dr_mat

I guess the single best approach to this, is to turn everything off manually, then pull fuses one by one and stick an amp-meter across the terminals to see how much current is being drained by each circuit. Even with a hefty 70Ah battery, you're only going to need to find 500 mA of current drain it in 5 days from fully charged. 250mA takes 10 days. Many many many Corrado owners who don't use the car every day find problems with batteries..

Most Corrados will drain the battery in two weeks, and you also don't know for sure that the brand new battery was fully charged. Here's the lowdown, anyway. Get a multimeter, check the voltage across the battery terminals: - when the car is NOT running, it should be 12.6 V for a full charge. - when the engine is turning, it should be 13.5 - 14.5 V If the voltage is low with the engine running, you have an alternator problem. Oh, and by the way, check the light inside the glovebox, and the light inside the boot are both going off properly ...

I believe that is called defamation. Or libel. Or something like that... :) The moment this info hits the wide world, they will get their arses sued and it'll all disappear. The definitive record of "good driving" is held on the PNC, if the insurers ever were ever to start looking at this multi-coloured-swap-shop report-your-mates kind of crap, they too would be liable for defamation charges.. It's all crap. Don't encourage them. I never cease to be amazed by the kind of utter bollocks that the web trawls up from time to time.

Since when did fuel go anywhere near the turbo? You would HOPE that the fuel gets all burnt before it comes out the exhaust pipe and hits the turbo vanes. I'm sceptical, me.. :)

I've seen parts for the 16V and 8V cars in the "generic" channels, but I've never seen exhausts for the VR or G60 on those books. I got a genuine VW exhaust from GSF for my VR. Sadly they've stopped stocking them now, but it was a bargain... I have to say you're probably right they're a false economy (I remember the annual replacement of pattern exhausts on old cars..)..

I removed it aswell after three months, cos it was a laugh, but frankly it did nothing for the performance and I got bored of the sound.. I don't have time .. but I'm sure I could if I tried.. ;)

More torque. Assuming you're not knocking and losing the advantage.. ;)

Depends on your car. As hinted at above, if your engine is tuned from the factory for 98/99 octane it will get the benefit of it, and if you put crap fuel in it will get knock and it will retard the ignition and you WILL lose power. If, however, your engine is tuned for 95 Octane, adding 98 is pointless. The VR says 98 on the flappy thing where you put the petrol in. Believe it!

Trouble is, you can't get Corrado exhausts from just anywhere, so pretty much your only choice is dealer parts or stainless from Miltek/Magnex/Supersprint et al. It's a bit crap that they don't realise this. I suppose this is the fault of the chav brigade - the stainless exhaust is a "mod" to those guys. To Corrado owners it's just a "replacement" of what's already there. Me? I bought a VW one ...

Does the magic MFA trick work on the 2.0 16v? The one where you get instantaneous MPG instead of the rolling average? I think it's something like - ignition on - press and HOLD the MFA stalk control button - ignition off (KEEP holding the button) - ignition back on (STILL holding the button) At least I think this is the sequence. You should now see instantaneous MPG. This works on the VR6, anyway ...

Ok, I stand corrected. :)

This is true, but you shouldn't be getting any knock at all. I think there's a procedure for setting the timing on the G60, and it involves bypassing the knock sensor, setting the engine up to produce no knock, then reconnecting the knock sensor to protect from crappy fuels.

Beat ya! ;)

Doesn't the G60 have knock sensors? So it can retard it's own ignition? In other words, if you have pinking at all they aren't working ... ?

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/vwt ... ning3.html This mentions idle/bucking problems on the 2.0 motronic cars and seems to point to bad connections as the cause. (Makes sense, as these bits are all solid state, mostly.)

There is, but it might be called something else.. Is it the "metering head"? Actually I was pretty sure the 2.0 engines had standard MAFs. Worth a check though. I've reached the point in my Corrado owning life where it's worth keeping a spare of each of the expensive engine sensors, just to rule it out when (not if) you start having troubles ...

Temp senders, MAF, ISV. I doubt that all these problems could be caused by the ISV, I'm much more inclined to think the engine isn't doing cold start enrichment properly (temp sensors) or isn't getting the fuelling right at fast idle (MAF). Having swapped the MAF on my VR a couple of weeks ago, I can tell you it can make a surprising difference, particularly on small throttle openings in traffic. Even if you don't think there's anything wrong with the old one ..

The 2.0 16v MFA is driven off the ECU, like on the VR, I think. This means that the ECU is calculating the number you see on the screen based on it's record of how much fuel it has put in the engine, and how far you've travelled. Does the MFA trip mileometer work ok? Sounds like your 30-35 mpg is about right for a motorway journey, so it seems that the problem lies in the ECU ...

Hmm. People running turbo/superchargers who are worried about economy... ?!

If it's gone completely flat you might need to put it on overnight at low charge amps. High charge amps on a flat lead acid battery can destroy it. Get your voltmeter out and tell us what the volts reading is across the terminals. If it's less than 12 there's little chance it'll start the car. If it's less than 11 you have at least one dry cell. If it's a dry cell you might, as Kev says, just need to top it up with distilled water. But then it'll need a nice trickle charge. Overnight should do it.

IIRC the run-on circuit is in the black box with the fuses in it that sits just in front of the expansion tank.

It's all fuelling related, by the look of it. I would ignore mates who guess things like "fuel pump sucking in air" though, frankly .. ;) Did you reset the codes and they came back? Or are you saying it's still not right? Thing with the VR. To diagnose stuff like this you've either got to swap everything till you find the broken part, or you have to sit there with a computer and an oscilloscope trying to manually figure out which component isn't sending the right info to the ECU. It's not so easy ..

I think you have a faulty MAF.

So fuelling is off, OR lambda is mis-reading. If fuel economy sucks, it's probably the lambda at fault. If not, it could be your MAF, your ISV, faulty injectors, fuel pressure .. all sorts of funky shit. Keep testing, keep scanning the codes ..

Is it VAG-COM clean now? VR engine lethargy can be MAF (despite the test you did above), or the cam position sensor. Often you have to take the car for a drive and THEN scan the codes before you turn the engine off to get a realistic reading.