sc16v

Campaign- Go on then I'll give you that one, :lol: (allthough it must be special edition then :?: ) :D

Headlights look spot on mate 8)

Corrado values vary so much at the mo, You see untidy 16v's in trader for £1200(cheap) then at the other end you can get late vr6's £9000(overpriced) Have a look on autotrader.co.uk and gauage the value, if its been looked after then expect to pay a bit more. :D

Just wondered which you think were the greatest car battles of history and why and which one you would pick. Corrado Vs Calibra--No Contest here then. Capri Vs Manta- Capri for me looked great in the day and big V6 EVO Vs Impreza- EVO, work on them and love 'em :D :D :D

VR6_2K2- Yeah we got car back mid last week. Ended being a write off, £14,000 inital repair cost. wheels and tyres £3500 headlights £1600 pair And have a guess how much for the rear spoiler :?: :?: . IOU pint for the nearest person(without cheating) :D :D :D :D :D :D

One thing to beware of is which i'm sure you'll know about is- Jealousy of other road drivers :lol: (as you fly past them in one of the all time great sports coupe's)

Rory, no probs but on the subject of stars i did donate the other day and not recieved my 5 yet :( :? (andi) Glad the tests went ok and yes it sounds like your motor has shot it. I dont have access to ETKA parts cd so not to sure about the crossover of parts, but sure someone on here should be able to tell the score with that one. You should be able to put your res pack on though. :D

Rory- here you go mate i think vr uses the same wiring as 16v 1)remove Pass lower dash cover. 2)pull multiplug off heater casing/ res pack. 3)connect your tester to an earthing point(or brown wire on multiplug) 4)turn fan onto pos 1 then check each wire on the plug until you find a 12v circuit,(if you dont then you have a wiring or switch fault) 5) Just check the rest of the wires and turning the fan onto each pos. 6)if you have circuits on each pos then remove the res pack (can be brittle) 7) reconnect the plug, turn the fan on and test to see if you have a 12v circuit out of the res to the motor(two big wires that go onto motor) 8) if you have then it needs a motor, if you dont then it needs a res pack :D simple as that

rory im sure your not a monkey :lol: this is a corrado you will be working on :lol: Here's the first test for you(bit late to go through whole procedure know) 1)Get access to the heater Res pack (attached to the motor casing) Disconnect the multi plug, 2)Switch your tester to 12vdc. Place your black on your tester to the black or brown(earth cant remember which wire is down there) wire on the multiplug terminal and the turn the switch to on, know probe each terminal in the plug with the red tester wire until you get a 12v on your tester(ie live wire) you will either have no earth, no live =wiring /switch problem, or earth and live= Res pack or motor probs. Dont worry about damaging anything its pretty hard to break anything while testing. I'll complete this tomorrow with speific wire colours and next step :D

Funky no hard feelings mate :( about saying never use a garage without sraybooth, (how do you bake the paint (infared lamps?) just that there as hope you will agree some really dodgy bodyshops out there that just slap paint on and charge alot for it, i dont anyone on here to get ripped of with a poor job, If you know someone who is a sprayer (like Funky) then get them to do it for you as you can trust them to a proper jobby. And funky im 100% sure your paint jobs are pukka mate, bet you wouldnt have it any other way on a corrado :D

kevhaywire youve gotta be kidding matey :lol: , the corrado build quality is way above the calibra build qaulity. Unloved corrado's :( still look could after 15 years unloved calibra's you'll be lucky to find any rear wheel arches (rust) I use the word unloved as any car that is looked after and loved will last. Like they say we like C's they like Cally's pointless all of use liking the same thing :D

Rory- if the fan works only on 4 speed setting then its the resistor pack, (small matchbox shaped object on the fan casing. If no output check your fuse then, then check if you have power and earth to resistor pack outoput if you have both then its the motor, if you have live and earth in to the pack and nothing out then its the res pack. if no earth and or live check switch and wiring etc. a good place to test/or start your electrical diagnositc skills :D

Cheesy can wait to see pics 8) Rory paintwork varys from garage to garage because the quailty of work, you gets what you pay for :) , Although labour rate for bodywork is only about £25 per hour(£35 within M25) which is about half the price of mech work. its the time involved to repair, prep and paint the job that bumps the cost up, then you youve got the cost of paint, top bodyshops should have moved on to WATER based paints know as 2pack and solid clear's are becoming dated and take longer to apply and work with. plus water based is so quick drying and less odour emitted when applied. A simple met paint can cost £65 per litre but that goes a heck of along way. Then youve got expense of blending panels that near the repair work. Plus some garages are so tied in with robbing insurance companies that they only make money from private jobs so they the up the price a little. Heres a rough guide to body reairs to help people out :D Panel - Replace - Paint (x65 then x4)- Paint Labour Bonnet - 2hrs - .30L - 3.5 hrs Wing - 2hrs - .22l - 2.5 hrs door - 3hrs - .25l - 3.0hrs Rear qtr - 4hrs - .30l - 3.0hrs Bumper - 1.5hrs - .20l - 2.5hrs Roof - // - .25l - 3.0hrs Rules- 1) If repairable max of 3hrs(otherwise cheaper to replace) 2) If the repair is within 12" of the next panel, then that panel will require a blend 2hrs labour same amount as above. 3) side panel replacements (ie- doors,wings,) will need panel next to them blendins as well. Example if you were to replace a front wing. Front wing 2.0 hrs replace (2x£25) £50.00 .22l (.22 X65 X4) £58.00 paint and materials 2.5hrs paint (2.5x£25) £63.00 2.0hrs blend door (2x£25) £50.00 .25l paint (.25 x65 x4) £65.00 Total for replacing front wing and blending door =£286.00 :) (PLUS COST OF PART) Hope thats not to complicated and give some people an idea on prices they might need, They are only est fig that i work to when carrying out est, Things like condition of panels and type of job can all vary the price. NEVER use a garage without a spay booth :D

jims corrado, thanks mate yeah not seen many white ones flying about round here. spoier- as you can see the 10th digit represents the final build date, what you might though is many parts are made a year before, (eg my inlet manifold has casting mark from 1988) the vin is assinged to car at the start of production line. :)

Chuck, The heatshield is there to protect the area around from getting to hot, but you can remove it if you want, if you decide replace it you will have to remove the front pipe from the car to make it easy. The price of exhaust systems vary so much from cheaper systems of £250 up to about £500 for decent make (supersprint, remus etc) but like above you could have a custom made job. If you have loads of dosh buy a 4 branch manifold at the same time for about £300. :)

The accessory wire off the the ignition switch which runs to then radio wiring (brown/red i think) has no fuse so if it earthed during fitting then it can cause problems, :( If it did eart you have to replace the comp switch :x 1st check all fuses, Then check ign fees from ign switch on column and if no good replace switch. :) doulbe check the wiring behind the radio, if you can get it out again :lol:

Yeah you need to rev engine 3 times over 3000 rpm in a row and disconnect the blue coolant sensor, then set timing, then reconnect the sensor and rev again. Its stop corrective timing and also sets car into setting mode. see how you go, and a tip use the flywheel timing marks more accurate than crankpulley :D

Noise will 99% be the front pipe heatshield, the long bolts that pass between the pipes at the front rust and fall apart causing the sheild to rattle. So if you do buy a performance exhaust get it checked it first as many dont include the front pipe, so the rattle will still be there, Bigrim early 16v KR dont have CATS therefor no O2 sensor. Has anyone seen or heard a Supeprint "backfire" stainless steel fitted yet, priced one up £270 so would like to know any news on them.

KK013*** chassis= 1989 :lol: Spoier according to your chassis number it was built in 1990 LK chassis,( where did you get the build date from??)(just wanna make sure its the correct VIN plate for the car :?:

Only ever changed one on AAA engine (under warranty(noisey)) long time ago though, but like above they very rarely go wrong and dont need replacing by time/mileage

A common problem on the PB golfs was a broken wire in the harness that runs along the head above the gearbox. (cant remember if the loom is the same PG though). I take the fuel gauage works ok (if not voltage stabliser behind dash) :)

The two dots on the front of the camshaft pulley must line up with the mark on the back cover (about 90' round from the top). If the cover is missing then use the mark on the back of the pulley and align with face of the head itself. The crankshaft pulley is marked at the top and should align up facing straight up,(or use the marks in the gearbox end under the cover and align with the 0) The aux shaft pulley mark lines up with the cut out on the crankshaft pulley when place at 90' with each other. turn the engine over twice to check everything lines up, 8) good luck

Get your CO and HC checked to see how much its overfueling, Then start with basic settings by someone who knows the KR engine. then start looking into idle/overrun valves. :)

Mine does exactly the same, but thats down to the TOAD alarm autolock feature, just press the remote and the doors unlock, :)

just turned 25 trying to get the wife to buy a corrado or quattro at the mo!