Kaktus

Ta for the quick response David. Battery has just passed a year now. I had it at the shop where i bought it from a couple of months ago, and they said it's fine. What i can mention is that i have a constant drain on my battery aswell. It's about 0.1A ( if i remember correctly) and it is the electrical windows/central locking unit that draws my battery flat over 3 or 4 days. I never found the problem as to why it's draining so much, but i doubt it very much that that is the reason for the 11.8v reading over my battery at idle. Or am i wrong?

Hi guys. For some reason my alternator doesn't charge my battery. I had my alternator at one of local auto electricians and it tested ok. I saw with my own eyes that it charges at 13,2V on theire machine... but when i put the alternator in my car my battery only shows 11.8V when the car is idling. Last night i even went so far as to run a jumperlead directly from the alternator to the battery (bypassing the starter) and it made no difference. I'm sure this is something very small, yet very frustrating. All help would be gratefull apreciated. Hugo

So true. We did supect the dizzy but since we replaced it with my old one and it was the same we moved on with the troubleshooting. :oops:

Hi guys. Managed to get it up and running last night. You guys won't believe what it was. It turned out that the shaft inside the dizzy managed to break loose from it's "head" Replaced the part with another dizzy i have and everything is sorted. The funny thing is that i replaced the dizzy with another one and the symptoms was the same. What a bugger, but atleast she's back up and running. Thanks for the help guys Hugo

Hi Mate. Thanks for the input. I have 2 questions though. What colour is the vac line, and how do i test it? Also how do i test for a faulty ignition amp?

Hi Tim I will give that a try tonight. I booked the car in at VW for tomorrow morning aswell

Andy the firing order is def. the right way around. If i change any of them around i get backfire into the fuel distributor. Skimask. Sorry i forgot to mention that i removed the crank pulley to check for this exact problem you described. The keyway and key is like brand new. No wear and tear on it. Guys could the tci unit cause this?

Thanks for the advise but like i mentioned in the first post, the dizzy was replaced by another one.

Hi Guys. Let's see if anybody on this forum is clever enough to figure out my problem. Ok so about a month ago my car broke down and i had to be towed home. Just give you a quick update on what exactly the symptoms are. The car doesn't start at all. The only way of getting to start the car is too FULLY turn the dizzy away from you, if one stand in the front of the car, which means the dizzy must be turned clockwise if looked from the side. This and the throttle body must be opened completely, only then does the car starts and then it only JUST idle on 500rpm's. It won't pickup any rev's at all, it will stay at these rpm's and hesitate to die... If the throtlebody is been closed the car will struglle to idle for 3seconds or so and then it dies. And to get it started again is an absolute fukken mission. I should also mention that it doesn't always start this way, but we found that if we do get the car to start this is the only way to do so. What that tells us is that someting is retarding the timing right? So everyone i've asked about this told me to check my cam timing. And i swear to god we must have checked it about 40 times. No lies. The cam timing is def. spot on..... I even went so far as to adjust the cam timing one tooth both ways of tdc but then i can't even get the car to start on any ignition timing setting. So that rule out that my cam timing could be a tooth out. It def. isn't. I'm going to try and make you a list of things we replaced and tested so far. 1. Plugs 2. Plug wires 3. Dizzy itself 4. Dizzy cap 4. Coil plugwire 5. Coil itself 6. We unplugged all senors on the head just incase one tells the ecu to fuk with the ignition timing. 7. Checked all wires and earth wires. Must have checked this about 20 times aswel :) 8. Like mentioned above, i checked the cam timing about 40 times... no lies. The cams itself has also been put in the right way, def. no doubt there. 9. We replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump. Haven't replaced the lift pump as it seems like the fuel is getting through to the injectors. 10. I also replaced that other unit that sits right above the WUR. Forgot it's name now. 11. Check the vacuum lines for leaks. Must have checked them atleast 15 times aswell:) 11. Probably a few other things we tested, which i forgot now. My questions to you guys are. What else can cause these symptoms? Could it be the ecu itself? Or maybe that modulater unit thingy-bob next to it? What exactly is that modulator thingybob? Can a vacuum leak cause the car not to start at all. If so how can i test for leaks with a car that doesn't even run? Apologies for the post but i'm really starting to get desperate as everything different mechanics told me to do has failed. I'm not taking the car in to a specialist as i don't trust any of the local okes to work on my car. Happy Dubbin Hugo :wink:

Forgot to mention what was done to it. What he did was: 1. Polish the exhaust ports. 2. Flowed and polished the intake ports. 3. 3 angle grinded the valves. 4. Match ported the bottom/lower intake manifold to the intake ports. 5. Replaced the valve guides and stem seals. 6. A few other engineering thingies which i won't go into depth now..

Hi guys. I got my head back after some work has been doen to it. See pic. But i also have some bad news. I somehow managed to damage the injector guide thingie in transport yesterday. :( See pic. Can i use it as it is or do i have to replace the injector guide thingybob?

yeh true :-P

Hi guys. Yes it comes out of my 1.8 KR. I wasn't sure wether they were indeed kr cams since the head casting is 051 103 373, and the cams are 027. The intake cam looks like it was an exhaust cam which was cut down. See the second pic. I know the quality isn't good but it has def. been machined on the cam gears end. Can't see any machine work that has been done to the dizzy end though... So it's only the KR cams that has the cut outs under the lobes? What are the cut outs for? Happy Dubbin Hugo

Hi guys. Can someone confirm which 16v cams these are. Happy Dubbin Hugo

Hi Steve. I think i'll stay with the standard cams for now. If i do decide to get cams it will be no less than a 268/276 combo. :twisted: What gain is there by match porting the intake to the head? Worth spending money on it? :twisted:

Flusted, i'm about 12000km from the uk so that is not an option :-P

Hi David Thanks for the input. The guy who is doing the head job said that my car's bhp will increse from 136bhp, (standard form) to 150bhp, with just the head being flowed by him. Which sounds like what you mentioned aswell. The last time the car did a dyno run she made 74kw ATW (on a very stingy dyno, rather this than a dyno that inflates the figures). Which is around 100kw ATF? Which in turn means that she pushed out about 136bhp ATF. iT seems she still pushed what she did when standard, although i must say at that time the exhaust has not been fitted yet. Also this was at sea level, at the moment i'm 1000m above sea level so that will play a role aswell, and ofcause dyno's difer......

Hi guys I'm getting my head flowed next week. Just need a few pointers. The guy that does it says they are only going to polish the exhaust ports, but the intake ports will be flowed and polished. Does this sound right to you guys? How many bhp increase can i expect? Mods done so far; drilled airbox, freeflow exhaust but with standard header, and which seems to be an exhaust cam in place of the intake cam. I checked the cams for part numbers, but all i can come up with, is a 2d on the exhaust cam, and a 2e on the inlet cam. Anybody know what duration these cams are? Are they the popular kr cams? The car has a 1.8 kr bottom end, with a 2.0L 051 103 373 head. Also what is the highest lift billit cams that will work on the standard valves? Happy Dubbin Hugo

Thanks for the wuick replies guys. I will keep everything in mind what you guys said. It might be better to buy a VR6 donor, but that's quite a different price tag as to what i can get the stuff for. Anyhow i will do some more research to whatever i might need. Since i'm still not sure about the rear subframe, steering rack and cv's....etc etc etc.. If i can use my current cv's steering rack etc. it will be more than worth upgrading. And don't worry about the brakes and suspension, as this is not an area I skimp on. Thanks mates.

Hi guys. I need a ruff idea of what I will need to get the 12V VR6 engine in the bay of the 16v. What I can think of is the following. Please add if i missed a couple of things. 1. Engine 2. Tranny 3. Ecu + wiring 4. Crossmember? or not? 5. CV"S + hubs? or not? 6 vr6 bonnet...bleh... 7. Engine mountings? Which ones? Please add to the list guys, this is quite urgent as the guy i can buy the stuff from won't wait for me forever. :( :(

Thanks Mate Yeh i would never only replace one. And when discs gets replaced new pads re a must. Thanks for the quick reply.

Hi My one wheelnut hole is stripped. There is no more thread left in it. It's one of the back wheels. My question is what do i need to replace? is it the stub axle or the disc? Apologies for the beginner question. Hugo

Ok the problem is still there. I stripped the back quarter panel to get to the control unit. I checked everything and all connections seems in a good state. What else can it be? I would have taken my car to an auto electrician, but i don't like other people working on my car so i always try and repair as much as possible myself. Please help me out here guys.

Hi, Yep will ship overseas ;) Andy. Thnks Bud. I'll keep on eye on this topic, looking for one of them plug and play goodies.... 8)

Hi Mattkh No i haven't done this yet. I'm going to do it tonight to see what the outcome is. Will keep you guys updated on the outcome. Thnks