dr_mat
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Everything posted by dr_mat
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Nothing can be done with the UJs, AFAIK, other than to pinch them up to the rack such that they're under tension all the time, which may take the slack out of them. Trouble is it's also likely to wear them much faster than they ever wore before!
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If you can get the primed ones chromed that would be a cunning plan....
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A bit vague on the straight ahead, it wanders a bit. It varies a bit, to be honest. Load it up in a corner and it feels superb, particularly with the rack replaced. It tramlines like a bar steward though, and I'm pretty sure most of what's left with mine is the UJs..
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It would have to be truly mint for £7k.. Good mileage though, assuming it's real! It is, after all, an L reg. Top money is usually reserved for M/N plate cars, regardless of mileage and condition. The market can't see past that "10 year old car" thang...
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Yep, that was me. The mk3 Golf VR/GTi rack is the same part as the Corrado VR6 rack. It's fixed my worn rack (it used to clunk around over bumps!), but it seems that's not all of my problems fixed..
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You're on the borderline then weightwise? The VR6 isn't much heavier than the G60 I thought. It might be more difficult for you to mount it, given that it's wider at the top than the G60 engine (due to the inlet manifold etc), but I am led to believe it's at most 35kg heavier. (The rest of the car's weight difference is down to the revised box/suspension.)
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Eyeballs freezing? Common problem... ;) The service won't hurt. New plugs and less sludgey oil will help. I'm assuming that the car is turning on the starter ok, but not firing? Or it's firing but running rough? Or what? I can understand your C's complaints though. I don't like getting up when it's cold either...
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Drive slower? ;) Timing problem? Could be the lambda (I hope it's not the lambada, cos there's not much room for swinging your partner in the back of a Corrado). But the idle probs point elsewhere - the lambda isn't used at idle.
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Can you be more specific? "like having no power steering".. You mean it's just really heavy all the time? If you had NO power assist, you'd really know about it when parking...
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Tell me more.. PM me, my account was full, but I fixed that... :)
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Mr Mike Edwards: did you get my PM? (apologies for jumping into an unrelated thread!)
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If I parsed your text correctly, Craigs8vgti, yes, you might have a knackered heater matrix. But then you might also have a touch of scabies, it's kinda hard to tell without punctuation or grammar... ;)
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Good call, I've heard about this fix before, and never really "got" it. Now I do, I'll be having a closer look at mine.
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I seriously doubt that a "normal" car radio and alarm setup will draw more than 70amps. It's quite possible your alternator is knackered tho... Stick a voltmeter across it while the engine is running, it should read 13.5 to 14.5 volts. If you can apply load (i.e. stick the lights on!) and get that voltage to drop considerably, then yeah, your alternator needs looking at. VRs with air-con were shipped with 120a alternators, iirc...
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get the lower shelf out of the passenger side (6 obvious screws, dead easy), and you can reach under the heater block in the centre of the dash. You should be able to see the two bowden cables at the bottom, iirc one of those is the heat/cold control flap.
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I suspect it's fine. The first graph was cocked up. Ignore it. Your second run showing 143bhp @ wheels indicates that you're pushing at least 170bhp at the crank. Which is totally healthy! Worry about more important things! Living with Corrados means there's *always* something else you can worry about! :)
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There's a "safety valve" on the heater matrix. If the pressure in the matrix goes too low, compared to the incoming pressure, this bypasses the heater matrix altogether to prevent it being blown up. Could be this valve preventing hot water getting into your heater core. If your water pump was screwed, so would your engine be........
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You're lucky. It's much more soul destroying when it runs shite all the time, and for every thing you tick off the list of fixes, you've added another three things in the meantime...
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Shares the same reservoir as the brakes, but has it's own master and slave cylinder. It's worth flushing the fluid out of it if it's not been changed for a while, but other than that, changes to the bite point tend to indicate you need a new master or slave cylinder for it.. They're not hugely expensive new.
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VR6 belt tensioner bearing replacement - how to.
dr_mat replied to PhatVR6's topic in Suppliers Forum
They're giving you the old prices... Ring another dealer. -
uneven acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear, kangarooing motion
dr_mat replied to Jay_vr6's topic in Engine Bay
Not wishing to scare anyone, but I had similar driving symptoms once in a transit van with a blown head gasket... Running on three cylinders makes the engine very juddery and prone to stalling.. But most likely it's just a spark problem.. ;) -
Steering problem - Possible MOT failure?? - Please help!!
dr_mat replied to daveh's topic in Drivetrain
I've found that although moving the column to another setting *appears* to fix the problem for a short while, it doesn't really seem to fix anything, it just alters your perceptions for a while. I think the basic issue is that you need to tighten up the whole column, UJs and rack. -
Those will be new headlamps too, then... Much too silver and shiny to be 12 yrs old... I wonder if I can persuade someone to crash into my VR..?? :)