8vtornado

yea ive checked earths and lives going to the pod, and i agree, thats the first thing i thought, a common earth/ live as they all went at once, but nothing seems to be wrong there. it must be some common component/ wire in the printed circuit inside. but what would cause it to just GO like that?! its rele confusing!!! wot u mean by earth blocks tho?

thats all well and good if i HAD the rev counter!!!! i know the revs/speed ratio (its diff from my g60 to ur 16v ) its a real bummer, any for sale on ebay etc are far too expensive and have like 145000+ miles, far too much for me! i first thought speedo sensor but that wudnt affect the rev counter and odo i wouldnt have thought... ill have to somehow check the input from it, ill have to check voltage with teh car in gear on a ramp. ill let u know how that goes, but first im gonna pop into vw 2moro as i have a mate in there taht wont charge me for help (hopefully!!) as for the lives n earths, with the instrument cluster removed and the multiplug removed, i stuck pins into the corresponding terminals and stuck a multimeter on them (multimeter leads dont fit into them!) it has the pin no.s written on the plug itself (small) sud be 1 at the top left, 28 at the bottom right. pin 3 and 5 are earths, pin 11 is an ignition live(i think) and pin 13 is a constant live (they may be the other way round but ull soon see) im lucky i have another car to drive but i want my g60, a 1.6 fiesta is nowhere near powerful enough!!!! blooody old cars. :( good luck.

i just pulled into a carpark the other night to meet a friend to go out driving when everything on my insturment cluster died except the fuel gauge and coolant temp. the lights are still on but i have no odo, speedo, rev counter etc, driving without a speedo is sscarey!!! its the fully electric type on a 92 g60, anyway i checked all fuses (even tho none of them seem to be to do with that) and checked the wiring goin into the back of the clocks, i have an earth at pin3 as expected, a constant live at pin11 and an ignition live at pin13 all as expected. does this just leave the pod itself? if so, i really want to keep the original mileage on it as its fairly low, if i replace the pod wot can i do about this? or can the pod i have be repaired? any ideas would be appreciated. (p.s. mods- i dont know if this post is in the right area so feel free to move it)

lol good! i changed the timing belt n tensioner on minea while back and it is awkward when u put it back thinkin "is that tight enough?" glad u sorted it. im on a mission to sort out my abs, brakes and suspension at the mo, the standard stuff (specially 15 yrs oold) aint much cop at the mo!!

LOL ive put my name down on another one now!!!! hess just checking hte part numbers, so considering they match ive said id have his. ill let u know if i want it. thanks

sweet cheers mate, ill probably twat em out!! somethings fecked in my abs system so i gotta find out one way or another!!

howd u end up gettin them out?

ill def have it if he doesnt. wot money you looking for for it? p.s what part is the common abs failure? the top bit (pump?) or ecu (bottom bit?) i dont rele know alot about these systems. thanks

thanks for the replys, ill whip it off then!!! surely if theres an exact measurement for it then it must be of some importance?

iv noticed my driveshaft damper on the o/s has perished and the outer has detached from the inner causing it to flop around and make occasional noise. my question is this; can you get a new one or do you have to get a new driveshaft? and where can i get a new driveshaft complete with damper from? and come to think of it, do i even need it? thanks

hi, i been fiddling with pshop, its my first go but couldnt decide between wheels so pshopped them, but still cant decide. comments please. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf27022008473.jpg[/attachment:3vbqxagh] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfcorrado side2 copy.jpg[/attachment:3vbqxagh] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfcorrado side copy.jpg[/attachment:3vbqxagh] corrado side4 copy.jpg[/attachment:3vbqxagh]

kinda not helpful but are you still using htis car or is it sitting in a garage for the last 2 n a half years? it looks rele nice, such a shame its got this strange problem thats stumped everyone. a car like taht should be out showing every1 what its all about!

itll probably most likely be the alternator as that gets alot stiffer when the electricity is passing thru it, but normally its stuggling for a reason, youd probably notice a battery light on or summin. a new tensioner definately shouldnt be seizing mate. good luck with that anyway.

LOL cruel!! ive decided ill leave it now. iv had the head off before and i left the manifoolds on cos i realised they were almost impossible to remove in situe! reaching over the front of the car and lifting the head with manifolds attached off carefully takes some doing too tho!! thanks for the input guys

never put stands on the sills, put them on either the chassis rails, or i tend to put them on the front subframe towards teh back of the engine, and at the rear i stick them on the rear axle. take it from me, im a mechanic! as for the problem, its a real bummer, ended up reading this thread more or less the whoole way thru (i got bored at work!) like the others said, sounds like theres a backfire coming back up into the inlet, does the inlet get particularly hot? wot cam are you running? it sounds fuel related tho, theres nothing that can now be wrong wtih teh head/block unless swarf was left in there somewhere. the sound on ur vid (sneezing) sounds like its caused by the missfire in the inlet raising pressure and then blowing out thru the isv (like overboost). have you tried different injectors in it (even if theyre standard ones still) and a standard cam (if urs is different) another thought that just occured is a sticky valve lifter occasionally holding the inlet valve open very slightly intermitantly, causing all the pressure to go back into the inlet. did you have new lifters wen you had the head work done? im just babbling now, hope this may spur u on a bit.

no Rover K series engine, pretty well known for good power to weight ratio, as well as AWFUL head gaskets and bolts (about a foot long) but id still only believe 250bhp wen i see it!!!

can you actually do the rear mount with the engine in?! the front mount must be a bit of a pain cos theres not much room in a g60 bay. i spose that is alot of work for no reason! i think ill leave it! just rele want me block to be painted cos the rest of my engine is rele clean now :D

the thing is, my engine works fine, but i may have the chance at work to whip the engine out and do woteva work at the same time, i cud change all teh engine mounts, paint the block with sum black paint (hopefully), clean up the bay a little and have a go at getting rid of the carbon canister at the same time, my questions are as follows; should i do it? is the g60 particularly awkward to whip the engine out of? with old engines is it likely something will stop working if i do this? and lastly, i was thinkin of whipping it out through the front, is this the easiest way? thanks

anyone know where i can get a set of rs4 replica wheels for 4 stud? thanks

ive had the engine in bits and its in far too good condition to have been clocked i would have thought, and i have full service history on it and it all adds up. its just strange, its as if there is not enough power from the battery when starting with the lights n stereo on so the mfa acts as if its had the battery disconnected. its all been fine the rest of the time.

i think thats a good enough excuse to de-cat.... thanks!!!!

ok thanks m4n1, il have a look at my vac pipes. ive rebuilt the head, charger, and everything is standard. how did you find the vac leak?! and yes it was off the MFA, ill have to check it properly, aint been able to afford to fill the petrol tank up, its sooo massive!!!!

i am careful and watch for that, tahts why its annoying me that it dont warm aup quick enough!!!! anyone got any ideas on the rest? ^^

nah not had it on the road long and not taken it over 4k as i rebuilt the charger. and it will heat up quicker than if it has no stat at all at the mo. i cant wait to drive it "properly" i just know i have to wait a while.... almost there!

what like just a 1.8 8v gti? id like to get an oil cooler at some point,think is it stays cool atm, oil about 90 on m'way and 98 in traffic, coolant 70 on m'way and 90 in traffic, its just that it takes too long to warm up that annoys me!