dr_mat

Corrado VR6 left the factory with 205/50/15 tyres on it's wheels. I have NO IDEA why you might have wound up with 195/65/15s! Your speedo must be WAY out!! :shock:

I hope it didn't come with 195/65/15 tyres...

You could un-lower it.... (Radical I know, but it's beginning to look like the unique corrados are the ones on standard suspension!) ;)

I never said the 1.8T was a bad design, just that NA is the way for me, and that it's harder to get good outputs from an NA car. Sure the 1.8T probably would make a reasonable NA engine, with appropriately raised compression, but that's thanks to the development work done on the 1.8(non-T) more than the work done for the 1.8T, surely? It's also a good 5 years younger in design terms than the 12v VR6, which was designed at about the time the amoebas crawled out of the oceans and grew shells. To call it advanced is a travesty (apart from the Bosch "emission control" system attached to it.. ;) So from your statements above: with a turbo you can crank the boost knob to increase torque by some 25% of the engine's output without *serious* problems (other than a bit of longevity). NA you can't do anything without changing hardware.. WHICH WAS MY POINT! :) :) And finally: sadly I can't afford two cars, so it's EITHER VR6 or 1.8T (or TDi, actually!), so I chose the VR6, and I can't see me changing it unless it manages to click up the "p1ss off the owner" knob a couple more clicks... Unless you wanna donate a 1.8T to my collection.. ;)

Simply because if you know how turbos work ... I'm learning now, aren't I? Teach me more!! :) A straight remap as described without any other component changes will gain 40-50bhp maximum ... Right, and a straight remap (without changing any components on a N/A car will release what, exactly? 10bhp? And you're *still* telling me it's not easier to push the turbo engine? Clearly: I never commented on that. But, if we were to tell my remap man to ignore the emmissions regs and give me a fire-breathing chip for my N/A VR6 how much power would it liberate? I'm guessing 50bhp is expecting too much, yeah? I'm not talking about the 300+ bhp from 1.8T, turbo swap world, I'm talking about that +50 bhp you get from the factory engine for free (almost). Interesting facts, but I haven't changed my mind. Must try harder.. ;) Out of curiosity, where do you work, Blue Nothelle? You appear to know some stuff... :)

How did you guess?? ;)

As I understand it, 288mm golf caliper upgrade obviously requires 288mm disks too.. plus caliper carriers and new pads. Not the cheap option, I'd say! As for telling which one it is, the pros use a heat sensor - drive the car, pull up, point the heat sensor at the disk - if one side is hotter than the other it's been binding.. If it's got bad, you can probably tell with the car jacked up, just by trying to turn the wheels. Note that the pad may be still in contact with the disk when you've just stopped (even when you take your foot off the brake) - but one full turn of the wheel should be enough to free it off and it should then roll nicely. If you've really got a dodgy front caliper (it's usually the rears) then they *can* be freed off, but without overhauling them, it will come back sooner or later.. It may be better to cut your losses and get new ones..

Yeah I know that, but the turbo spins driven by exhaust gas, just like in a petrol car... Are you telling me for sure the turbo doesn't spin so fast on a diesel?

There's also the horror stories of unreliable turbos - my next door neighbour when i was a kid had an MG Metro Turbo. I'm sure it was a lot of fun, but it cost em a fortune... Of course, they've changed now, I know that. Just saying ... (How come the turbos fitted to diesel engines never seemed to show the same fragility as the petrol ones? Do they simply not spin as fast?)

Mine was in the boot, with the rest of the tool kit. Presumably it came unclipped from the bonnet stay once and they didn't wanna lose it.

.. and we come full circle... One of your potential buyers has been talking about the same car, I think, in another thread.. Funny how these things happen, huh? You really now have to set the price based on the *current* condition of the car, and assume no history. I suppose one important factor is - how long ago was the work done? 2001? That's 3 years - if there's no sign of rust or damage, and the car was "professionally" repaired (do you have record of that?), then that goes for you greatly. If the car was fixed up by "some geezer who bought it and did it himself" then that's much harder to quantify..

LOL I hope you don't still hope to be ABLE to resell the thing later!!! ;)

Sounds like a good plan! Can you clear all your error codes and try again? If they all come back, you have a very sick ABS pump unit, OR you have very bad connections to the ABS controller, causing it to think that everything else is knackered. If so many valves have gone in the pump, that sounds almost like it's had bad fluid put through it or something?

A set just sold on ebay for £110 actually. And I think they were LHD versions, tho the seller didn't clarify that in the sale (he said "from the US").. There *was* a picture, but I couldn't remember which way it should slope to tell for sure.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 7914688778

Or was I thinking about the probability of something not breaking on your corrado on a given day? ;)

I believe it's more to do with the orientation of the steering wheel relative to the queen's left thumb during overtaking manoeuvres on a tuesday in wales.

If you were getting bore wear it would be on cyl. 1 as well as 6... (probably) the nature of the beast is no-one really understands why it happens - perhaps it's to do with the end cylinders having poorer cooling, who knows?

Hi all, Anyone know if the Passat III (92>) VR6 power steering rack is the same as the Corrado VR6 one? Also, what's the general opinion on the quality of Lucas remanufactured parts...? Worth the risk for non-OE, or to be avoided? Cheers, :) M.

And they aren't cheap, IIRC..

You *are* losing oil if it's on the plugs, but it's probably not enough to be noticeable on the dipstick. It's a question of degrees of wear.. The question is - do you get any blue smoke out the back? Agreed on Stealth - they are good and VERY busy right now - they're booking for about 6-8 weeks time!

I've heard that it's noticeably slower putting larger (heavier) wheels on, so it should be noticeably quicker putting smaller lighter ones on, but I can't say by how much. It'll make most difference in lower gears. It'll make bu**er all difference in 5th on the motorway... (Apart from costing you more brake pad to slow down!)

The bump stops? Sort of spongey collars around the top of the strut? They are supposed to prevent the shock absorber from hitting it's end stop in use.

erm.. your bhp won't go up, per se. You *will* benefit from reduced transmission losses, which will mean more of the engine's power gets to the road, rather than gets used charging up your alloys with rotational inertia. It's complicated, very. It's best summarised as: if you're buying new wheels and you don't want to *lose* performance, make sure your new wheels are the same or lighter than your current set. If the new wheels are bigger, then make sure they weigh about (old size)/(new size) or less.

Assuming it's like the PCV, the Ford part numbers bear no resemblance to the VAG ones, but they're the same parts.

Being skint is what being an enthusiast is all about... :) Agreed about the diesels, they would not be anything like as popular (and I'd never consider one) without a turbo. But it *is* cheating... ;) And another point - why does everyone seem to think that you have to know HOW to make a turbo work in order to have an opinion on it? My statement is based on the fact that simply by modifying a few constants in the ECU you can increase the power of any 1.8T from it's factory output to silly numbers. Of course, reliability goes down the pan, but that's the trade off that VAG made when they shipped it in the first place. You can't do that in a N/A engine... :-P