Henny

yup, they're on a bayonet kind of fitting, so a pair of long nosed pliers will grip 'em enough (the plastic back bit!) to get 'em out... Anyone got a photo of the back to show what I'm on about please?

yup, just got confirmation that the guy has run the car for a couple of hours with my dizzy and it's been fine... right upto redline and at idle... that's everything electrical ruled out, so time to strip the head and get it tested... :shrug:

depends how lucky/unlucky you are... best case? new valve, headgasket set and slight headwork to sort it all out... worst? damage to the cylinder and piston causing the block to be scrap and having damaged the head too badly to be repaired causing the head to be scrap... :eek: when it dropped the valve, what sort of RPM was the engine doing and how long has it been run/attempted to be run since it did it? High revs + many tries at restarting = heading towards worst case... idle + no attempts at restarting = best case... Either way, good luck with it... 8)

I hate to say it, but I will anyway... :lol: :wave: Ignition switch failure?

Gotta strip it down to get it pressure tested... it's still got both manifolds on it, phenoloic (sp?!?) gasket, oil feed to the charger, the cam etc... attached! I may be able to see something once I get these off, but if not, then it'll be sent off to be checked for flatness and pressure tested... Thanks for the recommendation though, I'll give 'em a bell and see what they say... 8)

well, I've sent the dizzy off to a member of Dubforce who is trying it in their G60 for me... and it seems to be working in there engine so far with no problems.... :brickwall: 'tain't that then.... :( Time to strip the head down and see if I can find anything wrong with it then.... :shrug:

clicky for full story...

wish list? well, mine's got one item on it... find out why it won't run so I can fix it... :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: think I'd just about done everything else to it before it stopped running properly... :norty:

it's a doddle... the bulbs are replaceable without even having to open up the cluster... you do need to remove it, and it sounds like you were only a few moments away from getting it out from your description of getting it close before... the rubber vacuum hose is tight, give it a bit of a twist and prise it from its end and it will come off, don't forget that it's probably not been disturbed for 18years, so the rubber will have bonded itself to the plastic nipple slightly... The wiring connections are nice and easy to undo too once you can get at them to see... Drop the steering wheel down to it's lowest setting and you should be able to get the cluster out without having to remove the steering wheel too... 8) Oh, and the bulbs are cheap from VW... ;)

legal requirement is one on the drivers side of the vehicle + one other, either centre (windscreen mount styleee) or passenger side mirror must be fitted... My G60 went through a thorough MOT without the centre mirror after I knocked it off as both the other mirrors were fine... 8)

Could have been Lippy's valver that was stolen and burnt out last year... Dunno where it ended up, but it's not uncommon for cars to take ages in a holding yard before they end up being taken off for scrap... :?

to be fair, Junkie is spot on here... the fronts are the important ones, not the rears... think about it, the rear brakes have a bias valve to actually make them work LESS when the car is not loaded up at the rear! What's the point in sticking bigger brakes on the back when they're already being limited as standard! :scratch: The brembo 305mm 4 pot kit is fecking awesome... you can pretty much stand the car on it's nose (end-o styleeeee... :eek: ) if you're brave enough and have grippy enough tyres... Saved my last G60 from being a full on head-on crash to just being a glancing blow anywho...

on the inlet manifold, it's a very good idea to get some heat reflecting tape and completely coat the underside of the manifold... you won't see it from inside the engine bay, but it'll drop the inlet manifold temps something rotten helping you keep power instead of suffering from heatsoak of the inlet manifold... ;) I've done the last 2 inlet manifolds I've had for my G60 and it means that the top of the inlet is only warm to the touch after a good thrashing (140mph at Bruntingthorpe anyone?!?) rather than being hot enough to cook on like it used to be... ;) I used this stuff on mine... 8) Oh, and as per the original question, powder coat the inlet, ceramic coat the exhaust... :)

the standard hand brake was crap from new... My first Corrado rolled down my parents drive, through our wheelie bin and fence, over the road and up the drive of the people who live opposite one day as I was sat eating my tea.... My dad thought I'd not put the brake on properly, but it had just cooled a little after an "enthusiastic" drive home ;) and let go enough to let it roll down the hill... :eek: MKIV rear brakes are deffo a good cure, and new hand brake cables will certainly help too... 8)

they'll be the oil temp sensor (smaller one) and the two oil pressure switches (larger ones) You need to note the colour of the larger sensors above the large brass nut shaped bit, as this signifies the pressure the switch activates at and lets you know which is which... 8) *edit* found some old pics to help... 8)

my bet is that it's something to do with the deadlocking function that was on the later cars (but not the very early valvers IIRC...)

wasn't there a seriously lightened, blackbird engined RWD MKI too which was stupidly quick 0-60? Seem to remember seeing it at the last Ed38 I went to.... From memory, that was in the 2.5 second range for 0-60... :eek: *EDIT* close, it was a Hayabusa TURBO engined RWD MKI Golf... :eek: :cuckoo: [youtube:2mcq85h7]3Xdks-j3yt0[/youtube:2mcq85h7][youtube:2mcq85h7]fUH8S5wvK0M[/youtube:2mcq85h7]

yup, another vote for Bill here too.... really nice guy, knows his stuff and DRIVES his cars like they were meant to be driven... He was taking the p!$$ outta me at Curborough a few years ago 'cos my brembos were nice and shiney red... he pointed at his and said "that's what they should look like... means it's been driven properly... :lol: " his were kind of a browny orange colour with very off white lettering due to the heat he'd put through 'em through thrashing the nuts off his car! :lol: 8)

I may just print those pics out and show them to my G60 as inspiration to it to stop messing me about and start running properly again... ;) :lol:

the heatshield that is actually attached to the exhaust? Stick a BIG jubilee clip around the whole thing... stops the rattle and dead simple to do... 8)

my G60 is silent.... then again, it's not run for 2.5 years... :epicfail: :nuts: Seriously though, I spent a long time on it making the interior rattle and creak free before she stopped running... not sure why I bothered though as the induction noise from her, and the noise from the toothed pulley system is LOUD! When I was at Curborough with it, the "sound/fun police" turned up with his sound meter and started checking peoples exhausts weren't too loud... I laughed at him 'cos it's not the exhaust out the back that's loud on my car, it's the induction and belt noise from the front! :lol: :grin:

there's your problem then... the water made the aux belts loose grip on the pulley for the alternator and the PS pump (the two hardest to turn pulleys) so you lost charging power and power steering... Check the condition of your belts and the tightness of 'em too... At least it's a simple one to fix... 8)

if you're just honing the block, you shouldn't need bigger rings, just new ones... 8) The arrow on the piston should, as you say, point towards the pulley end of the engine, but if they're pistons out of a different engine (like mine are) then is doesn't really matter which way around they go as long as they clear and have the quench zone in the right place (which it appears mine may not have...) I'm learning a lot today... this has really got my juices going again to get this thing running once more... 8) :notworthy: :notworthy: *edit* bugger, beaten to it! :lol: At least we agreed on this! :lol: :wink:

The crank in my engine has standard G60 rods attached to it, with standard G60 bearings (well, ok, they're actually MKIII TDI bearings as they're harder wearing, but you get the idea! :lol:) sounds like it's still a mystery then! :lol: :shrug: I was told it's a standard VAG crank, but I still am not sure what it's out of... I do know someone who has just had a 1940cc 16V G60 built by the same company though, so the crank is definately not a one off... :shrug: LOL, sorry... will keep an eye on your thread too... :lol: :lol: :lol:

Blimey, those pistons DO look very much like the ones in my engine... :eek: I'll check the part number on the box (Mahle) that I've got at home tonight and see if it tallies up... I'll be surprised if it does though... Don't suppose you know of a crank that's the same spacing/bearing as a G60 one but has a 89.6mm throw do you? That'd answer the final mystery of my bottom end... :lol: