dr_mat
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Everything posted by dr_mat
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Well when my Corrado actually performs and handles maybe I'll shut up.
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Do they??? Jeez, who'd pay that for a Golf!!! :)
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You're putting words in my mouth.. That kind of performance is not unique in the 2nd hand car market, you can get similar straight line performance for a fraction the cost of a Corrado (£500 should do it) - but what keeps those residuals high is the rarity - that's a fact. I'm not complaining, it means I lose less on my investment too, but if the Golf 3 VR6 was fetching £5-6k at 8 years old you'd be questioning the car market.
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They *are* too expensive for an old car! Residuals are being kept high simply because of limited supply (which was primarily because they were overpriced in the first place so they didn't sell).
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Are they nincompoops or ninkempoops? ;) Don't forget the notoriously short memory.. G60 production stopped years before VR6 production stopped, so everyone remembers the VR6 more clearly.
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I wonder why all the motoring press seem to think the VR is the one to buy out of the whole Corrado range..? hehe, that should kick off another one for a day or two. ;)
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Only one cylinder head tho mate.... Does it matter? I mean either way. It's a six-banger. Whether it's a V or a straight six, it's still a SIX!
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Stick the heater on - if you get badly misty windows the matrix is bleeding steam...
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You're sure the rack's gone? It's not the track rods/ends/ball joints/wishbones/wishbone bushes? Not sure how a dodgy rack can effect your tyres though...
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The ONLY rear Corrado lights I've never heard people complaining about are the OE ones. Spray 'em/tint 'em, whatever, just don't go third-party.
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Right, finally got hold of a VAG-COM cable. (£30.99 off ebay..) OBD-ii style (i.e. late VRs only). Reading or Theale (daytime). Will travel for beer tokens. :) Now - anyone know what the O2 sensor should be reading when inlet manifold temperature is around 68 degrees..? Would it be active (it wasn't reading 1.000 all the time..)
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BTW - the pivot point is at the base of the seat, at the front (iirc), so tilting the base up *will* extend the thigh support further forward, even if it won't lift it by much. Personally I find that the wheel catches my knees all the time, so I prefer having the seat lower, tbh..
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Sounds good, I didn't mean to imply the cams weren't worth the cash.. (Though there's no way you'll catch me payin £500 for 'em!) :) Yeah, but robbo also had probs recently with the cam position sensor that were only solved by replacing the cam wheel - that's where the magnet is. Just thought it might be worth doing while the cams are out, that's all.
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You've thought of plastic surgery (I'm reminded of the life and loves of a she-devil for some reason...)?
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I wonder how many of those 364 people would actually hand over £100 or 150EUR for this stuff though..?? Limited production run I can't see it costing less, PLUS there's no way it's going to get type approval.
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You can adjust the seat base up/down, at least you can on my late heated (non-Recaro) leathers.. Without doubt I find them excellent seats - supportive for when you're chucking it about, and comfortable for long runs too. The "head rests" are completely crap though - assume you're gonna get whiplash if you get smacked from behind... :(
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I wonder whether the improved smoothness and torque delivery could be down to either the cam position sensor sender wheel replacement, or maybe the ineffable corrado-spending-time-in-garage effect. Mine is always smoother and more torquey on the way back from a garage...... :) (Mental note: must ask Vince to swap the cam position sender wheel when my tappets get (re)done.)
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Well it all comes down to: if you have uneven wear on the tyres your tyre pressure is wrong. Worn outer edges = not enough pressure, worn centre = too much pressure. Add 2/3 psi for a high speed run or up to 8 psi extra in the rear for heavy loading.
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It probably isn't a mistake, they usually do stuff like that if there's a moment of rotation and the bolt might work itself loose if it's left fitted in the standard way. Tho I could be wrong, I've not looked at the situation that closely... :)
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One tactic you forgot to mention in the foglight replacement how-to is to just leave the cable where it is - just attach it to the new lamp (assuming the cable is ok, obviously). That's what I did, saved a good 20 minutes of that half hour! Primarily cos I rated the probability of me working out where the cable went as slightly less than the likelihood of Britney Spears divorcing her new husband and marrying Ozzy Osbourne... :)
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Yup, indeed they are. I asked for one recently and a couple of folks offered me a VR6 rack 2nd hand through the forum. I'm planning on getting a new one, so I didn't go ahead, so if you want a 2nd hand, just hang on here a mo...
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If you have a version that includes RHD cars from the UK, I'd be interested too... :)
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Then the wheel/tyre sizes were all chosen so that the tyre pressure requirement was the same...
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It's nothing compared to the Dr Mat/Uncle Kev threads ... ;)
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Actually they might offer to fix it themselves! It'll be ready in 2 minutes 32.0072 seconds. :)