dr_mat

It's worth what you're willing to pay .. If you ask an insurance company it's worth 10-15% more than a Golf VR6 of the same age, i.e. £4000. In the real world people are asking for more than that, and getting it.

Could also be a clutch problem.

Coilpack leads are shorter than dizzy leads, and have stronger metal bits (as it were). You can get a full set of OE berus in black from C&R for a good price, certainly about 60% of what VW will charge you for those red ones ..

When's the 0-60 time in less than three seconds going to be announced?

They planning on reproducing the original chromed badge, or just making a replica mould that can be body-colour painted?

Cat1 will set you back around £300 I think, but a cat2 immobiliser will only cost about £100.

Righty ho. Crank sensor is, to all intents and purposes, perfectly fine. A local guy had a good look at the VR with me today, he's a pretty good motor electrician. We had the sensor on an oscilloscope, and it's producing a nice sharp square wave, as it should. The resistance is (consistently) 550 ohms or so, within the factory spec 500-700, and the wave form doesn't decay when the car gets warm or anything. This guy reckons he's never seen a crank sensor go like this (they usually stall, and the car is hard to start afterwards). He also checked the main engine earths and they're perfectly fine, so all in all it's hard to justify going to VW to fork out cash for a perfectly good sensor. So, this leaves a few possibilities: relay 109 (refitted it, looks perfectly fine) very intermittent break in the sensor wiring the Dastek chip, which is piggy-backing off the ECU. the car has only ever had this problem since it was fitted, but that's not to say it's had this problem EVER SINCE this was fitted... Think I need to run the car without the dastek. Which is easier said than done when you don't know how to fit it...! Need to talk to Stealth about this I think.

Cool, at least they're three years younger than the C...

That was what I was expecting to happen, to be honest ... Wonder if it wouldn't be a whole lot cheaper to rip one off a late VR lump in a scrappy though. Surely they only go wrong due to old age, and my guess is the part's the same on the newer cars, no?

Hi RW1, I do get failures at low rpms too, but only under acceleration it seems. (There were stallings at junctions once or twice too, but that was months ago and very occasional - like 3 or 4 times.) The clutch was replaced when the timing chains were done (around 9 months before the first hiccup showed up), so I would hope that the sender wheel hadn't been knacked, and I don't have any clutch funnies. Time to have a shufty at it, and see if it's tight/clean I think. The only other factor was that there's a dastek chip on the engine, which if I understand correctly, sits between the ECU and it's wiring loom.

The car doesn't seem to cut out much, the problem only seems to crop up during acceleration, so the motion of the car is enough to keep the engine turning and the ECU fires the spark next full revolution, so we carry on. Just a big kangaroo thang.. Sounds like a clean-up is in order. Cheers folks!

Yeah, that's normal, or so I'm told!

Nope, not tried anything that complex so far. And now it's pissing it down, so I doubt I will be doing so for a while.. There ya go! Here's the bunny. Error goes away if you stop the engine and restart it, as I suspected, so I have to scan it when I get to the end of a journey before turning the ignition off. ---- Control Module Part Number: 021 906 258 CP Component and/or Version: MOTOR 2,8L 6-Zyl. Software Coding: PMC 1 HS Work Shop Code: 0261203565 1 Fault Found: 00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

Spoke to GPC. They can get them, but they are listed as £126+VAT from VW, and they can supply one for £96+VAT, but they point out that as an unofficial import, they wouldn't be able to offer a warranty ..

"dirty".. Good question, will have to go check. I think it's just mucky white.

L O all. Been having some major hesitancy recently (like the engine forgot to put fuel in, not a misfire as such), and scanned the engine today after a couple of hiccups on the way to work (BEFORE turning the ignition off and losing any info), and got the dreaded "Engine Speed Sensor - Implausible Signal" error. (Very specifically I didn't get the "No Signal" ..) I had a shufty around the cable clips and stuff, and noted that the sensor's cable isn't clipped into the right supports (cable doesn't seem to reach the right spot even) and I wonder if it's been routed round the wrong way..? The problem only seems to occur when suddenly opening the throttle, which would coincide with the engine moving back a bit, so I wonder if this is combining with the cable routing to cause a connection problem.. I waggled the cable around a bit with the engine running and had no problems with idle, so am sceptical about the "cable routing" theory myself, but ... I am pretty much assuming that I will need to replace it, but then comes the question - where's the best place to get one from? I hear GPC can get them, but I don't think the price was ever confirmed. Any ideas? Another thing - I notice that there's a disconnected cable hanging down from the same part of the wiring loom that the CPS connector comes from. Just a single wire, with a single plastic shielded spade terminal on the end... Not sure if that goes anywhere... Any pointers/ideas/experiences? TIA, M.

ISV? How did the battery not die after two weeks of inactivity, anyway?? Mine is usually pancake-like after a fortnight..

Ahem, as the resident doctor, I'm afraid I'm too busy at the moment. Perhaps you should call a mechanic instead, as I'm not very good with cars anyway .. :)

I've often said to people proclaiming how amazingly powerful their ST TDCi HDi CTDi IDTc DtCiI 1.9 turbo diesel is are missing the point - it's got a TURBO. Without the turbo they would be more economical and PATHETICALLY PUNY... :) Now, put a 1.9 TDi next to a Golf mk5 GTi (2.0 turbo) and the golf walks all over the TDi in performance, at all speeds, in all gears, in all respects. The only thing going FOR the TD is the economy.

Short journeys is the killer... Diesels can be started from cold, do 4 miles and switch off again, every day, month after month, and still deliver 40+ mpg. Try that in ANY petrol engine, let alone a big 2.9 lump and you're rewarded with mid-teens mpg. Long journeys and petrols can be allowed to get into their lean running reasonably economic band, and engine technology is moving on, so they're getting better. Diesel technology is aimed at getting more power out, while petrol technology is aimed at using less fuel .. The thing that makes diesels so efficient is the whole compression-ignition thing. It's running well below stoichiometric all the time because there is no need to control pre-ignition, so it uses much less fuel.

Pug parts are peanuts compared to VAG! 206 bonnet? £125 brand new, primed, from the dealer! How much is a new Golf bonnet? There may be a few exceptions, but in my experience french cars are cheaper to buy bits for than german ones.

If it's the HDi, then look very hard at the service history. They are flaky.. The older 1.9 TDi engines, however, are bomb-proof...

MPG would be about the same as the VR if driven hard, possibly better if driven carefully. Insurance would be more expensive no doubt (modified car!), repairs would be just as likely (though a lot of VRs are reaching head/rebore time). But then, there's a lot of petrol you can buy for the cost of a 20vt conversion! (In fact you could easily have your VR rebored and basically made new for the money.) And that's ignoring the indefineable value of the VR6's character.

[Just to clarify one point, not wishing to drag out any more Stealth vs VW vs whatever discussion (because I think everything relevant has been said), a cat that "fails" due to oil contamination doesn't do so because it gets blocked: the oil prevents the cat from operating correctly in the chemical sense, so although it will flow air ok, you may find that your emissions start to creep up, and it'll fail an MOT or something.] Other than this minor point, I agree with Kev actually. Stealth's +ves outweigh some of the little niggles, and that's mainly cos they're totally happy to stick hands in the air, accept responsibility and put right what may have been overlooked or gone wrong. There's just something about these Corrados. I seem to spend a lot of my time having warranty work done because of poor quality OEM or otherwise parts. Most cars I've owned it's always been much more simple. You buy a bit, you fit it, it works... It's the Corrado curse I swear ... And with you on the fuelling-killing-catalysts thing too - my VR had to have a replacement cat at 6 years and 40k miles due to a misfire that had been driven through too long...! I kid you not - I have a service receipt where they replaced the leads, plugs, coil pack .. and catalyst...

I intend to take it up with Stealth, and I'm sure they'll be extremely helpful in response. I was in fact asking for advice on the best way to get the oil OUT of the engine. How come it's such bad CF etiquette to talk about Stealth's mistakes? If it was a VW dealer we were talking about no-one here would bat an eyelid. :roll: