GazzaG60

what you may find is a mr2 is pretty good. i have raced a vr6 in my nearly std G60. thru the twisties i left him for dead. in a straight he had a car or 2 to 100. sorry guys but another 50hp which the 65mm + stuff will do will see that VR everyday. my dad used to have a mr2 and i recon it would see me off (maybe). it aint got the torque butnit has legs. handling will leave FWD for dead too. v v close race on the cards i think.

apparently on a general note US cars have crap headlights They get different clocks to us. think they do 140 they get a rear eye level brake light. side repeatrs in the bumper 2.8 instead of 2.9 stupid, stupid seatbelt doodahs the wheel is on the wrong side

I got 28 on my temp gauge at the moment. I feel that power starts to be reduced once 20 or above is attained. it goes awful it sounds chug my back sticks to the seat. anybody else suffer like this. incidently i think that taking the cat off n reducing backpressure with the full system doesn't help. it aint a problem (well not for many days of the year) just a gripe. i know its cos of heat n all that. you guys with filter where carbon can was. Is that any improvement? std intercooler is poo int it so thats heat soaked before i even run it. (gonna replace it soon) any one with sprayers on the IC? How do you get on in warmer climates than sunny manchester?

think they are badged just corrado. They were the late ones werent they. they had lots of gadgets n no poke. not that much cheaper to insure either. maybe a easy cross-flow turbo conversion though

use autoglym bumper care for black plascic to rid it of wax. I use al sorts of stuff. I like the halfords polish n sealant in a tin. I use a buffer too. gets rid of the cloth scratch marks great

tis a tube to exhuast manifold that is a place for measuring gas.

dont go dry. go wet Dry is just NOS without fuel which unless u is mapped and got bigger fuel pump injectors then you gonna lean out bad. Timing is also a issue. it is usually necessary to retard a degree or two with NOS. get a wet kit which adds fuel and NOS. get 40 shot or so. If you read vortex them you see that sam added a 40 shot and hit around 300wheel lbs fT of torque. for reference a std car does around 140lbs ft at the wheels. sound slike it may take its toll on the engine and tranny after a short time. any more n somefink is snapping. i do fancy installing NOS myself. not sure if any insurance company will touch a car with NOS installed. Get a bottle warmer n a pressure gauge. both are needed. pressure needs to be sustained i believe. not sure about venting. Believe they use a safety valve in case of excess pressure. if this goes itll vent laughing gas into the cabin. not good. think in racing you need to vet this through the floor. stops u getting giddy

i have supersport coilovers too. got um from Venom. Got the same ones the std ones with gold bodiues n red springs. They seem ok. Im happy with um. not sure they would be up to koni but like darren said you get what you pay for. I done around 20k on mine now. get the odd bounce up front but think thats maily due to our asssssssss roads up here. by the way with a 7.5 x 17 et 35 you need a 5mm spacer for the rear to get um on at a ride hight less than tractor

not the first ones. my mate has 18" version on his subaru n they dont look good. spokes too thin. be careful on cheap alloys. i cracked 2 rims in 18 months using rimstock/team dynamics as they are a weak wheel. if you think you have a slow puncture thencheck n clean the inside wheel edge. this is where they crack from-inside edge inwards.

garden centre.

when i bought my G60 2.5 yrs ago. that car was a potential. was in stoke at the time. hje wanted silly money for it then

all depends where you live. i pay 780 TPTF with elephant was 200 cheaper than nearest rival. Im in Sunny Oldham which doesn't have insurance benifits of living in the south or out in the sticks. im 26 with 3 yrs no claims

get a AF gauge off bilal. i have one in my car. same as the yanks use too (G60 peeps anyway) itll show signs of the o2 probe working properly. as a rough indication i run without cat n i believe when they did the job the killed the probe(then didn't plug it back in) has seemed lean since so last wek i did a test. was 0.7% at idle with probe. unplugged around the 3% mark

bilal. When we getting the soft limiter like danny has been doing a few times? i fancy some of that i do.

My radiator fan has a piece broken out of the edge which makes it wobble n make a horrid noise n vibrate when it kicks in. This happened when the engine mount went-something when crashin into it probly the engine. if you need a mount get one so it dunt happen to you. Anyway i want to get a slimline jobbie so that some of the bulk is taken away from behind there to free some space so working is easier. has anyone done this already. If so what did you get

srtd mount is oil filled. but this dont last long. mine had around a inch or so play in it when i tok it off. Get a Volkspeed one (uprated) n the front mount problems are no more

im in manchester 26 for the last 2 days. must be a manc record. gotta rain tomorrow. car is shite in this weather

lee-i mailed you mate. Nigel-cheers for the legwork too. dubboy-installation is pretty simple really. AF need the signal tapping in to the lavinder signal wire in the loom coming from the probe. the wire is black then changes to purple.lav after the plug. follow it back into the loom a little away from the heat, splice in there. use solder. use the same ground as the probe(engine mount bracket) and possibly another too.need good earths these cars. tap power into ignition. make sure its a clean source. Boost can be tapped ito the vac line uner the dash to back of clocks with a t-piece

ill take 52mm if thats all that is available. would prefer 60 though sport comp boost 20psi with vac cheers

Lee-As i mailed you i want 60mm not 52. tis 2 5/8 i think. I didn't hear back about it. Presumed you didn't have the numbers still. To recap i want a sport comp 20 psi with vac in 2 5/8 cheers

nothing like a free marketing dept is there 8)

Im using Summit racing AF and TIM (yes i know its cheap) oil pressure. Im gonna replace the oil with a Summit oil to match. Im gonna buy a 60mm Boost n fit it in a pod. Gonna speak to my scooby friends as japan is the land of grey interiors so they have grey pods i believe

Not sure if this is relevent or not but on Escort zetec engines they have more problems than us with idle. other tha vacum leaks, isv type issues n that they also have airflow sensor problems. What happens is like yours on VRs they get hot to burn all the crud off. problem is that whats in the air now is different to what it used to be n so the temp that it gets to isn't hot enough or cant burn the crud off. what you do is get some intake cleaner n sprey it on the wires in the tube. be v careful if a wire breaks its dead. get a paintbrush n trim it so that only a few bristles are left. carefully wipe the wires. my mates escort GTI used to hunt real bad. tis a lot better after cleaning this. think the way it works is by keeping it at a constant temp. air cools it and the difference to take it back to temp is fed to ecu if it is shielded with poo the its like having a jacket on.

i have a VDO. before that i made my own. If anything it fits better than the VDO. Buy a Black ring binder. draw around the cassette holder. WOrk out centres for guages. cut um with a circle cutter on a drill. Use 2 pieces of folder to make it bout 8mm thick. plenty rigid enough. mount gauges. I used sticky back velcro to secure it. glue a couple of plastic bloks on the card n stick the velcro in the bin. Job sorted. the black grain folders even look like proper stuff. the only downside it the gauges are not counter sunk unless you cut the holes in the top piece of folder bigger.

Bias valve. i have replaced it on mine. same symptoms. eventually itll all go.