markrtw

I checked a MK3 GTI 16v passanger side drive shaft part numbers recently against the Corrado VR6 part numbers using VAGCAT and found them to be the same.

I currently have a 96 Golf GTI 16v Anniversary which appears to be very original and is at 123,465 miles (if only I had written this 9 miles ago). A few months ago the front discs & pads were worn out, so I changed them making sure the hubs were cleaned off properly before fitting the discs and all was well for a while. Then I started getting what felt like a front left warped disc feeling when braking. It slowly got worse (but sometimes if breaking hard for example, it was OK). So I got some more discs & pads and did the job again. When I took the old (new) discs off I checked them out and they were not warped. Funny thought I, but fitted the new ones anyway and all was well again for a short while. Then the warped disc vibrations returned and after checking - it’s not the discs. The braking vibration has got worse recently after hitting a pothole and I am about to fit new top mounts, wishbone bushes, track rod ends, bottom ball joints as all are worn and I can hear a little knocking when trundling over bumps, broken surfaces etc. It would seem to me that the disc and hub must be moving together within the calliper. Therefore the bearings must be knackered allowing the hub to move about, OR (as there seems to be no bearing noises or play in it when pulling the wheel about with it jacked up) could it be the CV joint? Your thoughts please as it’s bugging the hell out of me and I would like to get the parts lined up for when I have the suspension in bits. Oh, and is a Corrado VR6 hub the same as the Golf 16v's as I have one of them spare. Many thanks.

Sounds like something is shorting and creating a circuit when it moves under acceleration. Bit of a needle in a haystack to find where.

I may have one. I will have to have a look in the store cupboard.

I have used these people a couple of times - it should give you an idea of cost. http://www.wheelrefurbishing.com/

Cool, that's a done deal. I'll send you a PM. When I was little I stayed one summer in Hopeman. (I grew up in Hamilton).

I have a set from a 94M VR6 complete with the smaller spring caps sat in a cupboard if you're interested. I have no idea what the going rate is for these, so suggestions welcome. I'll need to weigh them, but I can't see them being that expensive to post. Duffus - is that near Hopeman?

Nice to see my old car's got a future. Good luck with it!

Probable scam This new web site has come out of nowhere and is one of these prices seem 'too good to be true' sites. It looks like they have been quick to place reviews of 'Happy Buyers' up on the web etc to try and legitimise their site, but as the domain was only bought on the 15th, it adds to the 'too good to be true' feeling. Here is the link to a Pistonheads thread. Interestingly one person who joined pistonheads only on the 17th wants the thread removed: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=966560 Also the pictures of the cars are all in different locations and some even have the Pisonheads logo still on them. Looks like someone has gone to a lot of trouble...

Just have a conversation with the police & insurance people and sound them out. You will soon get a feeling if it's yes or no.

email Genesis - I'm sure they can supply some.

Nice example.

You might just be OK. I'm 6'5" and have no chance. You'll have to track one down in a 2nd hand showroom and see if you fit.

A late 4 cylinder turbo seems to be the one to get. Avoid the V8. Big bills and often unreliable - lots of overheating issues. Insurance is not too bad on the Esprit, but they are quite sensitive to setup and its recommended to replace the suspension bushes every few years to keep it sharp. Not a car for tall people.

Underneith, just in front of the rear axel on the passenger side. It's quite obvious as there are several brake pipes going into/coming out of it.

Just buy some replacement bleed valves, give the existing ones a good soaking overnight in WD40 (or better) and then get medieval on them with mole grips or Erwin bolt grippers to remove them. Then use the new ones.

LM grease is fine for the pins. One suggestion for the wiki - when the old discs are removed, clean up/wire brush the hubs, as if they have an uneven surface it may lead to the new discs warping. (I once had this on a golf where the front left kept warping. Asked my mechanic where I was going wrong and he said that he bet money on it being a rough hub. I cleaned it up and never had the issue return).

I have bought tyres from them. Ordered online and they arrived about 4 or 5 working days later. Not much else to say.

A good quality set of allen sockets are always better at not chewing the bolt, but if they are dead, then you may have to drill. I would suggest ordering some new bolts before you start as they should only be a few pence.

The late mk2 Gold 16v had a larger bore inlet manifold than the earlier ones and would fit. I think (but have not measured) the mk3 (2.0l) 16v manifold is a narrower bore than the mk2 late one and it runs a different injection system, so you may have issues there as well.

MK3 8v is a rod change box.

Hi, The ones I have I bought from B5VWC as a job lot of front hubs, brakes, shafts and CV joints when I urgently needed the drivers side (long) drive shaft as mine had snapped. I just swapped the long shaft over (complete with the CV joints). So I was left with the short shaft with it's CV joints attached and the 2 spare CV joints from my broken long shaft (threy were fine) and I'm just selling them off (as well as all the other bits I did not need) rather than throwing them in the bin. The car B5VWC was braking had a rusty body, but it was in good working order. (the shaft & CV's I used were absolutely fine). As for postage, the cheapest I know of is interparcel and it would come to no more than £10. (cannot be precise without weighing the stuff which is not to hand currently). As the shaft already has the CV joints on, it should be a relatively quick job to just swap the complete shaft over. I hope this helps.

On the mk3 the 1.8 is not a good engine. It was replace with the much better 1.6. Both the 1.6 and 2.0 are more economical and powerful so I would suggest looking for one of these and a lot of 1.8s have no equipment. The 1.8 is cheaper, but there is a reason for it. If you can stretch to an Avantgarde model, I don't think you would regret it over the 1.8. I looked at one of these (late 2.0 black colourconcept), but did not like how heavy & wobbily they are, so bought a GTI 16v tintop instead.

I have a nearside VR6 drive shaft with good CV joints on it and the off side CV joints (no driveshaft) for sale for £20 plus the postage if it's of any help to you.

I had A/C, Fog lights, rear heated screen & heated seats switches together and in that order and the ABS light was moved over next to the headlight switch.