Lizard Racing

Out of interest does anyone have a diesel 5th gear fitted to their O2A box? I am interested to know if the engine gets bogged down at such low revs.

If I was doing mine again I would definately go the R32 route and then add the Rotrex obviously :lol:

I do drive mine every day and its mostly town driving, however on the way home from Storm (110miles) I used less than half a tank. Thinking of running either a 0.681 or 0.717 fifth gear set up though.

With my Rotrex setup I am making 370 BHP @ JUST 3941 RPM and thats the maximum Storms rollers could measure so its well over 400 BHP maybe even 450 BHP who nows. The downside is the economy or lack of and also the cost involved getting this sort of power.

The Emerald was initially set up by Dave at Emerald using a base map from a VRT. I am not running a wideband set up only standard narrow band. Andy used a map from another car of a similar spec and modified it to run safely. Poor MPG comes with having all those ponies and is something I came to terms with many years ago! I only see boost when I need to and certainly not at idle thankfully.

Thanks, Im really pleased with the map and the way the car runs. Its taken 9 months or so to get it all together, but it performs better than I had hoped. Andy and Miles have been soo helpful offering advice and the things they can do takes some believing!

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/runin.htm

Safest yes, but is it the best?

Its a bit untidy at present though.

Copied and pasted :wink:

No Vin does know what he is doing 100% but stealth like any business has to have some safety margin to ensure that the engine does get run in without it failing. At the end of the day its up to you how you run your engines in, I am only outlining my experiences.

Borrowed from the VR6OC: Car: Golf mk3 Highline 2931cc 12v VR6 engine (OBD2), car 124,000 miles, engine 6,500 miles Mods: 83mm JE forged pistons, standard compression. Scat Forged connection rods. Rotrex C30-84 with 70mm pulley. Stainless steel decompression plate 8.7:1. Doherty Racing 268 Cams. Aquamist 1S 50/50 Methanol/Water 0.7 jet. Dubpower 6-branch stainless exhaust manifold and full system with CAT bypass. 520cc injectors. PWR charge cooler. Pace pre-rad and brushless pump. 10.8mm silicone HT leads. Emerald ECU mapped by Storm developments. Balanced crank. Lightened and balanced Flywheel. SPEC 3+ cerametallic clutch. Forge dump valve with 30PSI spring. 3 bar Weber MAP sensor. Dyno'd at Storm last month. Figures: Running 20PSI+ Power: 277.9BHP @ 3941RPM @ the wheels Power: 370.5BHP @ 3941RPM @ the flywheel Max Torque: 370lb-ft @ 3941RPM Max figures exceeded the rolling roads capability!

Generally running the engine in this way will give you better ring seal resulting in more power. If its going to blow its going to blow whether its 20 miles or 2000 miles.

I have a Rotrex fitted to my Golf and If I am honest it does have too much power to be driveable, but at present I don't have an LSD fitted. I also only get 150 miles from a full tank of Optimax and that is driving normally 90% of the time. Someone will have to take me for a ride in their T/C VR so I can compare the drivabilty.

Fill the engine with 10w40 MINERAL oil. Warm engine to normal temp and then drive it hard, accelerating and decelerating the engine. Change the engine oil after 20 miles. Then refill with 10w40 mineral again and then just drive it normally but vary your driving take it for a good blast now and then. Change the oil after 200 miles, and then again at 500 miles. Thats pretty much it. The idea is to seal the rings thats all the running in process does, running it hard for the fisrt 20 miles forces the rings on the crosshatched honed surface, which wears the new rings before they become hardened. 90% of the ruuning in is done during the first 20 miles the other 10% in the following 480. I run all my engines in this way and I have never had a failure. Stealth etc tell you to run it in slow as a safety precaution.