost to atmosphere is frowned upon (if not illegal) on a new vehicle, hence the boost return pipe...

nope, motorbike engine! Clicky!

In chronological order: 1: Porsche 356 (either coupe or speedster, I'm not fussy!) - achingly beautiful car and the start of the whole Porsche dynasty... :) 2: 1965 AC Cobra 427 S/C - well, just because... any car that can hold the world production 0-60 record for as many years as it did and just look sooooo damned sexy at the same time gets my vote, oh, and it's also my favorite car of all time... 8) just think, this car is 44 years old and can do 0-60 mph in 4.5seconds and a Quarter mile in 12.5 - AS STANDARD!!! :eek: :cuckoo: 3: MKI Golf GTI Oettinger 16S - A factory optioned 16V MKI Golf GTI... 4: Corrado G60 - 'cos I don't want a VR6... :lol: 5: Westfield Megabusa - looks like a kit car, feels like a kit car, handles like a go-kart, goes like an exocet missile! :lol: 6: Bowler Wildcat - just in case I want to go off-roading.... at speed! :lol: :cuckoo: :norty: 7: Ferrari 355 Spider - I fell in love with this car when I drove one in anger (admittedly, not a spider) around Silverstone... I think this is when I finally got what the whole thing about Ferrari is all about.... 8) :notworthy: I'd have the spider though as I think it's slightly better looking... 8) 8: Tesla Roadster - the environmentally friendly car in my list... (don't get me started, I realise that it's actually going to create just as much CO2 as a normal car, just not at it's exhaust, at the power station instead, but these green loonies don't realise that and it's a damned nice car anyway! :lol: ) 9: Aston Martin Vanquish '09 - beautiful and powerful... 8) 10: Audi RS4 Estate - This would be my daily driver... it's a limo, no, it's a load lugger, no, it's a 500bhp supercar... no, it's ALL 3! :lol:

does the 2.0 16V have a knock sensor? sounds to me like a knock sensor that's on its way out, but having not owned a 2.0 16V, I wouldn't stake much on that... :shrug:

Right, I'm after an uprated head gasket and an uprated head bolt and rod bolt set for my G60... anyone got any recommendations, both on which parts to get and suppliers? I was thinking of ARP bolts, but are there any other makes out there that are as good, or even better? :shrug:

woah... freaky! :lol:

MFA reading is probably either the pipe having come off the back of the clocks (or where it attaches to the throttle body as described above) or the sensor on the back of the clocks has gone faulty, but I've never heard of one of these going wrong...

meh, if you're not taking the engine out in a carpark, using just a pair of breeze blocks and a trolley jack, it's not using enough muscle power and is taking the easy route IMHO... :lol: :norty: Seriously though, get some more pics up, this all sounds like a great project... 8)

heat implies that the engine has been running for some time and therefore that there's been current running through the ignition switch for some time too... Which is how they break down in the first place as the switch is simply not good enough for the current draw it has through it... ;) May be worth checking for the sake of £20ish though, don't you think? I think I know what my problem was/is with my g60... waiting on another opinion this weekend from a mate who's a mechanic by trade... ;)

ignition switch?

how did I manage to guess you'd be the first to answer mate? :roll: :lol: I'll just PM you in future before posting questions! :lol: ;) :norty: Seriously though, I'd also heard that you can get more advance out of an LPG'd G60 (think Darren told me that waaaaayyyy back when....), but I've yet to see one done... I've seen a few VR6s and valvers done, but never a G60... If I did it, the full size spare would be binned and a tank put in there...

as per the title... I'm considering getting rid of my 'ssat, and putting the money into an LPG conversion for my 'rado (obviously when I've got it running again!)... Has anyone on here got any experience of putting an LPG conversion onto a Corrado G60, or even a G60 that's anywhere near as modded as mine is (252BHP)? :shrug: Or am I just living in a pipe dream again?!? :nuts:

just a point that some people may not know... if you've knocked the mirror off the windscreen completely (ie, there's just flat glass with a bit of glue left where it used to be!) then sticking the mirror back on can be a real PITA due to the weight and trying to hold it in place while the tape/glue sets... However, (this is the bit that some people don't realise!) the mirrors are designed to come off the screen leaving behind a small metal mount that's normally bonded to the screen... Get the bit out of the mirror, (it twists out IIRC) and use the mirror fixing glass glue from Haulfrauds and some tape to attach it to the windscreen again... leave it to set for a few days, then you can simply just put the mirror back onto the proper mount again...;) 8)

if it was the coil, it wouldn't just be doing it on only 1 and 2 as the coil supplies all 4 plugs in the same way... nice thought though... 8)

doesn't sound like it's "dropped a valve" then.... that's when the head comes off the valve and falls into the cylinder... you know when that happens as it tends to embed itself into the piston and head and sounds like there's someone with a jack-hammer in your engine bay.... Time to take the head off and have a good look...

blimey.... :eek: Shiney... 8) :lol:

...or just a bigger throttle body to get more air into the inlet manifold... I know the Audi100 one used to be used as an upgrade on MKI golf GTIs... wonder if someone found an upgrade for the valver?!?

hey, if I can't find what's wrong, then I'll hang the engine, not me! 20VT time at that point... ;) :lol: There's enough money in that engine in parts to pretty much pay for a 20VT engine these days, and I can do the swap myself... ;)

Just out of interest what will you go for next if it passes? :roll: PG block with new standard pistons, standard crank, my spare standard head and the standard ECU chip I have kicking about + a for sale advert... ;) :lol: Seriously though, at that point, if I've not found anything wrong with the bottom end when I rotate the pistons, I think it's probably gonna be a thicker single piece metal headgasket to drop the CR slightly and eliminate any chance of it blowing through the layers of a standard G60 head gasket... :? Then stick it all back together again to see if it runs or not... If not, then it's rethink time, if it does, then it's sorted... :)

under 5mm you shouldn't need hubcentric as the hub center sticks into the wheel further than that and should still center the wheel... My Borbet Cs clear my Brembos by around 1.5mm with the custom 11mm spacers I had made... and yes, I use longer bolts! general rule of thumb is that if you have as much thread sticking out the back of the wheel + spacer as the thickness of the bolt then you should be fine with the bolts.... if not, I'd advise longer bolts... ;) As long as the wheel turns and doesn't touch the caliper when it's all on tight, then it should be fine... if your wheel/bearing is flexing enough for the wheel to hit a caliper while you're driving it, you have bigger problems! Personally, I like around a 2mm clearance so any gravel kicked up doesn't scratch the paint on the wheel and caliper... ;) :lol: