GazzaG60

itll help henny. there was an american who run one on his corrado G60, 1.9 etc etc think he made around 260hp and run around 13 dead. fastest G60 Corrado ive heard of.

cut down rs2 is a shame mate. waste of a nice manifold IMO but i understand your point. basically its a bigger nicer looking s2 unit. it wont fit the G60 anyway as the flanges are different between 4v and 2v engines. the old 10v ones work well on the G60 as mentioned. maybe 10hp.

spoke to ric the other week. he did a audi touring car 2l 16v 304hp NA. did a turbo job with a head similar to what he is doing for me (his i expect was more advanced £££££) and made 540hp at 1 bar. its all in the flow. he also said the short runner will have massive effects. not sure how this would effect a G60 but id expect a bigger plenum would help. think power engineereing used to do this with a std manifold and weld a bit in. belive a audi 5000 (10v turbo) has the same flange but bigger runners and plenum and a worth modded fit similar to the 20v 5cyl on the 16v

the hand porting is small. 1% extra/balance. so a home ported 16v flows better for sure. not trying to say they are shit as they aint. its just for the cost it maybe more worthwhile to do a 16v conversion. rather than peak the 8v stay well within the 16v's standard cast. the conversion will cost but if you want to stick to the glader then its probly not worth it anyway as the Glader can only just feed a valve enough air without exploding in my opinion. the 16v head im having done is solid lifter with bigger valves on the exhaust side, custom springs etc. should flow.

ok so its 1 less cfm on inlet and 17 more on outlet. so the exhaust is better standard and the inlet is less than 1 percent better. so id say it flows more. figures taken from ric woods site. the man himself

or just fit a std 16v head and flow more than a big v mega ported 8v.

i see both your points and both are valid. proven horsepower gains but was that built engine on a standard head holding back the power? having said that you wont get the full benifit from big valves and cam on standard engine anyway.

i hear that the hi-res code makes the map run richer so it needs a tweak down a tickle to lean it off. fit the egt as close to the flange of no 1 runner as possible. id fit it now. no point guessing until you fit a turbo.

the glader is the limiting factor here. only the very best will make 270lbsft. yes the turbo boys will make more but they are using a far more efficient type of compressor. 1.2bar on a G60 is a lot less than the same on a vfxx im with Blue_Joe those who think a big valve head will make them 270lbs ft most will be dissapointed. removing restriction in the head doesn't mean it flows more air especially with a belt driven device and no map controlled boost device. why not go the ihi route on and run 1.5 bar? less money, probly more power and reliability.

good to see that you got good results. still not in with mine yet so.... expect good results though. id get the egt in mate. too little timing causes lots of heat. this will kill an engine just as quick as too much timing. when the egt is in you will see as you add timing the heat dropping away. we learned that by popping a set of ported headers on a weak spot with heat. 200-300 yards did 900 deg

was looking at the tb i got for the 16vt. its a vr vento one i think. its got the damper. i presumed same as you to stop the engine dropping off and the engine having to catch it. smoother transition to idle. the dam went well mate by the way

looks ok for the small number of mods. bang for buck sucks plums on any NA car i think. dont treat the rollers as gospel. i think that you wont get the same figure next time or at different places. use the same rollers for each mod change though as they will give you the best idea of power increase but if you are happy it makes no difference.

dual sender from an audi 80 in the scrapper or from any vdo stockist or cheap t-piece. same job.

welding ally is a fucker of a job unless you have the right materials, conditions and machinery. i think id just buy one next time. try racecraft or boostfactory if you dont have fab tools and skills. they make very very good ones for not a lot. and the fuel rail will fit well too which can be a bitch. expect around 500 quid to your door though. i made mine out of a big bore bottom part of a 16v inlet, a subaru sport inlet for the oval to round transition and some plate. cost about 50 quid in materials. finished in about 30 man hours (never done it before).my mate helped with the welding. im set up to run either a 75mm mustang throttle or a vr6 one. best would be some nice tubing stock around 50mm and a oval transition tool but we are talking about the last few hp there.

a bit small for a proper 16vt. i think im right in saying the 20v has a smaller diameter runner too. it was designed for FI so works but its a production car part. the 16v was designed na so has bigger inlet and the option to use higher lift cams and solid lifter easier etc to flow the air NA. this really helps the big power turbo guys as its kinda like a modded 20vt already, ok the 20v flows better standard at standard lift but solid lifter and bigger cams changes the prospective and the differences are small. the fact that you can custom make a inlet that flows miles better than a 20vt inlet is kinda in 16vt territory as its a custom job anyway. think of it as moving the pressure to the cylinder from the inlet. to make the most of it id go custom plenum, 50mm runners and velocity stacks but the 20vt way will work fine. potentially some lost free HP though.

forget the 2e and get a 6a or 9a. too much messing with the 2e for the belts on the cheap. short runner should improve top end on the NA valve. ive seen 14hp gains before now on dyno sheets. if you modded the valve with the cam mod or anything else to improve top end then itll help. like kev said the kjet may need a tweak. to keep standard bits buy a full 9a or 6a and put 2 gaskets in there. use arp head studs but use ford 289 arp rod bolts to save a stack of cash. the std 9a pistons are better than the 8v ones i think. people have made over 400 wheel on a totally standard internal 9a 16v. make the plenum at least 2l in capacity and a vr TB or mustang for uber power.

can't see why an exhaust would melt before an alloy head. can anybody explain. if fueling good id check timing. seen a manifold blow due to heat with lack of timing in the map. good job the manifold was weak or the head would be poo.

had the same said of mine but get in a subaru or somthing like that and look at the quality and you may be reassured.

16vt with msns-e had the ms for about 1 yr but not fitted. got most built. gonna update my post of the project soon as i now found a digicam again. Keith_mac knows a thing or 2 about squirt. i have asked him a few q's in my time. im good with theory but not into electonics so dont know the bits about that. tp122's and all that stuff to replace fidle for isv? who devised that type of mod?

think its 029q that has the good pwm code for isv in it. for big injectors the hi-res code seems to work ok too. there is knock settings on the ECU kev. but like most ecus if the map is bad or overtimed for the fuel the ecu can do little to stop damage. usually the damage is done before you or the ecu can help it. like the knocklinks. my mate used to import them. you see from the series of lights knock. when you see it you let off. potentially too late. i will be testing the knock settings on MS when im running. probly the easy way of datalogging then hitting the knock sensor with something and seeing if it pulls the timing ive asked.

sounds like you got a v3 board. all spark stuff is onboard IIRC so no need to do the wiring mods i will have to have. get the extra code on so you can have 12x12 tables.

clock feed from the MS. or from ignition module or coil if you are only doing fuel then its straight forward. leave all the ignition ecu and module alone. if not follow midnightGLi's diagram or another of similar type. the way you mod the board can effect how you can run the ISV if you want to retain it. MSNS requires lots of reading then some more.

id go with lean and/or timing too. thats the problem with mapping on the rollers and not on the road. the cam in aG60 is phased for this reason. overlap is usally an issue in twin cam cars where the phasing is adjustable

good stuff mate. i bought mine ready built with extra code from rodney@rsautosport if you plan on it get the wiring loom from them too as it saves loads of hassle. mapping aint to difficult if you have the right tools to feedback info. its the setup of ISV etc that needs carful tweaking with msns where you may get away with lesser setting on more taylor made ecu's you need (ideally) wideband EGT gauge boost gauge. these are the devices that tell the story. maybe a knocklink too. aim for 14-5-15:1 for cruise and 11.5-12:1 for on boost. thats safe. there are some general rules of thumb for mapping like -1 degree for every psi. they aint hard and fast but they are a good rule of thumb.

ARP's are bolts that are non stretch. they are usually studs to be exact rather than bolts. they are both stronger and reusable. worth the investment.