Henny

Is yours a US spec car? The US ones don't have working L2 lamps, which is why they're always after Euro spec ones... ;) If it's not that, then it could be several things... This is how the UK spec lights SHOULD work... 8) Ignition OFF, light switch to first click -> Sidelight bulbs only in L1[/*:m:6e844] Ignition ON, Light switch to first click -> Sidelight and dim dip headlights in L1[/*:m:6e844] Ignition ON, light switch to second click, no blue light on dashboard -> Dipped headlight bulbs lit in L1[/*:m:6e844] Ignition ON, Light switch to second click, Blue light on dashboard -> MAIN BEAM - bulbs in L1 and L2 lit[/*:m:6e844] To turn the main beam on, pull the indicator stalk towards you until you hear it click, the blue light on the dash should light up. To turn it off, pull it until the click again (it's a toggle switch) Dim dip is where the dipped bulbs are lit Via a big resistor (on the inner LHF wing - Yellow multiplug with 2 wires) so that they only get about 6V. It's supposed to be a safety thing, but I've never really seen the point in them... ;)

golfg60, it could do...

mayo = mayonaisse... ;) I normally describe it as kinda cappachino looking... kinda brown and frothy looking... that's the sign you have water in your oil... If you look into the engine bay, there's a bottle in the rear right corner (looking in from the front of the car). That's the expansion tank where the coolant is topped up from. There's a MIN / MAX marker on the side of that and you should be able to see your coolant between those two markers (you may need to rock the car to see the level sloshing about and make out where it is.) If you have a water leak, it DOES NOT always mean that you are going to blow a head gasket. (In fact, it IS possible to blow a head gasket without loosing ANY coolant! :| ) A coolant leak can be from anywhere on the coolant system, from one of the rubber pipes or plastic flanges through to a dodgy radiator or waterpump. It is a good idea to get it sorted ASAP though so that you don't over heat the engine which may well cause the head gasket to blow... :| Waterleaks tend to leave a "snail trail" around the points where the leaks are (the antifreeze makes a coloured mark where it's leaked and evaporated off) so they're normally pretty easy to locate if they're big enough to be a major problem... ;) Which engine has the Corrado you are going to look at got in it? Let us know and I'm sure some people will put up some pics of the common leak points so you can have a good look when you go to view it... 8)

replace it... :? sounds like it's catching on a worn shaft or worn drive gear to me... :|

his parents had confiscated his games console, so he stole the keys and some money and was going down to the shops to buy a replacement one... :| Full story here

That is correct, 1 gold star for Coxy :wink: Bugger, was just about to write that.... :| :roll:

ah, man, that sucks in a major way! :( :cry: Glad you're OK (other than the sore neck) though... 8)

sticking in brighter bulbs won't help unless you've uprated the wiring loom... As Neil says, PM Gavin (H100VW) about a loom and you'll be amazed by the difference it makes! 8) The loom is a doddle to fit and should take less than 30 mins... I'll lock this thread up seeing as this has been discussed lots in other threads... 8)

yup, rear bias valves often stick... soak the bugger in WD40, leave it overnight and then "assist" it in freeing off with the aid of a hammer.... ;) :lol: A full set of Goodridge braided hoses will work out similar price to a full set of VAG flexy hoses and will improve the feel of the brakes. Make up the fixed hoses as Gav suggests.... Did this on my MKII Driver when it failed it's MOT and saved myself nearly £300! 8)

bend a cheap watch makers screwdriver slightly... ;)

RACE POWER MOTORSPORT: 01322 386677 Unit 8, Rod End Estate, Northfleet Industrial Developement Lower Rd Northfleet Kent. DA11 9SN http://www.racepowermotorsport.com E-mail: mailto:[email protected] (ain't google brilliant! ;) )

8) It's something I'll be doing in the near future...

You and me both matey! I also smeared a little silicone grease along the seals before fitting 'em too... 8) I've got a set of In-pro and a set of FK rear lights on my G60s and neither of them have steamed up.

yup, Race power are excellent! 8) Also have a word with 16VG60 (John from JMRacing) on this very forum... he can get 'em done too and they're top notch (got all my kit done by a combination of 16VG60 and Race Power.... 8) )

yup, one on the filter head and one on the side of the cylinder head where the oil feed to the charger comes off... I wonder if you crushed something inside the filter by overtightening it which has clogged up the oilways through the filter? :?

oh, and the best place to get a rad is from either GSF or Euro... You'll find that you need to buy the plastic top pipe (The right angled bit wot bolts onto the rad and connects to the top hose) and its seal from VW as neither GSF or Euro list 'em...

One of the classic signs of a dead ignition switch is the pump relay going mad while cranking the engine over as the switch fails/makes the contacts it's supposed to... ;) Stick the car onto stage 2 of the ignition (ignition lights on) and put a wire between the solenoid's +ve connection and the battery (MAKE SURE THE CAR IS NOT IN GEAR!) This'll fire the starter motor as long as you hold the wire onto the battery. If it fires up doing this, then you need to spend £20 and 30 mins fitting a new switch. 8) If it doesn't, then it's something else... :|

broken wire or dodgy earth? Check for power at the bulbs and trace back from there... ;) Usual breakage points are by the bootlid hinges ;)

OK, standard leak points are by the door hinges (the pipes run through the rubber cable runs with the speaker cables and 'leccy window/mirror power cables.) There's a joint up by the glove box (that's where my leak was). Joints at the actual actuators (the bits wot move the locks) are also weak spots. The pipe which runs into the boot is also prone to breaking as it goes through the rubber bit near the boot hinge. If you've had a smack on the driver's side quarter, that's where the pump lives. I'd start off by taking the carpet out from that area to find the pump and the actuator for the fuel filler cap as that's the area that's most likely to have been disrupted by your bump... ;)

You have a leak in one of the pipes for the central locking which is causing the pump to run longer than it should. Check along the pipes to find the leak, and then seal it up. 8)

I just remembered, you may find that actually getting it off from behind the cam pully is a bit tricky... Stick with it, it will come off the studs and come out, but you may end up swearing at it first! ;) :lol:

Sebring is a quality make... VERY expensive new... :| No idea how loud it'll be though...

Nope, don't copperslip it... I just put a thin smear of grease on the gasket to ensure it seals properly.... 8)

it's not a pig of a job, but you do need to undo the pipes and 2 support brackets which connect from the rocker cover to the inlet manifold. It's do-able in about 25mins with no major hassles... Just have a load of jubilee clips handy to replace the original hose clamps which you'll have to take off... 8) Why do you want to take it off?

did you change the oil pump? Could be that it's taking it's time to get up to pressure due to being a little on the weak side... Also, what grade/type of oil are you using?