Henny

you may have to re-program the alarm to recognise the fobs... depends on what the alarm is as to how you do this... :)

they're normally surface mount, bi-colour LEDs which have 2 contacts on 'em (put voltage through one way, they go green, the other way to go orange) They're about 3mm long by 1mm wide (and about 0.5mm tall!) so to say they're a little fiddly to do would be an understatement! :| It is possible (I used to do 'em in Mobile phones) but you may find that the labour bill will hurt a lot... :| You may find it cheaper to buy a new face for your head unit if it's a face off one... 8) Lemme know if it is and I'll dig out the contact I've got for new face plates... 8)

DB cartrim in Blackpool are VERY good and reasonably priced... 8) Pics and contact details HERE

the place which changed your rear disks either hasn't put the ABS cages back on, or hasn't replaced them with new ones. This means that they will not be spinning with the disks properly so the ABS brain doesn't know how fast the wheel is spinning and so puts up a fault light. Take it back and tell them to sort it if you got it done at a garage. ;) You may have to buy some new cages (the bit which sits on the back of the disk) but they're only £10 per side... 8)

Glad I could help... 8)

StuartFZR400, H-YYU gets oil temps between 90 and 116 depending where she's being run (free running at 60mph = around 90, sat in traffic = 116) The water temp sits between 80 and 110 in the same conditions. Before I put in a new rad on H-YYU (it had a BIG leak!) she'd get upto about 120 water and I saw her at 124 oil temp once... that's when I decided I REALLY needed to sort the leak out! ;) :lol: J-DUB got oil temps of between 80 and 106, with water between 80 and 100 'cos of the big oil cooler and over-the-top aftermarket radiator fan I'd fitted to her... ;) :twisted: I'm expecting the same temps when I drop this engine into H-YYU... ;) 8)

it's also worth checking the oil breather on the front of the block... these sometimes clog up and then leak oil. It's the big block on the front of the engine with a rubber pipe which runs over to the bottom of the airbox.

you should really use the proper VW G60 oil filter because it's got a non-return valve in it... ;)

these U bends were also fitted to the NON-air-con Golf G60s too... (that's where mine came from! ;) ) IIRC, There's 4 major bits you need with it. 1) The U bend 2) The gasket 3) A smaller support bar (replaces the black support bar which bolts between the charger and the block which won't fit anymore due to the U bend being in the way) 4) The 2 bolts. One which bolts straight throught the Ubend and into the charger outlet, the other which holds the support bar on.

riley, what a fantastic photo! Where did you find that? 8)

yup... it's the same casting, just with the holes and seats for the head bolts enlarged slightly... valve size, seats, seals, guides, gaskets etc etc etc are all identical... just those holes and seats that differ... ;)

none of those temps are particularly high for either water or oil if you're sat in traffic... The fact that the temp dropped when you turned on your heater shows that the whole system is working properly as the heater basically acts as a second radiator cooling the coolant while heating the interior of the car... 8) I normally open my window and shove the heater on flat out if I'm stuck in traffic to keep the engine a little cooler just 'cos it's a habbit I picked up which can't hurt the car and may even help her last a little longer... 8)

DO NOT USE PAS FLUID OR ENGINE OIL IN YOUR GEARBOX! This will result in a rather large and expensive bill for a new gearbox as it will kill it... :| Use a good quality gear oil (like Redline MT) in your gearbox and it'll be as good as it can be...

Supercharged, the clue is the bit where he says "I cannot find the C spanners"... kinda implies that he's lost 'em... :roll:

Throttle body isn't bad to do... there's LOADS you can take off where the pipe attaches though to enlarge it... I was shocked when I compared my flowed one to a non-flowed one! :| Inlet manifold doesn't really need a huge amount doing to it... just match it to the gaskets and smooth off the internal cast marks and it'll be good... 8)

it's the block that dictates which head bolts to use as it's the block which has the threads in it... ;) If it's a PG block, use the G60 bolts... If it's a 1H block, use the Rallye bolts... Head gaskets are the same for all G60 engined cars.... 8)

I wish I'd have known that little thing about the bolt seats this time last year though... :| Would have saved me a fair old chunk of cash... :roll: I think the Rallye head may also be slightly better ported from the factory than the G60 head, although this may just be a rumour... 8)

pretty much, yup... The holes for the head bolts are slightly larger as are the seats for the headbolt washers, but other than that, they're the same... 8)

A mate of mine at Uni used to delight in turning peoples exhaust emissions funny colours... He also used to be able to turn peoples pee pretty much any colour you liked too... He was a very talented (and often bored) Chemistry student and was a bit weird like that... :lol: I've always wondered what would happen if you went in for an MOT with your car giving out BRIGHT ORANGE smoke from the exhaust... :lol: :twisted:

kevhaywire, I like your thinking... ;) 8) :twisted:

paddyg, It could be, or it could be running rich... what does the smoke look like, smell like and feel like? Puff of Blue smoke after revving hard = burning oil from head on over-run[/*:m:c2abd] Constant Blue smoke while revving hard = burning oil from piston rings[/*:m:c2abd] White smoke with no smell = cold engine - Normal[/*:m:c2abd] White smoke with funny chemical smell and possible greasy feel to it = Coolant - possible head gasket problems[/*:m:c2abd] Black smoke while revving hard = over fuelling[/*:m:c2abd] Black smoke after revving hard = slight overfuel on over-run - relatively normal[/*:m:c2abd] Any other colour smoke and someone's been playing silly buggers! ;) :lol: Note: this list is NOT definitive, but should give you a good idea what's going on... 8)

I think I may build a re-enforced steel spike into the back and sides of J-DUB when I rebuild her so that any witless prat who runs into me will end up as a kebab... ;) :twisted:

OK, another quick test. With the key nowhere near the car and all the lights off, pull the indicator stalk towards you... the main beam should come on along with the blue light on the dash. If the lights don't work, but the blue light comes on, you have a fault AFTER the relay. (so wiring, fuses or bulbs) If nothing lights up, you probably have a fault BEFORE the relay, so either the switch itself, or the relay... 8)

Right... here's a quick piccy... 8) this is a golf's engine, so will be very slightly different to a Corrado, but it'll give you a good start on where to look... 8) 1 - Front plastic water flange + oil cooler pipes - Look for leaks, splits and snail trails[/*:m:ec10e] 2 - Side plastic water flange - Look for the same as above[/*:m:ec10e] 3 - Top hose + radiator top adaptor - again, leaks, splits and trails[/*:m:ec10e] 4 - Expansion tank, pipes, and cap - again, leaks and splits, but take the cap off and have a look at the rubber seal to check it's not kinked, rotten or cracked.[/*:m:ec10e] 5 - Pressure release valves (these are the ones that were fitted as a recall to stop the heater matrix exploding...) - Look for snail trails again, it's possible that the heater matrix could be leaking, so check the passenger footwell isn't damp and doesn't smell of antifreeze... [/*:m:ec10e] 6 - metal waterpipe - These corrode (especially on this corner) and leak. - Look for snail trials and rust.[/*:m:ec10e] 7 - (not shown) Radiator - this'll be fairly obvious if it's got a hole in it as it will leak quite quickly, especially when warmed up. - Snail trails will give this one away pretty quickly[/*:m:ec10e] 8 - (not shown) Radiator fan switch - It's a big brass nut looking thing down by the battery. These sometimes leak if over or under tightened...[/*:m:ec10e] Hope this helps... 8)

Ford, I used to top mine up daily - but I had a BIG hole in the radiator! :oops: :lol: I normally check it weekly now, but it's not changed level at all for 2 weeks, and I fully don't expect it to change at all until I get another leak... 8) In a perfectly healthy engine, you shouldn't have to top the water up at all... How much did you have to top it up? A little bit of leakage isn't anything to be mega worried about and will probably be something simple like a tiny water leak on one of the 10 year old+ plastic flanges or rubber hose joints... Have a good look around the engine for "snail trails" to make sure there's nothing obvious... If you're worried, just keep a close eye on it until you work out what's going on... paddyg, a 1.8 16V engine? Right, hang on a mo... ;)