Petros

Got this solved finally - it was a loose ground connection from the ecu. Well hidden so took a good while to find. Thanks for the help and suggestions! Now I can return to getting my VR back on the road :-) Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Cheers, I'll give that a try, and hunt down johnny if it's ok! Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Thanks Ben. I'd considered that having read similar issues from a few people transplanting a 20v into a mk1 or mk2. I had discounted it because: 1. The entire loom, including all relays, fuses, sensors, etc. is standard factory fit and hasn't been removed (it's not a conversion, just a modified car with a fault), 2. Vagcom seems to hold its connection during cranking. I'd expect a comms error if the ecu was losing power. I'm far from certain on that last point though, as I've never seen an ecu cutting out to know exactly what symptoms to expect. Any simple conclusive checks I could do? Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Corridor lol. That'd be Corrado auto corrected! Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Hi folks, got a strange problem with a 1.8 20v turbo. Full disclosure, it isn't in my Corridor, it's in a mk1 Leon. I'm posting here cos it's generally a helpful place and I know a bunch of you have done 20v conversions and hence know their electrics rather well. Plus I've still got my VR so I figure it's allowed :-) Long story short - engine cranks over fine but never starts. No spark and fuel pump isn't running so it's as if the ecu doesn't realise it's being asked to start. Using vag com to read the measuring blocks shows no engine speed signal (G28) while cranking. Changed crank sensor and replaced ECU. Still no signal. Anyone know how to test the wiring from ecu to crank sensor? Or have any suggestions of other tests to try? Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Had a bit of a tussle with a DB9 a few months back. Think I must've been in the wrong gear or summat, cos he seemed to pull away a little :roll:

I know this might be taking things a little too far... but it would be ideal if the soft limiter could be linked to the oil temperature, so you can't exceed 3krpms until your engine is safely warmed. I'd deffo buy one of those! That said, I'll probably buy one of the standard shift lights anyway, just as soon as I've got a few other repairs out of the way.

I always thought the R in R32 (etc.) indicated that it was a VR6 engine, so my guess would be it's based on the 15deg single block design, but given that it will have been marketing (rather than engineering) that will pick the model names that might no longer hold true. Isn't there an R36 Golf planned too? If so, that would suggest it's a VR as you'd be hard pushed to safely fit a 'normal' 2 block V6.

Hiya, Welcome to the forum. The knowledge base (link at the top right, below the search) has details of all the engine options and their claimed fuel consumption. There's also a good buyers guide with tips of what to look for and avoid. Best buying tip is probably to look in the for-sale section of the forum. Buying a 2nd hand car is always risky, but if the former owner is a like-minded enthusiast then I reckon you're likely to be safer. I get around 360 miles for £55 in my VR on average, more if I'm on longer motorway trips. If you're always driving with your foot to the floor (as you will be for the first few weeks :-) )then expect a few less miles! Happy hunting!

Sorry to hear about the accident, glad you're more-or-less ok though. When you say do you mean you're dizzy and your head feels like its spinning? If so, and if it's been a few hours since the accident, I'd pop into my local A&E if I were you. I've heard some bad stories about garages that offer to handle your entire claim for you. I think this thread might be enough to put you off that route, BTJ used one of these types of places, and it wasn't plain sailing.

Hey folks, the UK gov't have recently set up a new web site for hosting e-petitions. The general idea is for members of the public to create online petitions on topics that bother them. Other folks then 'sign' the petition online and the results get sent to No 10 or which ever department is most appropriate. While I don't think it'll make much difference, to be honest, some enterprising individual has created a petition to have the Motorway speed limits increased. You can sign here if you agree. And if you're less cynical than me, and think someone might actually listen, spread the word! 8)

Where did they mount the blue light? :lol:

Yes, that was me. Yeah, got it sorted at a garage in the end - the car had to go in for some work I couldn't do myself, so got the scanning done at the same time. The offer was appreciated anyway! :-)

I've nothin planned for that weekend, so yeah, I'll try to come along. Would be good to meet more of the folk from here face-to-face. I take it you'll be there?

Any more details on that? Or a link? Doh! Just found this. Probably should've looked before hitting post...

I've reently moved from Glasgow to Hamilton. I see a few others around, but usually when I'm not in mine, so no-one sees me :-(

In my experience, yes, it could well be the fuel level. I've seen it happen with a new petrol car designed in 1998. However, given the age of the vehicle, I'd still get the fuel pumps checked. It could be that the car isn't that badly designed (I'd like to think VW have better designers than Vauxhall :smile:) and it's just struggling because one or both pumps aren't working very efficiently.

I asked this in this a different thread the other day. According to dr_mat, who certainly sounds like he knows his stuff:

Nice clean layout, and tasteful colours. However, the main table element seems to be a fixed width. This always bugs me, web pages should scale to whatever the browser window width is set to. I know maintaining cross browser support can get a bit trickier, but using relative widths (i.e. in percentages as opposed to pixels) in the element tags should help the site look better regardless of your user's monitor size and screen resolution. Looks great on the whole though!

The MAF sits just upstream from the throttle body on the air intake. It's the black box that the air pipe passes through, with an electrical connector plugged into the top of it. It measures the volume of air flowing into the engine, and reports it to the ECU to help it get the air/fuel ratio and ignition timing correct.

Is there a test to check whether a MAF sensor is working well or not? At the risk of sounding tight, it isn't a cheap part so I don't fancy replacing one that might be ok!

A VX Astra I had before the rado would have problems starting on even slight slopes if the fuel was below the 1/4 tank marker... seems the intake pipe for the fuel pump was sited too near the front of the tank and on a slope the fuel ran to the back of the tank and out of its reach. Any corelation between it not starting and the fuel level?

Don't sell, you'll regret it! Their labour estimate seems a bit high to me... is it a specialist garage? Could be they're quoting high cos they don't know the car, and hence can't easily estimate how long it'll all take. See this thread http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=47541&highlight= for some thoughts on whether a stamped service book is worth all that. And get someone to run VAG-COM to trace the ABS fault - that way you'll not have to pay the garage for diagnosis time.

Exactly, you're likely much safer buying a car from an enthusiast than from some middle-aged 'footballer's wife' who doesn't even know how to check their screen wash/tyre pressures :roll:

If I was buying a car and: - there was evidence of self-servicing, - the seller seemed to know what they were talking about technically, - there were recepits for the parts claimed to have been used in the service, I wouldn't be put off. There are enough monkeys employed by main dealers these days that a VW stamp in the book wouldn't mean much to me (especially for older cars like the C, that most of the younger techs will rarely have worked on). But that's just my opinion...