GazzaG60
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Everything posted by GazzaG60
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Getting the injection system to work properly is the biggest problem mechanical stuff just bolts together if its the right size. but breathing feeding and sparking are different matters. build it on a digi 1 G60 and get a proper remap n itll work better
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inlet and outlet are smaller than std too. so are the ones on what i have. looks ok if itll fit alright
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E Bay for intercoolers i got mine 660mm x 165mm x 50mm with alloy end tanks (need a bit of work with the dremel) for cheap money £80 i think it was. the 944 i believe is a 2.5 turbo 4cyl. my mate used to have one and i think they push about 1.5bar standard so it can handle the boost levels.
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id get bushes(which i aint yet), top mounts n coilies together. the supersports are good on general feel n that but new topmounts are a must n my bushes are v loose now.
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supersport-seem ok to me.
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Id get top mounts also. they take the brunt of impact and never stand up to new stuff around them. just wind out the bottom bolt. its long n mine were tight i just had to wind it all the way out.
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Sounds Worth a try. not sure mine will slide open though. dont wanna get the roof stuck in the roof
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this is the panel that is on the roof that rattles back n forth. I vthink its cos the panel needs setting up so that the close is in the right place. if it tilts ok (mines broke), when on tilt tyhe tilting panel n liner wont be fixed together properly.
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take panels off from under steering wheel. the one that covers the fuses n the one that runs down to the centre console. pull out cassette storage thing to leave empty bin. drill a hole in the far end on the bin bout 15mm. put a grommet in if you like. thred the copper pipe thru the hole n round above the steering and out of one of the grommets in the bulkhead. its behind the middle of the inlet manifold. take sender out of top of oil filter housing. 2 bar it is the biggest one closest to the enfgine of the two. screw in T-piece. be very careful. test fit it first as the brass threads are bad. screw the 2 bar swithc into the end of the t piece then screw into the filter housing attaching the gauge line after that is in place. do not overtighten any of the brass fittings. it may look like they dont go in very far but 3 turns or so is enough. youll soon find out if it aint right -80psi! attahc the gauge to the copper line in the pod n away you go. run the red to a ignition live if you want it always lit-black n yellow i think. earth to a earthing point near fuses
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i have a tim oil pressure gauge. has been in for about 18 months now. works fine , the odd needle stutter but thats what 20 quid gets. newer had a problem though. be v v v v v v careful with the t-piece. i stapped it without any effort into the top of the oil filter housing. i get 60-80 psi at ocld dropping down when warmer as an example
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probly head down for a couple of hours if i can. Today i ordered a engine mount,clutch mastercylinger and O2 probe so jobs a plenty
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whats the date of the RR. is it sat or sunday. got jobs to do but may pop down for a look if ive finished
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ok fair game. got to admire our persistance for knowledge :)
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id have said that the code has been optimized and reshaped to remove the digilag. it must still cycle in order to attain optimum runnig for fuel and emmissions purposes. however if didglag is a bosch pre-deturmined process and not a inherent problem then it can be removed by code tweaking. maybe the lag is there so that each data sender can finish cycle, i dont know this is speculation. the brain is obviously trying to deturmine what is required and this probly varies from country to country and year to year. with a preset config like the SNS ie 68, red tops, 268 cam, 3.5bar FPR then the setup is going to be v similar everytime. similar boost, timing fueling requirements. the programmers-danny, sam, bilal,???? know roughly what will happen and so can drop the WOT switch as they know WOT boost can be done prior to WOT if you get what i mean. it obviosly aint as simple as this and lots n lots of development has gone in along with testing to get what we can have today. im probly miles off whats going on really but it keeps the thought process running. once this sack of turd is running proply ill have one as ive seen it n felt it n it was good nice power.. deep breath..........
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magic trickery. tell the brain that when a certain boost level is reached to go WOT and use the maps that have been adjusted/rewritten for those settings.
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the question to ask your self is do you want yur hard work and high boost engine to go pop or to reach its potential
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ill be at wantisden too yes. Blue G60 with BBS RCs gonna send the form off later for camping
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WOT override to help prevent problems with reaching lots of boost, which you can happen with smaller pullies even not at full throttle?
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ill be there. gonna camp hopefully. gotta send form off this week. should be a goodun. would be nice to get the car running better before then.
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i got a set of those wheels. -scirocco storm wheels
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digi lag is not physical lag as in turbo lag it is lag within the injection system and is effectively the time it takes for the system to go WOT and fuel accordingly. on a gauge it kinda flutters about when it should be holding. kinda cant make up its mind what is going on. ive seen a SNS no lag n it just goes n holds real time as it should
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dan-mine is stuck on too. i had the snip the gator low down so i could slide the console up to adjust the H-brake. need to get it all off n sort it
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fitted mine at wekend. was dissapointyed to find it didn't fit the hole flush. my home made one fitted better. still working/fighting with the O2. was working fine yesterday and this morning, cyclling away then at lunch today wouldn't cycle, held 1 bar on the AF and popped and farted n held back like it has never before
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r we talking wheel power or crank. Id saya turbo car would do 280 ish due to the amount of airflow and boost it can deliver more reliably. the head obviously restricts this. there are a few vortexers doing 210-230whp with turbos. that must equate to around 280 flywheel power