Henny

could be MAF, could also be a dodgy throttle switch/throttle position potentiometer, or the ISV being sticky... Clean the ISV, check the throttle switch/potentiometer is working properly (will probably need VAG-COM on a VR6) and check (also with VAG-COM) for any MAF related errors...

give the ISV a clean... that's normally the cause of this on most valvers I've come across... (ISV = Idle stabilisation valve, nothing to do with the timing... ;) )

hoping to see a running engine on the rollers that'll produce some more power than standard! ;) Other than that, anything over 250bhp I'll be happy with, anything closer to 300 and I'll be extatic! ;) I'm guessing that the torque figure/graph should be pretty good, bearing in mind that last time I ran it, Vince said it was THE best G60 outputs he'd ever seen... :D :D :D /non-committal

that's how mine looked a couple of weeks ago...

Silverstone does this kinda thng... I've just done a supercar experience (Lotus Exige, Porsche 911 Carrera2 and Ferrari 355) which was superbly well organised and excellent fun, and may be doing their rally day next year...

yup... the Shrick sump holds more oil than a standard sump,(about another litre IIRC) and has baffles to stop the oil slopping to one side during high speed cornering (not that I'd do that on the public roads, honest ossifer)... it's also finned underneith so should help with cooling slightly... Oh, and it also looks nice too! :lol: The windage tray stops the crank from frothing up the oil as it spins through it at high revs... I drove her properly on Sunday, after setting the timing up a bit better... still didn't take her over 3.5K or half throttle, but she's definately a bit lively! :D She's booked in at Chipwizards next tuesday to get mapped... and then off down to Stealth that Sunday to show some of you people what she'll do... 8) I SOOOO can't wait... oh, and I may have got my arse in gear and put the dashboard back in by then too... :oops: :lol:

Right, update time again... She's up and running once more... only 4.5 months after the head gasket finally let go... :oops: :roll: She's now got a helicoil in the headbolt hole for bolt 10, which should solve the problems with the head gasket weaping I now suspect I've had since I got this engine... :mad: She started up beautifully this morning and I drove her around the block, although the timing's a mile out, she went like a scalded cat! :twisted: Turns out that my CO pot had packed in which caused a delay in getting her running for the last couple of weeks while I worked out WTF was going on with it... :roll: :lol: Current spec: 1940cc 1H block: 83mm bore using G60 rods, Customised Mahle pistons and balanced VW crank (can't remember what it's out of) giving compression ratio of 9.5:1 Fully balanced and lightened bottom end (there's less than 1gram total difference over all 4 pistons!) including lightened flywheel G-Werks/CNC Heads Big valve, CNC ported, polished head and inlet manifold G-Werks/PSD Custom Newman cam to suit head (somewhat high lift - head needed modding to clear the cam! :twisted: ) Kent Cams vernier cam pulley Heat treatment tape'd inlet manifold with G-Werks spacer gasket (phenoloic or something like that which I can't remember or spell! :lol: ) Ford Motorsport (US) Red top injectors Bosch/Porsche 3.5bar FPR G-Werks Stage4 charger JMR 69.1mm toothed pulley kit Modded standard airbox with K&N panel filter and direct air feed through carbon cannister hole 13row Mocal oil cooler in place of original Corrado intercooler - Original heat exchanger removed and MKI golf pipes used to delete. Golf G60 intercooler with BAR-TEK silicone and ali pipework Silicone vacuum hoses Pacet rad fan on standard Corrado G60 radiator wired to go full speed on first stage of rad switch and over-run Gasket matched and ported exhaust manifold, throttle body, charger outlet and inlet manifold. JMR/Milltek hi-flow downpipe heat wrapped and mated to Miltek exhaust system. Schrick baffled sump with windage tray. Corrado VR6 SACHS clutch Stealth Racing rebuilt G60 gearbox with Quaife ATB and VR6 1st, 2nd and reverse gears. I'm sure there's more, but I can't remember it all... :lol: Soon to come: Remap (again :cuckoo: ) for new head/cam + other tweaks Boost return deletion involving catch can and silencer box Second inlet to charger (if tests prove it's worth the hassle) which'll involve re-locating the battery Water injection (2 stage) I'll post up some pics when I get chance to take some, and when she's actually looking good enough to take photos of... :oops: :lol:

feck, Just seen this thread Sam, not good mate... :( Hope you get it all sorted soon... 8)

and agreed again... Although upping the C/R on a G60 isn't always a bad thing if you're planning on more power and a custom re-map anyway... ;) :twisted: If not though, be careful how much they need to skim it... 8)

yup, mine came out on a bread tray (kinda like a steel skateboard, or a cut down shopping trolley frame) all on my lonesome when I first did it, although I had a mate to help when I did it again, but that was 'cos it was in a car-park and not in my nice level garage! :lol: :twisted: Full front end off is DEFINATELY the easiest way of doing it, and if you're sneaky like me, you can remove the P/S pump from the engine first and then just hook the lower front panel over to one side so you don't have to drain the P/S system! ;) :lol:

you may also find that if you disconnect the multi-plug for the lambda that the metal terminals in the bit wot connects to the car's loom are somewhat crappy... clean 'em up and you may find it solves your problems... ;) (took me fecking FAR too much farting about before I sussed this on mine! :oops: )

get the car up to temp, (over 50degrees oil and reading on the water gauge) disconnect the blue temp sensor and rev 3 times to over 3K rpm... allow the car to idle again... adjust the idle screw to get the idle to where you want it (should be around 950rpm IIRC) and then rev to over 3K 3 times allowing the engine to drop to idle each time. Re-adjust again as needed. Reconnect the blue temp sensor and your idle should stay the same and be re-set... 8)

use the search luke... ;) clicky!

take the end off the gearbox and count the teeth on the 5th gear cog... :| Is your speedo accurate? They do vary a lot you know... ;)

markp, cool, if you changed the lambda, then that's one thing off the list... check the wiring though, as you may find that you've a dead wire from it which'll cause the ECU to still think it's faulty... Blue temp sensor death CAN cause over-fuelling if it fails showing the engine is cold (basically, the engine is running on "choke" all the time) Good luck!

Guys, don't forget that wheel and tyre combinations will also effect final drive ratios. ;) If you're running standard 15" wheels with standard spec tyres, at 80mph your engine will be revving slightly higher than if your car has a set of aftermarket 17" wheels with non-standard tyre widths as the rolling radius will be slightly larger on the larger wheels... ;) Also, there are a couple of different final drive ratios which were used in G60 boxes over the production run... 5th gear CAN be changed without taking the gearbox out pretty easily (this is one of the next jobs on my list...) Engine modifications CAN NOT alter gear ratios or what speed you do at what revs in which gear. The engine's crankshaft is STILL directly connected to the clutch and therefore the gearbox no matter what you do to the rest of the engine, so 1 revolution of the crankshaft will still turn the gearbox input shaft 1 revolution... ;)

SOME of the body panels were galvanised, but not all... ;) Check CAREFULLY around the windscreen for rust under the seal caused by a windscreen replacement muppet not taking enough care... :|

I get better fuel economy than that out of my somewhat none-standard engine, so there's something not right there markp If your REAL MPG is that low, check that your vacuum hoses aren't leaking, that you don't have a burst boost hose, and check that your Lambda probe is working... My bet would be on a dead lambda probe which is making the car over-fuel horribly... I'd bet that your plugs are black if you take 'em out and look at 'em due to running very rich... ;)

1) yup, normally with ACDC or similar blaring out ... ;) :twisted: 2) Damn right... leather cleans very easily... :D

guys, just a quick one to point out... as soon as you change the ECU chip on a G60 you mess up the MPG setting on the MFA... This is because the MFA relies on a vacuum/boost feed from the engine to know how hard the engine is working at whatever speed it is you're doing... as soon as you change the fuelling of the engine by changing the ECU settings, the MFA's lookup table for how much fuel is used at what boost/vacuum point becomes inaccurate and the display will show inaccurate results... The ONLY way to accurately work out your MPG on a chip'd G60 is to fill the tank to the brim, run the car making note of the milage when you filled up and then refill at the same pump and work it out from there... :|

don't forget to mention the "insurance ombudsman" when you phone to complain about their crap offer... The paperwork and man-hours that getting themselves involved going through proceedings with them costs a fortune, so they often back down once you threaten 'em that way as it's cheaper to pay you off then to deal with the paperwork! ;)

'snot me... mine's H719YYU... Welcome to the forum though MARLBORO_LITE

Ta H8RRA, one will be with me in around 3 days... 8)

*has silly thoughts about J-DUB...* :twisted:

Supercharged, since when? :crazyeyes: I'm supposed to be towing my G60 home this week and I've only got a rope... :|