spoier

Well I think this might have something to do with it, I cleaned up the pressure sensor with some brake cleaner, I'll see if it helps at all, although it doesn't always bleeeeep when it's cold. Engine oil was at "min" mark too, so I filled it up to the "max" mark. I have a loose dipstick tube which probably isn't helping anything. So many little things to fix... Anyway if anyone can give me the thread pitch/size for the fitting so I can put in a generic gauge temporarily that would be fab PS looks like I know why the oil temp sensor isn't working, there's nothing attached!! Not sure where the wire is either... is there supposed to be a spade connector hanging off the sensor or something? Skye

Over here in the USA there are later Corrado shift mechanisms that have a counterweight attached which makes shifting smoother, and is a good upgrade, but may cause clearance problems to the intercooler tubing and require a little fiddling. Just to warn you. Do a google search for "corrado shift counterweight" if you want more info.. If you are just changing the cable it doesn't matter but if you change the box at the trans then it might. Skye

Resurrecting this thread as I'm having the same problem, warning light comes on sometimes when the car is cold, then goes out as it warms up or sometimes if I just rev the car. I want to put in a proper gauge just to make sure its not the sensor (and I'm curious what the pressure is exactly) - anyone know what thread the pressure sensor by the oil filter is? Going to give the wiring connectors a good cleaning and see if that helps at all, in the meantime. Thanks Skye

Ah you're right, http://www.angelfire.com/or2/machtiggti/vin.html LK is 1990 model year, KK is 1989 model year. The build date is right off the VIN sticker on my B pillar. If you're going to sell a car in 1990 you better start making them in 89! Skye

My '90 Corrado VIN ends in LK009304 and has a build date of 9/89 I'm not sure where the serial numbers begin, but it looks pretty low! Skye

Great, ordering one now.... It better be pukka for $139.99 usd Car theft has jumped 30% here in Seattle lately, I dont want to be another statistic!! Skye

Anyone use it? What do you think of it? Anyone use it, and had their car stolen anyway? :shock: I like that it covers the wheel too, if I get a nicer one. Skye

Weird. I can see where there was a sticker on the rear panel, but it seems to have been removed or scraped off. I can't find any sticker on either of the inner wings either... but no evidence of any accident that I can find. Skye

Err, sorry.. which rear panel?? you mean the back side of the panel the licence plate attaches to? And you mean the inside of the inner wing (ie the side of the engine bay) right? I'm 99% positive I have Pearl Effect Blue but I want to make sure. Thanks

Where is the sticker with the paint code? I know its supposed to be in the trunk somewhere, but where? On the floor under the carpet? On the rear valence? on the sides? Thanks.............. *sheepish* :)

Sweet!! Thanks Now to track down all the parts you mention... Skye

If you were in North America, I would say the best place (where I get all my electrical supplies) would be Waytek Wire... http://www.waytek.com/ Might want to look through their catalogue just to see what they have to offer. Skye

The passive restraint system in my Corrado is either broken or has been disabled, I'm going to figure out which... at any rate the previous owner disconnected the shoulder belt so there is just the lap belt right now which I really really don't like (my gf refuses to even ride in it) I'll see if I can fix it, but actually I really hate the passive restraint system in the first place :mad: Has anyone swapped in a normal 3pt retractable seatbelt system from another VW model? Is there a mount point in the B pillar for it? Thanks Skye

The driver's side door handle is broken on my car, the handle just flops around like it's not attached to anything. The lock works though, the central locking works great. Do I need to buy a new handle, or has something just fallen off (like a rod or something)? Do you have to buy the whole handle, lock and all? Where in the USA is a good place to buy the parts? I think maybe in this case getted used parts would be a false economy. Thanks Skye

Turns out it was the front left suspension bushings are shot.. clunk on accel/de-accel. From what he described I was expecting rod knock - apparently its common on 'rados when crusing at 2500-3500rpm Skye

How did you fix your stone chips? Just get a full respray? I think the reason chips are so bad here in the USA is because over half of all vehicles on the road are trucks/SUVs - and hardly any of them have mud flaps. It's really stupid and ridiculous. Bad taste rules supreme here unfortunatley. Skye

Yup I went into this with a TOTAL budget of $4000 - either buy a car already in really nice condition for that, or in this case, have $1400 to spend to bring it up to that condition. Most of the little problems are going to be easily fixed once I have the Bentley manual. The engine is down on power (butt dyno says it's got about 90 hp at the moment) - may need a 'charger rebuild, but compression on the engine is OK and equal. Definately have to raise the car up a little though, it is lowered WAY too much. Skye

Woo Yay I'm now the pround owner of a bouncing 1990 Corrado G60!!!! Many many little things wrong with it, but I got quite a good deal on it. Lots of stone chips as you can see, but the body is otherwise in quite good shape (no bondo!!). Interior is a bit ratty, lots of little electrical gremlins to sort out. Maybe be swapping in leather seats some time but the cloth are quite comfy, great bolster side support. And finally the nice young fellow who sold his baby to me, who listened to reason and accepted my offer which I believe is exactly what it is worth ($2600 US) Absolutely thrilled to say the least, but have to get cracking on some of the bigger problems before the July 4th weekend so we can do a road trip Skye

I'm going to look at a Corrado G60 on Saturday, the guy says it's in good mechanical condition except there is a knocking sound on overrun (aka engine braking, aka when you lift your foot off the throttle). Is this a common problem? Any ideas? I would expect rod knock on acceleration (under load) not on overrun. Thanks! Skye

Kev is right, you often get judder with a new clutch if the flywheel isn't resurfaced. It may or may not go away with time (couple of months). Skye

Hmm, this one is pretty close to me... recently rebuilt engine (maybe), obviously I would give it a full going-over before doing anything. Don't know if I like the spoiler or the wheels, and the seat belts are stupid. In other words the car could be "kid-fucked" to coin a phrase.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2418953357 Black isn't my fave colour either. Gets dirty way too fast and bodywork is a pain in the a$$ because every imperfection shows up. Skye

I think I have an ideal why the recommended pressures are higher than they should be - probably for the same reason most oil viscosities are lower than they should be, because it helps the manufacturer squeak by the emissions and miles-per-gallon government requirements. If I'm not mistaken a higher inflated tire will create less drag and a 1 mpg difference can save the factory millions in tax... The correct way to figure out your pressures would be to go out on a skid pad (or a local autocross) and do tire temp tests on the inside, middle and outside of the tread, and also use the "shoe polish" trick to see what kind of sidewall roll you're getting. You want the pressure high enough to have little sidewall rolling, but not so much that the tread is "balooned" out or convex. From a performance perspective that would get you the perfect setting but from a comfort perspective it will probably be way to hard. (for more information go to any autocross bbs like grmotorsports.com) Tire pressures will also change your understeer/oversteer characteristics near the limit so that has to be taken into account as well. So you are dealing with four different requirements: comfort, (cornering) performance, at the limit behaviour, and tire wear and your settings will fall somewhere in that "square" depending on what you are after.... Skye

Hi All, I'm thinking about buying a Corrado (haven't decided on the G60 or VR6 yet) and I will do a compression check on whatever car I look at, but was wondering what the numbers should be. I know the important bit is less than 10% variation between cyls but a ballpark figure would be good... I searched the archives and found this for the G60: 116-174psi But I can't find the value for the VR6. Is the compression check procedure the same for other EFI cars (pull fuel pump fuse, run until car dies, then pull all plugs and check each cyl with wide open throttle). Is the fuel pump fuse clearly marked? Now to dig up some information on common rust areas.... Thanks! Skye