dr_mat

If I got a flat on the front wheel it'd be easy to get the flat OFF, but it'd be completely impossible to get the non-flat spare wheel ON! So I'd be waiting for the nice man from the RAC! :(

There's a timer circuit in the run-on control relay under the bonnet. If your fans were running for an hour, the timer circuit is clearly fubar. It shouldn't run for more than 15 minutes. Not only that, but the thermal switch is probably toast too - surely the water can't remain hot enough to require fans for that long!

It's a cheap part. And yes, of course it can be changed...

Argos do one for even less: £17.99 Can a mod fix this URL business - just make the price a hyperlink?! Ta muchly.. :) You mean like this dr_mat -- jimsG60

If you're holding consistent water and oil temperatures and the engine is running fine, it's unlikely to be the head gasket. Trouble is, if it's coming out under pressure, it'll evaporate before you see any signs of it. The first point that VRs tend to blow is the hose attached to the rear of the cylinder head, underneath the cable tidy at the top of the engine. The hose that runs up to the bulkhead and enters the heater matrix. This is due to a combination of old age and soggy engine mounts causing excess flexing at the joint. Judging by postings around here I'd say the second most common is the radiator, followed by the water pumps (both) and the heater matrix.

Yeah, I've tried all kinds of angles and placings, but it just won't quite clear the front wheels (particularly with good tread on 'em). A mate's Audi A3 jack is almost identical and does the job perfectly, but then, it's a bit taller...

My jack won't lift the front wheels clear, either. Perhaps a few of us have damaged sills...? I have a trolley jack, but I don't like having to carry it around - it weighs 30kgs and bounces round the boot on corners... :(

Is there a Costco? They're stocking Bosch batteries... £35 for a 64Ah.

Ok, well by "everyone" I mean "all the garages I've been to". I have been told the horror stories of old engines being harmed by engine flush are long gone. Modern engines (ok, the VR6 may be closely related to the Ark, but it's a modern enough engine) shouldn't have trouble with it. Whether it's worth doing or not is another matter altogether... And anyway, this is all beside the point. Most likely the extra noise when the engine is warm will be down to you using thinner oil than before...

Everyone flushes engines, don't worry about the engine flush...

So it'll currently be plastered with Waxoyl then, hopefully!

Reset it again and it'll just take longer to lean out the mixture. Leave it alone!

It shouldn't effect the idle MPG. I'd check with the old calculator when you fill it up again, if I were you. Maybe there's a problem with the vacuum line to the instrument panel causing weird figures. Mind you - if you've reset the ECU, you'll find it's running a bit richer now, until it re-adjusts.

Well the big trouble is you get nothing for free. If you're pushing 180lbft torque at 3000 rpm, it requires more fuel than 140lbft @ 3000 rpm, so be careful with your right foot...

Depends how much you use the loud pedal.. I didn't really notice any difference in economy, to be honest..

I thought something was missing! Plus it's not in my box-o-bits. Stealth must have lost it! (Or it broke when they took it off!) :(

Truely? ( :-P ) You saying the supercharger couldn't feed 6 cylinders? Oh dear, never mind.. :D

Perhaps you should graft another couple of cylinders on while you're at it, Henny, make it into a *real* car... :-P ;) Joking aside, it's a bad thing, all these engines blowing. Feel for you...

Probably true - you'll be able to tell, you'll see grooves being cut into the discs if it's worn down far enough that you can hear grinding.. Oh, and it'd need to be a VERY long network cable, Jedi, cos I rarely manage to park in the same *street*, let alone outside my *house*!! :roll:

Too much to remember, jeez... Must buy a printer! :)

Right, so I gotta go buy a set of spanners, tin of plus gas, tin of copper grease (what grease should I use for the spoiler, btw?), and a caliper press to rewind the calipers, and then perhaps I can think about doing it myself..! :) Pity the local halfords only seems to sell wing mirror glasses, alloy wheels and ICE.. :roll:

Ah yes, was going to attempt the front pads+disks myself soon also, this thread is useful.. :) Now I just need to get ... all the tools!! Any other pointers for putting new disks on too? I don't like the concept of "hitting very hard with hammer", given that's my wheel bearings in there....

Soak it all in WD40 and see if that improves matters...

If it was the leads usually it'd be only a single one, or at least one would be worse than the others. Could still be the coil or the main lead from the coil to the dizzy tho.

Why not just join the Chav brigade and attach a second *exit* pipe. No need to plumb it in.. The only time anyone would tell it's not real is on cold mornings... :lol: