Rams

Scum exists and will always continue to exist. Last time I had some builders round and he left his phone on his seat with his window down half way. After speaking to the neighbour she said there was 2 guys hanging around with a football shirt, green and white stripe. Went for a drive, me, the polish body building muscle man, you know, the ones that eat 10 eggs a day! Plus the builder, an x football hooligan and actually found the guy just round the corner. Put it this way, once he had seen the van and us he legged it and the builder swiped his feet whilst chasing him and he went flying into the ground and was.... Punished shall we say! He had sold the phone on for a fix! So there are sometime happier endings, but can't the police do some house to house enquiries in particular the scumbag place? Or try and trick them again leaving something of value and be ready for them this time? I.e an iPad box or an empty box/wallet with nothing in and follow where they go? May have got carried away but I know how frustrating it can be and often think of ways to try and catch the buggers out!

Hi Abdul In the end I removed the sub and took your advise. Changed the in line fuse to 60 amp, just left the comps connected through the amp and the protection light stopped blinking. I am now on the look out for a decent amp and it will give me time to cover the mdf floor. Heres how the sub was connected, in terms of how it was sent with the wires already bridged. Cheers Rams

Seems like its correct, will re check filters etc. Just checked back through what the sub is, its a JL-Audio-10W6v2-D4. Looking at the sub more closely, there are quite a few terminals there, if your here tom Abdul, will get some pics up. Will nip to halfords and upgrade the fuse to 60 amp and remove the sub and generally re check. Thanks again

Nice one! I will text this through to my friends who was here earlier and will tackle it tomorrow morning. Great help buddy.

They were already linked up on the sub from new. Theres a wire linking them and I have attached on the connections that push in to crimp the speaker wire. I was sort of asking if I need to remove the bridged links incase that alters the ohms? Main concern is not being able to fade properly, the cross overs are supposed to do their thing, the sub is fed by the sw out on the headunit, the crossovers on the front outs on the headunit. Sub to amp, crossovers amped and tweeters direct to crossovers. The amped speaker wires connect to the crossovers and bridged. Its quite tricky to describe but will take some pics and post tom if that helps people see what im trying to do. Cheers bud.

I have insalled 2 new rca leads and used my original rca leads and tried them all. They dont have a seperate earth. Good quality rca leads aswell.Tried connecting one set at a time, with one set coming from the comps, the red protection light didnt come on, plug the sub rca leads in and the flicker begins on the amp protection led. Im wondering if its an amp issue or wiring or both? My friend said its all wired up correctly but he was a bit rusty to it all but following the instructions they look correct. The 4 ohms part, this was mentioned before in a previous post when I was looking to buy what I have now and there seemed to be diffent thoughts on the 4 ohms wiring and 2 ohms. I have the speaker wires in the nomal connection on the sub and think those connections are bridged as standard. Might remove the sub and double check or maybe I need to remove the bridged links from the sub? does that make it 2 ohms?

I was hoping you might reply mate... You have a much better idea than me with ICE. I have 4 gauge power and earth Alpine ida x305s headunit Rainbow slc 265 NG comps 6.5 inch JL Audio g4500 amp 4 channel JL Sub 10/w4 i think I think my main inline fuse from battery is 20 amp but might change that as researching has said it should be 50 amp. I have earth the wire to the spare wheel well securing thread at the bottom to the body. Scrapped some paint away and the amp does turn on no problem. I cant seem to reduce the base through the comps, if I fade to rear, i dont get the distortion but I cant crank the volume up. The more fade to front makes it louder but more disortion. I have tried lots of ways in wiring them up, when I used just one set of rca leads and bridged the speaker wires it sounded good but the comps were flashing when the volume was high but no distortion really but music coming out of the sub which we thought would be fixed with he second set of rca's. I havent measured currents etc, will do that tomorrow but could a lower inline fuse be an issue? I read if you have big thick wire it can over power amps, not sure how true that is and other mentions of the inline fuse chucking too mu voltage?> You ask about the sub being 4 ohms, how would I tell? The amp is 80 w rms, 500 w

The protection light is blinking on my JL Audio g4500 4 channel amp. Take out the rca leads and the light goes out. I seem to have base coming through the components/tweeters and thought the cross overs fix this but they are not. I am running a JL Audio sub 10 inch and the comps from the one amp. I have 2 sets of rca leads from the sub out and front out to the amp. Brudges the sub into channel 1 and the comps into 3 and 4. Either way I have tried things I seem to hear a bit of voice sound through the sub. It distorts if the fade is in the centre, put it to the front and turn volume up and it distorts... Something doesnt seem quite right. A friend of mine with better knowledge than me popped round but couldnt work it out. We checked the wiring on the cross overs and all is fine. Originally I had 1 set of rca linked up and it sounded good but the crossover lights were flashing and still had voice coming from the sub. My friend suggested we install another set of leaks for more control but it just doesnt sound right. The amp is really hot, barely touch it hot and the protection light is blinking, even when gains are very low etc. I have a 20 amp inline fuse direct from batter and wondered if maybe I need to put a larger fuse into it? Any help on this would be great otherwise, I might have to take it somewhere for them to have a look or to see if any of my items are faulty? Cheers Rams

Just bought one from Pat - a new one. Thanks for your reply though... Cheers Rams

Did wonder if a bit of heat and some grips would do the trick.... Since I spotted it I have been leaving it in gear. Just wonder what other people have encountered..... I will measure the gap again and see if this has something to do with the different MK4 models? Or if there are different cables to suit. Would rather not replace the cables as they are brand new... Cheers for your reply

It fixes on the inner wing, mine is too short and the small holes on the braket where it fixes means the resovoir it to a slant. Need a bracket so the bottle sits vertical in the recess of the washer bottle. Can take a pic if it helps... Cheers

fingers crossed. Cheers for heads up

Right..... Went back to the painter today as he re painted the driver side last week but I am still not happy with it. Tiny tiny dimples/bubbles on the door and a defect in the rear panel. So, its going back for the 4th time and all will be re done. It's just a bummer that the car will be off the road again but I just cant stand paying out all that money and for it not to be right. The painter has said he will re do it and wanted me to be happy so I am pleased with his response. He's a decent guy and as long as the problems are rectified I will be happy in the end. Just wished I had taken it to one company from start to finish so blame could not be placed with the previous guy. You live and learn but I was worried incase he was going to refuse but I was decent enough with him as I could have got rattled about it but that never solves a problem, usually makes it worse. Probably going back in around 3 / 4 weeks time and hopefully for not too long. He's got a back log of cars to do but last time he had the car for a month. He damaged the door rubber aswell where it tucks in under the mirror plastic housing. For some reason, I cant get the plastic lug to snap in on the bottom. It was a new one as well. Today driving back, put the window down and as I made it go back up, the rubber lifted with it. It's truly fudged now so will just try and re bend the inside till it goes back for paint and can fit a new one after. I also found sanding marks in the lacquer on the otherside which will be sorted also. Then hopefully the paint will be 100%! On a positive note, the last few days of boming around have been great, rear brake shield fitted yesterday and brakes fully bled.

I am after a rear quarter glass unit, in good condition please

Bump it up

Fitted my new brake shields today and the handbrake cable caught my attention. It looks like it could pull out of the holder. I searched for similar issues and found a post about this gap being 4mm but the ones he had were 8mm.... For the guys that have done the mk4 rear brak upgrade, have you got close up pics of this area? This is how mine looks like. I could have something made to offer more security but the last thing I want is for the handbrake to let go as it could cause an accident.

Is there a definative - connecting the existing wiring found behind the dash centre console and the wire near the oil filter housing for these gauges? The others that ordered their sender from Merlin, what did you order as he asked me, '' do I need a 0.9 or 1.3 bar sender and what that equated to roughly in PSI.

Classy looking C! I also like the balck sunroof switch, where did you get this from? Would like to change mine

Welcome to an excellent forum, if you think rough milleage is 10 - 12 k a year, the aged of your car I would say its definately sensible. Quite a few on here have swapped autos for manuals and have felt an improvement on performace but a personal choice at the end of the day. Never driven an auto vr myself to comment. Rams

What pressure should the dual pole sender be? I ve got ordered the connector block and wiring from TPS and contacted Merlin and need to know at what point the buzzer should sound. They do 0.9 bar and a 1.3. Does anyone know what this should be so I can complete the parts required to fit them? Cheers Rams

A wash and wax, boot floor mounted, ice install semi done, door cards fitted and new comps. Ordered new screws and picked up new rear brake shields. pic outside tps

ordered them all today ta

Seemed to have put them somehwere a little too safe as I cant bloddy find them! Also need the handle screws please Cheers Rams

Smart looking machine you've got there. The pics after the wash and wax show how nice the paint is. Might catch you at the up and coming events, promised myself to allocate time this year to get to them.

Great results Jay, Glad its given you more motivation, nice to see how this little baby is coming along