Henny

Yup, I had this in my local (to work) Halfords the other day. He was dead pushy and would't leave me alone, but he soon shut up when I waved £500 in twentys under his nose and shouted at him "why the f$@# would I want to give a company who employs annoying assholes like you any business when I have perfectly good CASH?!?" :twisted: :lol: I'd just like to point out that I don't normally behave like this, but this guy caught me on a bad day and just wouldn't leave me alone even though I told him I wasn't interested 3 or 4 times politely first... :mad: oh, and I was on my way to the bank, I don't normally walk about with that kinda cash in my pocket! :lol:

Ah, the Anglesey circuit! Been around it on a Pro-Kart! 8) It's pretty narrow and has some good twisty bits, so you may not be as outclassed as you think as handling has a lot to do with speed around that circuit! ;) 8) Track details HERE

Isn't the 320iS the 4cylinder 16V 2 litre version with a slightly hotter than normal engine? :?

think this is about the Oulton Park session... ;)

now that's a lotta lights! :lol: 8) Cheers once again Tempest! I can't wait to get my hands on these! 8)

either way from the top hose should be fine... the problem with filling from the expansion tank is that it will fill from the middle, not top/bottom of the coolant system so you enhance the chances of getting airlocks... ;) The water will get hotter faster than the oil when it's not pressurised... G60 Jet look at the diameter of that pipe compared to the diameter of the pipe you're putting the water in through and you'll see precisely why you get air locks filling it up from the tank... ;) With the top hose off the rad, you have the same size pipe to let the air out which helps stop airlocks... ;)

Get a good, full service done a week or so before so that you can work out if it's using any water/oil before hand and sort it. Make sure EVERYTHING is in tip-top condition especially tyres, brakes and cooling system. TAKE IT EASY for your first few laps and gradually build up to going faster as you get to know the track... being the first to crash isn't seen as cool! :lol:

oooh, propellerheads... 8) now that's one I've not listened to in AGES... :| *goes to look at HDD to see if it's on there*

I have a BHP limit on my car too... It's currently set at 255BHP (50% up on standard) That's how the insurance companies work out just how much of a nutter you are! ;) :lol: I know what you're saying about proving it though... I really am going to have to get this one onto a rolling road both before and after fitting the engine I built for J-DUB into her so that I can prove the differences... ;) 8)

It could well be the wiring onto the clocks... Check the connector is on fully and the wires aren't snagged on anything... ;)

The more I play with this stereo, the more I want to recommend it to other people! 8) It's revolutionised how I listen to music in my car, I've over 4000 tracks on it already! Oh, and it now pops up the following logo on startup and shutdown! :lol: 8)

I'm not sure what I use... It's one of my dad's old waxes which hasn't got a lable on the tin anymore... :| Any good wax will do the job, you just want it to put a nice layer of protection on so that the road and brake crud can just be washed off... 8)

yes.

just nicely tight is about right, rather then VFT or VT... ;) :lol:

ask someone to look up the gearbox code on Etka... that'll tell you the exact ratios used in it which you can then compare to a Corrado VR6 box's... ;) 8)

I've got the Seat ones under a set of 16" Borbet Cs with 11mm spacers... there's not a lot of clearance between the inside of the rim and the edge of the caliper, so little in fact that it removed half of one of the stick on wheel weights! :| :crazyeyes: Wheel choice is critical when choosing big brakes... ;)

it's riveted in... you need to drill out the rivets to get it out, and then re-rivet it when you put it back in again.... Apparently a bit of a git of a job... :|

you should always fill the coolant system from the top hose or you are VERY likely to get an air lock in the radiator or block. Anyway, change the blue and black sensors (will cost less than £30 from GSF and will probably sort out the temp gauge problem) and change the fan switch (big brass one on the radiator) just to make sure your fan will come on when it gets to temperature... ;) Did you have the cap off the tank while you tried to run it up to temp? If you did, then that's part of your problem. The system NEEDS to be under pressure, as this ups the boiling point of the coolant and means that it won't boil. That's part of the reason you get problems with overheating due to a leak, it can't pressurise properly and so the boiling point drops screwing up the coolant efficiency.... :| You may also want to change the coolant tank (use a Genuine one as the ones from GSF and Euro are utter crap) and coolant tank cap too so you can rule those out of the equation too...

rover and vauxhall used to use 4x100 Most other VWs use either 4 or 5 x100, so odds are that if it's a VW and it's got 4 bolts, it's 4x100... exclude the air-cooled stuff - old beetles etc as they had something silly like 4x205 on the older ones and 4x130 on the more recent ones... :|

thumbs up to Woody for the speedy delivery of the interior light 8) And ANOTHER thanks to Gavin for YET ANOTHER headlamp loom... :roll: :lol:

I really like that Golf Ad... Nicely done too... 8) Oh, and did someone mention the Citroen advert? ;) *Blatently nicked off B3TA*

oooh, that's NIIIICCCCEEEEE..... 8)

That depends on the age of the Golf... early 16V ones had the same smaller bunch'o'bananananananas that the Corrado had... ;) :-P :lol: Thanks for the compliment too... 8) :oops: I'm not infallible though... :? blackcat16v, Yeah, the starter motor is probably compatible, as is the flywheel and probably clutch, but would you really want to fit a second hand clutch?!? I could be wrong about the alternator, but I'm pretty sure the mounting points mean that the 8V one can't be used on a 16V engine. I had to source one for my MKI 16V when I built that and as I had a good 8V alternator kicking around at the time, I can't think of a reason I would have done that if I could have fitted the 8V one... :|

nope, that's just a trim in the middle (the grill's missing off my new G60's one... :| )

Phat? Is there any point in using the lower final drive ratio on a G60 box which you're fitting with VR6 1st and 2nd gears? Correct me if I'm wrong (I could well be! ;) ) but the reason we put the VR6 2nd gear into the G60 box is because the G60's second gear is WAY too short. Wouldn't sticking in a VR6 2nd and then a lower final drive mean that you're back to square one with a crap 2nd gear, but also now with all the other gears being way shorter too? :| [schild=18 fontcolor=000000 shadowcolor=C0C0C0 shieldshadow=1]My Brain Hurts![/schild]