Henny

only the VR6 slam panel is unsuitable due to the off side radiator mounting point being wrong for the 4 cylinder models... Front bumper will have been an early one, so anything after '92 will not be the same, although they will fit. Crossmember and rad support panel are the same on all Corrados...

tooooooo tallllllll.... (unless you're a right short person...) :|

Betcha it's the motor in the ISV... ;)

not me... not got an xbox...

they never made 'em for the 16V engine... ;) You need a MKI one for the 16V engines... 8) Glad someone got one on (at last!) to prove what I said about them being utterly nuts and the best thing you can do to a valver! :D 8) I never thought about fitting it upside down... that makes a whole lot of sense! Good thinking! :notworthy: 8)

I never got around to doing it... Basically you need to remove the grey/blue wire in the main connector and put in an ignition live instead. You'll then need to disconnect the other illumination (across the top) from the main circuit board (it's on a 2 pin connector) and connect that to the grey/blue wire and an earth so that you can vary the brightness of the top bulbs. This does mean, however, that you can't change the brightness of the LCD illumination... DISCLAIMER! I'm not sure if it IS the grey/white wire on a Corrado, but I'm pretty certain it is. Check with a multimeter before modifying any of you wiring to check that the voltage on the wire at the multiplug changes with the lights on as you move the brightness control! 8) WIRE IS ACTUALLY GREY WITH A BLUE TRACE. Post edited to reflect this... 8)

there's a test mode in the secret settings on the MFA for the speed sensor. It's a counter which just counts up as the wheels turn...

oh, and to answer the puck bit of your question. A normal clutch has a friction PLATE (IE a complete disk) A Platter clutch has "arms" (for want of a better word) with the friction material on the end of 'em... 4 in a four puck, 6 in a six puck. The main problem with this style of clutch is that it tends to be either ON or OFF, there's no (or very little) points where it'll slip, which means that you can't just hold it on the clutch on a hill, and hill starts get fecking annoying at all times and traffic just becomes a nightmare...

Good to hear mate! 8)

wait 'til march and I'll show you a video of a G60 pulling 0-60 in sub 6 seconds! ;) 8) (with a seconds clock in view! ;) )

250bhp isn't really gonna tax a VR's clutch too much... they're good for about 280bhp IIRC. Paddle clutch will probably last a little longer but would make the car a real bitch to drive on the street... Oh, and a VR clutch is cheaper than a G60 clutch and is gonna be a whole shed load cheaper than a paddle one! ;)

could be your lambda sensor or your blue temp sensor... Change the blue water temp sensor first as these are nice and cheap (about £10 inc. seal) and can be changed in under 60 seconds when the engine is cold... 8)

ta flusted, that's the bunny I was thinking of... 8)

yup, mine was the same... 8)

rev counter could be a dodgy wire onto the coil... have a look around the coil area to see if there's a wire broken/slipped off... Otherwise it could well be a knackered clock or possibly a loose/damaged wire somewhere behind the clocks... Yes, the MFA is run off a vacuum hose the same as the golf... so probably a damaged hose or it's fallen off at one end or the other... :| Welcome to The Forum... 8) Nice looking motor you got there, what are the wheels? 8)

oh, easier than I thought then... 8)

I take it you're bored today? :lol: Not drawn by me, found it on Google...

it's a plug and play jobbie... Nice and simple. Unplug the old one, undo the bolts holding it into the gearbox (2x 10mm headed bolts IIRC) remove (carefully!) the old one and replace with the new one... 8) I've not done one of the electronic ones before, but I have a feeling you may have to change the drive gear over from the old unit to the new one... can anyone confirm this?

humm... That seems to be a good price... 8) I need to have a chat with you about toothed belts to see if you can get them cheap too... 8) I'll dig out the part numbers I've got when I get home tomorrow... 8)

ah! Cool and very clever.... Anyone fitted one? (the exhaust, not the shrek! ;) :-P )

tafkadm, depends on what the 138BHP is in... Stick it in a Motorbike and you'll happily get a 3 second 0-60! :lol:

ah, Thanks! I forgot about the VR6 head having different length tracks inside the head... :oops: So the shrick and that exhaust manifold take this into account and even them all up then by having exact unequal lengths to give a total equal lenght on all inlets and outlets, which should give extra torque? :? *edit* just read that back to myself and it confused me! :oops: What I mean is: Is that manifold (and the shrick) made so that their unequal lengths give a TOTAL length (including the head's tracks) for each track which IS equal in length?

porting is when you enlarge the ports (the bits wot let air in and out of the head) and shape them for maximum flow and least resistance to the gasses. It can be done at home with some good results... If you use the search there's a link somewhere on this forum to a site which has detailed instructions on what to do, how to do it, and what to do it with... 8) I've ported things before with a Dremmel and a flexy extension for it... 8)

oh, you may have me there... it may be on one of the air guitar albums... :roll: :lol: :oops:

kevhaywire, don't you mean EQUAL length runners?!?