dr_mat

Yeah, the fuses/relays for the engine are under the dash. Can't tell you which relay numbers to check out, but it's got to be worth the tenner for a new relay first. "hall sender" wouldn't cause the engine to shut off, but would stunt your performance significantly. "engine speed sensor" could definitely cause the problem, but you'd have to VAGCOM it with the engine running to see..

More likely the gear change cables need adjusting.. It's very unusual for 5th gear synchro to go, usually it's 2nd goes first!

First things first, supply voltage too low - if the ECU isn't getting a full voltage then all bets are off as to the validity of the remaining errors. Double check the fuses and relays for the ECU. The sensors themselves don't run through the fuse board, they are connected directly via the engine wiring loom to the ECU.

Sounds like a bad wiring loom somewhere.. Sporadic faults like that? Got to be.

The original may well be balanced, but how balanced will it be when some machine shop hacks chunks off it (even if they know what they're doing)? I'd say it's a must to rebalance it afterwards. IMHO.. Ahem. :)

I know, it's just that that argument can run and run, and it's always exactly the same points coming up! :) FYI, you're right, VR 0-60 is "around 6.5", with 190bhp stock.

Some people's gauges are rubbish, but some seem to work okay - mine for example I can see that the thermostat opens at a reading of 80 during warm-up, and the engine rarely climbs above a reading of 100, which is how it *should* be.. Perhaps the gauge should be calibrated to a given temp sensor, and most aren't when retro fitted? Who knows..! :)

Hey, we don't want ANOTHER VR6 vs G60 debate you know!!

I've heard of quite a few G60s needing new conrod bearings or big end bearings though. I only go by what I've heard on this forum, to be honest. I knew pretty much nothing about the G60 till I started reading on here about the Corrado... And I'd already bought my VR6 by then..

That's annoying isn't it? My local VW specialist won't read the codes without charging "minimum labour" either. I mean, it's a 5 minute job.. After all the work I've put their way.. :x .. grrr ..

See!! :)

If you're putting over 200 lbft out, then you're pushing probably 300 lbs of FORCE through the piston, conrod and crank. Not to mention the in-cylinder pressures that cause the head gasket to blow out. (Back of fag-packet maths, by the way, don't quote me on that.) The standard engine is designed to last 100k+ miles on 160lbft. Things break when you stress them. Of course, if you replace all the engine internals, you're really talking about a different engine... The block is strong, true enough! :) And as Henny says, the charger is doing insane RPM with really small pulleys, so that will destroy it's bearings before it's time too. It's a balance...

Depends how long you want the engine to last... I've seen lots of people claim 200+, 220 in some cases. Ask the guys running 1.8Ts with 350+ bhp how long the engine lasts when you exercise that kind of power...

88 ish and 98 ish, for the two speeds, iirc. Henny knows the cooling system better than most, he can probably quote the exact figures off the top of his head... :)

And air comes with free nitrogen, too! :)

Hmm I must have missed that bit!!! Well if you are sure about the wiring, that is, then that would definitely suggest the pump is dead. You didn't seem sure about which wire was which though..

It may be that the CPS is marginal, and worked for a while but now doesn't, but I doubt it. I'd be more inclined to think it's the immobiliser, tbh.. :( It all depends what circuits the immobiliser operates on, but it wouldn't be unusual for it to immobilise the fuel pump circuit. Good fitters try to avoid using the immobiliser to kill obvious circuits like the starter and stuff. (Well it makes sense, doesn't it? Kill the starter and they've just got to bump start the car.)

If the CPS was dead, there'd be no spark.

Sounds like your immobiliser then, try the other key? Crank position sensor failure would still prime the fuel pump, so I doubt it's that.

Fuel pump shares a fuse with the spoiler, iirc. Does your spoiler work?

So that'll be the third set of wheels you've had on that car then? Nutter.. :lol: ;)

That's about what I thought. You should get very minimal leakage anyway, with good wheels, IMHO. Presumably you're buying yourself some 16" wheels then! :)

Nitrogen? I thought that was only to a) stop the wheel rusting (erm, they're alloy!), b) to stop the tyre from deflating. Or did I make that up?

VR6 timing chain needs replacing when the tensioner wears out.. And the way to tell about that is to listen for the noise from the RHS of the engine. It clatters and is at it's worst at about 1200 rpm. Usually this is at 100k miles+, but it varies.

BIG difference. That's a RED one, not a metallic. The leather and metallic paint combo is worth another £500. Plus your VR had had an engine rebuild, no?