Henny

just to add... parts for the KR engine are nice'n'cheap.... I seem to remember that I spent about £300 in total on the parts and the head work when I did my valver refresh, and that was about 11 years ago!

it's only the glass and the glass surround that's different on the headlights between the two different types... you can swap late lenses onto early lights to make them late spec as long as you also have the black plastic surrounds too... ;)

if the valve seals have gone, the valve guides probably aren't far behind, so replacing the seals will just result in a temporary fix until the guides give up, closely followed by the piston rings! :? Personally, (and this is what I did to my first Corrado which was a 16V!) I'd rebuild it... take the head off and send it to a machine shop to sort the guides and seals and give it a quick skim, get hold of a bore hohning kit and re-ring the pistons and re-hohn the bores... change the big end shells and oil pump while you're in there, and it'll all be happy for another 100K miles or so! 8)

it'll miss it out if it doesn't get a reading from the sensor... the wiring or the sensor is probably faulty...

the in tank pump also seals up the tank (it's a BIIIGGG hole in the top of the tank!) and acts as the pick up pipe to the bottom of the tank.... As far as I can see the only way to do it would to be replace the pump with another pump... :?

rust... Tailgate rusts badly behind the number plate (normally due to muppets using BIG screws to hold on number plates!), around the bottom corners of the window and around where the gas struts attach. Windscreen frame bottom corners rust badly behind the rubbers Rear panel around the towing eye (especially under Big Bumper models) Sills Wheel arches (under the plastic extensions) Other than that, it's the standard stuff... Engines should be free-revving and largely noise free (no knocks or rattles) 'cos the KR engines are largely bomb-proof... The interiors wear on the seat edges, but are normally well put together and simple to fix/replace... Suspension is basically the same as the 'rado, so pretty easy to work on. Power steering models are better, but steering should be reasonably light either way (I test drove one once which made my arms hurt just doing a single 3point turn, something was desperately wrong with it! :? ) Check panel gaps are straight (you may be able to fall into them as they ain't small, but they should be straight! :lol: ) Check the seams on the rear panel are straight and parallel (if not, it's probably been rear ended) Check the spare wheel well and boot floor for rust, dents, creases etc... Check the engine bay inner wings and structural members for creases etc... Most importantly, if something doesn't feel right, as with buying any car, walk away... 8)

compare the power delivery of a VR6 (190bhp as standard) with a modded G60 giving a similar 190bhp... The G60 will feel like it accelerates faster and delivers more of a punch with the power... however, in reality, the VR6 will accelerate just as quickly, just in a more relaxed manner which makes it feel slower, even though it really isn't....

the GPS only ones are about to be taken off insurance lists for giving you a discount... :eek: People nicking cars have realised that it's very easy to buy a cheap, small transmitter that swamps the GPS signal and stops things like the Trakker systems from working... :? There have actually been quite a few cases recently where thieves have actually been targeting cars they KNOW have tracking systems on them as they haven't been left as secured as some of the ones that don't have trackers on... the owners aren't worried about them being nicked as they've got a tracking device, but the thieves aren't worried about being tracked, as they just turn on their transmitter which stops the tracker finding out where it is... :( If you're going to get one, make sure it's got GSM in it too (bascially a mobile phone!) as that's much, much harder to jam...

there's at least 3 support bars across the non-sunroof roof-skin on the inside, so it's not just a simple sheet of metal.... If you're going to do it, get a Webasto roof... by far the best ragtops out there....

disconnect the plug from the coil pack, or the king lead from the dizzy (depending on which it has) much healthier than pulling relays out of fuse boxes... 8)

it started having problems around the 18th and has been up and down every now and then since... I think the admins are aware and will fix it when they get chance... there's a thread in the forum over there about it.... :wink:

I sat in mine for the first time in about 18 months the other day... I really need to get my ass in gear and buy/build a new engine/gearbox for her... Still love it to bits... 8)

swap the connectors for the blue and black temp sensors over to rule out the blue temp sensor being the problem...

Yes... :study: (although the wiring is an utter pig...)

Yes, Jay Wrenshaw did it ages ago with a 24V V6, TT dash, wiring, firewall etc...

I've had a go at the clutch on just about all the cars I've owned and a few of my mates cars too... By and large, it's a gearbox out job, and, as stated above, a clutch alignment tool to line it all up again before putting the clutch back on... some cars (like the M plate Astra I briefly had) had an inspection plate for the clutch, so changing the clutch was a case of undoing the end plate of the gearbox, pulling the input shaft out a bit and then the old clutch would fall out... nice'n'easy! Is there a Haynes [strike:gcq1ltnt]book of lies[/strike:gcq1ltnt] manual available for the Aygo yet? They normally give a pretty good guide to how to change the clutch... 8) *edit* no Haynes for the Aygo yet... but the Toyota forums (don't ask, the in-laws have a Starlet...) say that there's an on-line one HERE once you register on the site... 8)

ALL VR6s are late bodied, and share the same slam panel... early ones are different, so are those for the late 16V and 8V cars...

you'd be better with a parachute or an ejector seat! ;) :lol:

I'm pretty certain the later ones were Flash red, if it's not a metallic...

the doors will fit, and you can fit your door cards to the later doors with no modifications... although you may have to swap the plastic fittings over from your doors, but that's not exactly difficult! The late front wings are slightly wider at the arch, (more flared) but otherwise will fit... they'll just make your wheels look like they're another 5 to 10mm deeper into the arch!

[strike:2sohg55v]that looks like a late body car, not a 91... has it had a front end on it at some point?[/strike:2sohg55v] ignore that comment, it's not easy to tell from that photo, but I just spotted the multi-slat grill and the swage line on the bumper that doesn't fade out.... Anyway, Inca Blue isn't a pearl like you described, so I'd say it's most likely Aqua blue, as it's not dark enough for Midnight but difficult to tell from that photo...

post up a pic... we'll probably be able to tell you what colour it is from a photo and knowing what year the car is... ;)

time to ditch the ABS? :norty:

As far as I remember, it's also on the orange bar-coded panel on the inside of the right hand (uk drivers side) inner wing, just behind the air-box...

Always wise words! :lol: