Chris

top marks to you mate :) ive just replaced that ten minutes ago, was hoping to get the credit but you got there first lol. its the only thing apart from the fuel pump relay that will stop the engine the it has been. i will post up tomorrow and let you know how it did. thanks for the replies :)

the ignition switch is new so i cant imagine it would be that. im kind of hoping that the car dies all together so i can find the problem easier but its just so random! i will try vag com but dont think itll show anything, the car runs great its only the odd time that it does this. im just trying to list the things that would cause this problem now, im sure ill find it soon. one thing is failing and to be honest theres not much to these engines so it should be easy :) the fact that it wont start straight up for a short time period which is quite consistant each time points at a sensor failing, not something i would put down an ignition switch. its an interesting point though as it could cut the engine out but why would it not start afterwards but it can manage to turn the starter without fail? anymore input guys?

hi, over the past 2 weeks my vr6 has stalled a few times. at 0mph, at 30mph, at 40mph, even when i was going down the motorway at 70mph and accelerating it just cut out. it has done it 10mins into a journey, it has also done it 30mins into a journey. when it does this it happens suddenly without warning and i loose all power, if i put it into gear during a cut out it wont fire at all. it will start and as normal if i leave it for 30 - 60 seconds. its as if a sensor is failing then resetting. the engine itself is sweet, runs great and has been doing so since i got it on the road a couple of months back. anyone got any ideas what would cause an engine to do this? cut out randomly, hot or cold, at any speed then need about 30 - 60 seconds before it will start again? the only items i have yet to replace are, crank sensor maf lambda coil pack ht leads i cant imagine this would be a sparking issue as even if it werent running on all 6 it would still run. ive used 2 cam sensors and the problem remains. fuel pump is good, and the fuel pump relay has been changed. all my electrics are fine, or the car wouldnt run fine after the issue and some days without issue. its a sudden cut out, no rough running issues before this happens, no warning. any ideas people? would a crank, cam, maf, lambda do this to a car? its got to be a sensor of some sort?

i lubed up my 263's and lifter tops with the moly lube supplied and then gave the cams plent of oil on top filling the pools. cranked it a couple of times then ran them in at 2k for about 20mins till engine was at working temp. avoid idle on new cams when they are run up for the first time. hope you get on ok with that rear sprocket, its one tight little bastarrd!! my old cam came off second best against the vice it was in :D Chris

ill be up for a gb if the price is right.

tbh it was quite a straight forward swap for me, but you do have obd2 which i cant say ive personally wired in but cant see it being too hard. if you get ecu imob/transponder box/chipped key problems then you can send the ecu to g werks to get it un-imob'd for a good price. Tom (Toad) has summed it up unless you would like to stay with 4 stud hubs (narrow track) which i did for wheel choice reasons, then you wont need wishbones, arb, power steering rack, hubs, hub carriers, cv's + drive shafts or suspension (but you should treat yourself with this as the engine is quite a weight). if you get stuck drop me a p/m. but like mr beige has said above, if you can fix the head gasket in yours and sell for a decent price. go and buy a vr whilst they are still down in price. the reason why i did this is because i wanted the diy experience, plus my car was almost a scrap yard case awhile back. fair play if this is your reason too, its good to start small sometimes.

16v's, g60's and vr6's are all the same so this wouldnt matter. if a golf strut brace does fit, it will fit all corrados

probably the little black spoiler control box that is faulty, if the spoiler goes up and down on the switch its is more than likely the box.

has every checked there fuses? mine did this a couple of years back, everything worked but i lost all dash illumination. turned out to be a hair line crack on a fuse. worth a check.

not the one im after unfortunately, thanks for looking though :D there the babies, 37mm, ill keep that in mind, let me know how you do with them after youve run yours up. did you replace the back 2 aswell? (small and large near the intermediate shaft) i would like to replace them too, its just for peace of mind :)

can anyone help with this?

cheers guys, that answers that question :) im not too bad with a spanner but if its more of a job for an experienced mechanic ill take your word for it. i do happen to have a couple of them at my disposal so i shall enquire. any more info on fitting and prices for my reference?

is a 3.68 final drive into a vr box an easy/not too hard diy? i need to bring my gearbox to life without breaking the bank. any idea what the new & 2nd hand costs of these are too? any advice appreciated :) Chris

hello mate, ive done the vr conversion into mine. its very straight forward as long as you have all the correct parts and a good solid vr + box to start with. i was in the same boat, had a run down car and managed to pick up a dirt cheap 90k vr block + box. Its been a very worthwhile conversion for me as im happy with the vr6 itself, plus my plan has always been to go vrt. electrics are pretty straight forward, there is no fuel pump issue, the old k jet fueling loom mirrors the vr's fueling loom. its just the engine bay loom that needs to be changed (and the speedo loom). you also have the choice to keep the 4 stud wheel pattern if you choose. Insurance wise, Chris Knott have looked after me on that front, fully comp with all the mods + wheels declared, 2years no claims and an accident within the past 3 years. Just over £500, including 350 excess and all the standard cover + 90days EU driving. i thought this was pretty good! p/m me if you want any info. Chris

hello, can someone help me out with the part numbers and ETKA pictures for all the vr6 block core plugs please. i cant get ETKA to run on my laptop atm. Would be greatly appreciated! :D Chris

from previous experience mate, use your exsisting fuel pump. the 16v pump actually runs at a higher pressure which will feed the vr lump comfortablely. as for wiring it in, nothing needs to be done (just make sure you have the correct relays etc) the fuel pump looms on 16v's and vr's are pretty much the same, concentrate on the engine + transponder loom if your going obd2 straight away, thats all you have to wire in to get the engine to go. odb1 is easy to wire into a 16v fusebox, obd2 shouldnt be much more difficult as long as you have the whole kit which it sounds you do. chris

the start motor is located on/in the front of the gearbox. fairly simple to take out if you ever needed to. when my ignition switch went it started off as an intermitent problem which progressively got worse and worse. its no fun when you go to drive your car with russian roulette ignition :) you never know whether itll start

if your battery is charged its likely this is your problem, its an annoying job but its a cheap on for a change :D you can test by turn your ignition on then running a wire from the + on the battery to the single pin plug on the starter motor itself, the car will start if its only the switch that has gone. please dont leave your car in gear if you try this though :) or an :epicfail: will happen. dunno if anyone would use this, all you need to do is unplug and remove the wires, then its just 2 (upper & lower) long bolts holding it in

there is an x load relay, cant remember for the life of me which one it is though, someone must know this

youll need the calipers, carriers, pads and disks to do the conversion. they will all bolt directly onto the 16v hub assembly

i'd have the corrado over the scirocco every day of the week (unless it was a mk1 :) ) but i have got to admit, they are slowly turning me, the front end looks fantastic! looking forward to my test drive in one of these soon. come on, get that center cap painted mate! :lol: car looked stunning the another night in my driveway btw

Are butane blow-torches hot enough? Should I be trying to just heat the locknut? should be....propane or map gas will definately do the trick. its how i did mine and yes around the nut

heat is a good idea as paddy said

get some 18" or large stilsons, put the jaws around the tie rod body then use a spanner and hammer to shock the control arm nut back. if youve locked the stilsons around it properly, that tie rod will not move. you may require a helping hand from someone to hold something. tie rod ends are cheap, well worth replacing them both :) give it some stick mate :bad-words:

brake line running, thats a fun job :lol: some very useful tools indeed jon