dr_mat

I'll swap your RX7 for my Corrado VR6... Give us more info about the RX7 first tho! :)

How many miles do you do a month? It's litres of oil / 1000 miles that's the important factor. If you're doing 12,000 miles a month 1 litre a month is really tiny!!

Every car over 50,000 miles old suffers from *some* driveline shunt!!! (Some new cars do too!) There's far more serious things to worry about than having to be a little bit careful with the clutch! Jeez Euan, you're worse than me for paranoia! ;)

Was it downhill all the way?? (Both ways!! ;) )

:!: If there were rattles or you'd had it inspected and found significant wear then of course you need to get it done sooner rather than later. Inspect first, replace if necessary. Don't believe all the scare stories though: my chains had done 117k and were close to the edge, but were rattley when they were done. There's plenty of VR6s out there that have perhaps had easier lives that are pushing 150k and only just getting to the point where they need sorting. It seems mad to condemn it now. You may have another 5 years use from the car before needing that work! By all means pay a trusted garage to open up the top inspection panel and see if there's justification for taking the rest off tho, as Kev says it's theoretically feasible for wear to be there and not cause clattering, but honestly I'd leave the decision until you know for sure. There's too many "might need replacing at 100k" items on Corrados to just speculatively replace them all! Can get mighty expensive! :)

Trouble is, it's one of those things - the only way you'll completely eradicate this is to get the gearbox and diff completely overhauled. Not cheap. It's just a thing that old cars do...

Water pump belt and timing chain gear? Opposite ends of the engine! You've made your mind up that you're gonna have the T/C done then? You didn't seem to think it was making any noises. I hope you've had it checked, this isn't a repair that you do "for fun"..

It could be either. The clutch has concentric springs that are supposed to soak up some of the driveline shunt, but a worn gearbox and diff will do this. The other thing is to make sure the engine is running tip-top because tuning can seriously effect the part-throttle response, particularly at very low revs...

So how does one fix the 100k miles+ play that develops in the steering UJs? don't say "buy new ones" they're £200+ notes...

If you stick to a "formula" you will wind up back at that £2k figure. Don't even go down that road. Real market values of Corrados are higher than the books say, ANY of the books. And mileage is less important on these cars than other types. You're wasting your time looking for a formula. Just prove your "value" point from similar cars, but try to be reasonable: if you send 'em a folder full of £3k cars with 120k miles on, expect yours to not fetch £3k from the insurance, much as you would like to think..

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... ge+mileage

That is one seriously fat exhaust (standard is 2.5") Does it catch on the rear axle ?? If it's that dimension it could probably REPLACE the rear axle...

I am beginning to think I understand why Highway were so competitive for Corrado insurance. They're using the book values as their "risk" assesment...

Get the oil changed! That's pretty low miles for it to be going iffy. It's also possible (but again, unusual) for it to be a clutch or gear change cable problem. Get the cable adjustment checked.

Well I dunno actually, Gavin, it wasn't stated in the original post.. I am just assuming here, given that's the most common problem..

Presumably you're talking about REAR calipers here? Mk4 rears are "best" in that they don't rot and the handbrake mechnsm works better than either the mk3 or mk2 parts that were fitted to 'rados. Mk4s also require custom brake hoses though - they use a slightly different fitting. Use the search though, there's a load of threads about this stuff.

You will hear it much more clearly with the seats down than normally. Don't worry unduly if it's not too intrusive when you've put all that padding back up...

Well which way does it move *from rest*? Pop the bonnet, get back in the car, put the handbrake on hard and push against it by gently lifting the clutch in both forward and reverse gears. See which way the engine moves. Up and towards the front and it's the rear mounts, back and towards the rear of the bay and it's the front mount...

Everyone makes mistakes: much as Vince and Stealth have always done good work, and I don't wish to give the impression that I think otherwise, but I drove away from there with two loose track rod ends a few weeks back. I had to take a 90 mile round trip before getting back to the garage and them re-checking the tracking and tightening them up properly!!

Did you check the VAG-COM page for the immobiliser? Has it authorised your key?

Moving a lot in which direction? The engine mounts hold the engine in three points, if the engine rocks back a lot then the front mount is knackered, if it rocks to the front-left of the car (when you're putting load on it in reverse gear) then the rear right mount is gone and if the engine rocks to the front right, then obviously the gearbox mount is gone. By "a lot of movement" what do you mean? The top of the engine might move up to an inch or so on standard, fully functional mounts, but no more than that. IMHO.

Also can be associated with leaky injectors, which may be made worse if you've just put a new fuel pump in and are now pushing the proper pressure through the lines. Do you get overfuelling smells like mad when cranking it hot? And also there's the temp sensor, but it's more likely to be something else.

I've put well over 68 litres in mine before now...

Call me slightly sceptical but I'll bet the majority of the deformation takes place during the first 20k miles. I mean, it's worth replacing them if you've got the thing in bits cos the rubber *does* degrade over time, but the physical dimension of the part is less important I'd think.

Sure it's not just condensation? It's pretty cold 'n' damp overnight...