plateletboy

its gotta be a hot glue gun all the way... very strong fix.... pb

are you sure its not like a rotten egg smell, which will be hydrogen sulphide from the cat....

ive only got vag.com version 3.something and a 'dumb' cable, but can read engine values.... go to 'open engine module', select measuring blocks, and then using the little up and down arrows on the left hand side, change the different lines to 1,2,3,4,5, etc you'll soon see if it measures something or not... i think coolant is on the first one.... pb

the sensor could be failing, but i was just making the point that using an engine from cold always uses much more fuel than a warm engine... as people have suggested, its a cheap part so just change it, or if you've got vag com check the readings are 'sensible' in block measurments.. pb

that is exactly what you would expect with a working blue coolant sensor.... cold engines use much more fuel, full stop... im getting far worse mpg at the moment because that big old VR6 block takes so much more energy to heat up from winter temps compared to summer pb

i took 2 'ribs' worth off the bottom of the front bumps, and about 30 mm off the TOP of the rear bumps... i spent a while working this out based on new ride height, old vs new suspension travel, etc it works great... pb

would you be able to read unusual timing values in VAG-com if the sprocket was out by one tooth..?? or would it be a case of it 'not knowing' because it gets its values from the cam sensor.?!?

well it doesn't sound like there is anything wrong with the cooling system if it doesn't get any worse after 60 miles, so the only way I can imagine an engine could warm up 'super fast' would be if the timing was out (ECU controlled) or if it was running too lean - again ECU controlled..... its a bit of a weird one as a fast engine warm up is kind of a good thing..!!? pb

90'C for coolant and 106'C for oil doesn't sound too hot to me... my coolant sits at 80'C at a constant speed (50mph), and the oil goes up to anything around 115'C after a long motorway run at 90 pb

if your Lambda sensor is reading a constant 1 something isn't right..... it should fluctuate around 1 to both + and - values, but i can't remember by how much... pb

nah, steel from the factory.... If they are all starting to look a bit bad at the rear i would advise doing them all in one go, because bleeding corrados is a pain in the ass..!! Get a roll of pipe, a £15 flaring tool from online. Its a bit of a pain to do but very satisfying... and even easier if you can get some blanking plugs to go straight in the output from the abs block so it doesnt drip fluid whilst your working... pb

i always like a big pair of stilsons for anything track rods... nothing grips like them.... pb

im confused..?!?! i thought the filler neck on corrado's and mk3 golfs was all one big molded plastic lump including the tank..?!? do you mean just the section right at the very top where the petrol hose nozzle goes in..?? and your search was right, rusty filler neck is a bit of a scirocco killer... :( pb

Yeah i've seen that nice low entry aluminium jack from machine mart...... However, its only rated to 1 1/4 ton, so would really be on the edge with the fat ol' VR6 front end. pb

mine only runs with ignition on, and after runs only when hot with fans on.... I've looked into this also and found reference on US forums of 2 types of controllers. one does the 10 min over run, one doesn't....

gas shocks still use oil going through a little hole to dampen, its just kept under pressure by a gas charge which apparently stops cavitation weitecs have a 2 year warranty, so maybe worth a check... pb

How much has sheared off..?? or rather, how much is left poking out?? if some is poking out you maybe able to get a big pair of mole grips or stilsons on it..... failing that if not enough is poking out, drill a suitable size hole in the middle of it and whap in a nice big easy out.... Of course as you have said getting to it is the worst part, but as your engine is drained from doing the water pump you can whip the expansion tank out, and all th hosing to give yourself loads of room.... unfortunately paying garages to do annoying frustrating jobs like this is all time and labour..... chin up.. pb

i think this can be caused by dirty sticky throttle bodies, or a dodgy/failing ECU power relay (109 i think).. also a more 'retro' classic would be a leaking hose to the brake servo - if it occurs mainly when breaking pb

Cheers guys, i plugged the black box next to the spoiler control unit back in and it started and ran fine..... I must say taking the matrix and dash out was a lot quicker than putting it all back in nicely...!! and in true corrado fashion i got it all back together and nice and warm, and went to feel my new cabin heat sensation only to find the blower now isn't working....!!! Bah........... hopefully ive just disturbed a connection somewhere.... pb

Doh..!! M-reg VR6....

Been doing my heater matrix today.. it went quite well to be honest... However, i tried to start the car before reinstalling everything to check for any leaks and incase id cocked up any wiring. Now it will start but dies within 2 secs..... Im hoping that it needs a connection for the engine to run, maybe the instrument cluster which flashes the test for the water and oil pressure.....??!?! does anyone know if this is the case..?? I'd loath to get EVERYTHING back in to still find it doesn't run... any thoughts much appreciated.. ta, pb

very interested in the outcome of this one.... sounds exactly like my VR6 pedal feel. bites well, but only about half way done, and it was all fine at the MOT... pb

are you sure the squeak isn't the handbrake..?? try it with it off, as that is what definitely squeaks on the back on mine....

gotta agree, im loving the budget weitec ultra gt kit..... stiff enough, low enough, but still really comfy around town.... pb

just a thought from this... if a PAS rack was continually used without PAS working wouldn't it put a tremendous amount of strain on all the racks, pinions, cogs, and gears, etc... (hedging my bets there...!) Doesn't the PAS hydraulics take a huge amount of 'pressure' off the mechanicals having to directly turn the wheels....?? pb