Kaktus

Yes i do. But only the factory unit. I don't have remote entrance. The central locking does not drain any power though. It's the electric windows that is the problem.

Hi Andy. Are you willing to Ship overseas? I'm keen on the 4x4 with the OEM connectors. Let me know pls.

Hi exturbo2003 There is no alarm in the car. I tested everything and the only 2 things that uses constant power is the instrument cluster and the electric windows. The instrument cluster is normal, but an almost constant drain of 0.1A from the electric windows is definately not normal..... :shock:

So the results are....... Instrument cluster uses: 0.005amps (normal) Electric windows uses: 0.094 amps (Not normal) I'm gonna need a some advice as to where i should start looking for this constant power drain from the electric windows..... The windows does not seem to get the power from the ignition, so i would like to hear your thoughts about this aswell. Is it normal for the windows to work without having to switch the ignition on? My car has been like this since i can remember.... Also, where can i start looking for this constant drain caused by the elec windows.? I know there is a control module thingybob in the rear right quarter panel. I would assume this is where the relays and stuff is located.

Thanks. I will try the alternator procedure.

Hi Guys My car's battery drain completely flat after about 5 days without driving. So last week i had my battery checked at a battery centre. They kept the battery there for 4 days and it turned out that the battery is fine. So last night i checked for a AMP drainage over the negative terminal. The amp meter tells me there is a constant 0.098-0.101 amp draw. Now my question is, is this amount of amp draw normal or is it too high? In what region should it be? Thnks Guys Hugo

Thanks David. You are of much help mate. I'll propably end up bying a 2l 16v bottom end, or complete ABF. Which one of the following will give the biggest advantage.....Worked head, or profiled cams? Ofcause they both will work best altogether, but which one should i do first?

Thanks guys. I've been reading through that 16v threat on clubgti the whole morning so far.... :D One more question. Some oakes told me that a 2E 8v bottom end can also be used? Any comments on this? What i can think of is the intermediate shaft that must be changed, will my kr one work?. The 8v dizzy hole should be plugged. And the oil pickup?

Hi guys. I've been playing with the idea of increasing my cc's to 2.0. I'm currently running 1.8 16v KR bottom end, with what seems to be a 16v head of a 9A engine. It's still running k-jet with no cams. Basically standard except for an exhaust, intake mod and the 2.0 head..I know the 1.8 head flow better, but this is how i bought the car. My question is. How would I go about to upgrade the bottom end to 2.0. I don't want to buy a complete motor, as I am satisfied with the head and the k-jet. Is it just a matter of getting hold of a 2.0 crank, and pistons to suit the job? 2nd question is: What cams can I run on the k-jet? I don't mind a little bit of lumpyness. The last question I have is. If I decide to buy a complete ABF. Will I be able to keep the k-jet? Would I have to change the exhaust header due to the increase in block height? Happy Dubbin Kaktus

Thanks Guys. I got a few plans for her. To start off with i am thinking of spending a bit of money on the suspension and brakes first. Thinking of going 280mm at the front with uprated pads all round. Then also a set of coilovers will follow that. And after that i would love to get a mk3 vr6 as a donor for a vr6 transplant. And then a full interior retrim might follow after that, or maybe get some recaros, and retrim the rest of the interior to go with them. Haven't gave the interior that much thought yet. :lol: Happy Dubbin Kaktus

Thanks Mates. I'm feeling welcome already. :-P

If I set the crank timing so that the rotor in the dizzy is on number 1, the flywheel is 180degrees out, and the camgear timing is spot on. However, if I set the crank timing so that the rotor in the dizzy is on no4, then the flywheel is spot on, but the camgear is 180degrees out. Hope it makes sense. :-P

Thanks Mate. What pisses me off the most is, the vw mechie didn't have the guts to tell me that someone fitted it wrong. Anyway, i'll try and get it sorted by someone respectable. Thanks for the help. 8)

Checked the timing last night and it turned out that the flywheel is 180 degrees out. :shock: Some newbie must have replaced the clutch before and put the flywheel wrong back on. So all i can think of is that they've set the timing on number 4 cylinder in place of number 1. :roll: Still not sure wether this can be the reason why my car is heavy on fuel. :oops:

Car has been serviced about 300 miles ago. Only thing i didn't replace was the fuel filter. But this can't cause heavy consumption though? I trus the VW dealer when i am there :roll:

Hi Steveo29 If I check the setup of my crank and cam timing tonight, and it does turnout to be spot on. What is the next best thing to do to try and get the fuel consumption back up to where it should be? Thanks for the help guys. Happy Dubbin Hugo

Thanks David. So I will check wether the crank and the cam timing is lined up to theire marks.. If they both are lined up to where they should be, and the dizzy's timing is at 6 degrees, all that's left is the co's? Btw. Won't a car be heavier on fuel the higher the co's are? Or am I confused? Thanks Bud. Hugo

Hi Guys I only recently registered on the forum, although I have been reading the forum for months now. Anyway, I have a 1.8 16v KR Corrado (UK Spec). No mods except for a 57mm stainless steel goodie. I went to the VW workshop about 6 weeks ago to get my co's and timing adjusted. However now I only manages to get about 5-6KM per Liter. That is under 20mpg for the ones who don't know km/l. This is all town driving, but still it should give me at least 25-30mpg at worst. And I am quite a gentle driver, almost granny like after I realised the consumption, so I am 100% sure it ain't my driving style. Now my question is, for a standard kr with exhaust, what should my co's be at idle, and what should it be at 3000rpm. Cause I am going to get the co's adjusted again, but I would like to stand by this time to keep an eye on the VW mechie and the co readings. Happy Dubbin Kaktus

Thanks guys. it's always nice to hear other people's opinions. :lol:

I'm from South Africa. I bought the car when I was living in the U.K. And then I exported her to here. VW never brought the Corrado to South Africa, so I have one of a few that is in the Country. Maybe ten or so in total in the whole country. Thanks mate

Thanks mate The colour is Volkswagen's Ravennablau Metallic. Wheels are Mangels Driver.

Hi guys. I'm new to the forum, so I reckoned I should introduce me and my Rado. Only finished her very recently.