Lizard Racing

2" x 50'

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=767717 You will need shims for the pre load, various pullers, a dial indicator a Bentley manual for the pre load figures they can be found on the Vortex from that link though. Take your time removing the 5th gears, I chipped one a while back and it cost me £63 trade! The rivets are fuckers too!

Deffo the starter you can strip them down easy enough just wet and dry the brass body inside the solenoid a little.

The above is true Ive got a CCM box as standard on my 98 golf highline which has quite tall 1st and 2nds.

There is a BP a mile from me where Super is 115.9 so you guys get off lightly I reckon. Got my diesel box sorted, in 2 minds what to swap out though.

Auxillary water pump. Alex

Last time I looked into the sensors and fitting was £175. I would rather spend that on the engine :D . It is possible to set it all up before you leave the car so the can be started by remote the next time but neither are like that. Ive had it on loads of cars in the past and only one has ever been done properly. The appeal soon wears off trust me.

Ive got this on 2 of my cars at the moment and its a nightmare. If I crouch or sit down with my keys in pocket sometimes the cars starts up! I have done it so many times. Ive left it in gear on the odd occasion (doesnt have the correct sensors fitted) as well, scary, on one occassion the car was jacked up and I was removing a wheel! Loads of times I have popped out of work to find the cars been running for half hour or so! It is not thatcham approved and you can see why. It was originally designed for auto aswell. NOT RECOMMENDED.

Im using a SPEC 3+ which is good for 525 lb/ft of torque apparently. Its not harsh like the AP paddle I was using before. Its a little heavier on the pedal than standard but you get used to it very quickly. Very little judder on take off and hasn't slipped yet, touch wood! Ive been using it for a 1000 miles or so. £300ish from the US.

Basic 10W40 mineral oil, I use Castrol GTX. If you can get hold of it Millers do a running in oil.

It should be fully extended, just make sure its got some oil in then screw it back in. Its probably wise to run the engine for a little and then remove the bolt again. If it has been pushed back in and stayed there then the bolt needs replacing. I sold a new one on ebay for a tenner a few months back.

Whats the part number on the Boxter S calipers? I run 996 turbo calipers with Cupra R fitment discs on my Golf. I purchased blank undrilled cast brackets from Germany for £50 and then machined/drilled and tapped them myself so that they would fit. However no matter what I did I still have to use 6mm to clear the back of my TT Comps.

Is that a Halfords professional torque wrench I see? :wink:

I must have retorqued the head studs nearly 20 times now! :lol:

Got hold of an Autotech one in the end off US ebay for a bargain price. Wow is it well made, too good to be fitted to the car really! Feels a good weight too.

Yeah I know what your saying about how deceptive it is, it just feels un-natural. I have had these bolts out twice before and dont remember being so taken back. Will deffo re-torque after 500 miles too. Got some of that Permatex spray off ebay last night, the Yanks seem to swear by it so good call Kev, thanks :wink:.

Thanks Kev. Took the head off today and the bolts didn't feel that tight. I ordered a VR6 transporter metal layer gasket from VW too, £42 though!

That is close Alex! I had to fit 6mm spacers to get my Porsche monoblocks to fit. APs are a good choice. I didn't know Godspeed where still going, I purchased some AP 4 pots from them for one of my early projects over 10 years ago. Still being used today on this:

The headgasket has just started to give a little on my VR and I need a little help working out which to fit. I have a part number for the one I have on there at the moment, which to be honest would have been fine if I hadn't been driving like a cock! The part number according to the label is 21103383N. Ive looked on Etka and cant find this part no. Should I be using 022103383F? If anyone has a better way of sealing these engines up please share your secret. I do have a wire ringed head and copper spacer gasket but I am unsure of its history so am reluctant to fit it. I only need the outer laminates to fit either side of my stainless spacer so thickness isn't a concern. Should I use a sealant? If so which one? I never have before and its something I have not looked into before now. Any help would be appreciated.

I will do when I have the money, had to pay for the diff a couple of weeks ago so have to wait another week or so. He quoted me $380 delivered which is a bragain really.

Ive always used cellulose.

Standard cast flywheels are so soft compared to the compound used on paddle clutches. The cover plates are fine and show no signs of wear but the flywheels are normally a mess. The amount of material left in the bottom of the bellhousing is unreal! It cost me £80 last time to have it faced. The last flywheel lasted 6000 miles. I do drive it daily as I have said and that means alot of stop starting. It just makes more sense to me to buy a new hardened steel plate instead of shelling out the same money to regrinding an old standard flywheel. I have always used a lightened flywheel on my VR and have had no issues with idle etc. The engine is extremely responsive and revs very freely.

Thats good to hear mate. Did you buy it over here or import it from the states?

Are any of you using Autotech or Fidanza alloy flywheels on your VRs. The clutches I have been running are literally eating the material off the standard flywheel. Its down to just under 4kgs and is getting very thin. I want to change it when I rebuilt the box so Im interested to hear what you think. Should I be looking at a billet steel instead off the alloy ones?

Very useful guide cheers. Wanted to do the swap while I fit my Peloquin, I have an ASD box, just undecided about what to do, I suppose I could just swap it out if it didnt work out . It seems few people have done this, but on paper it makes good sense.