dr_mat

Give us a hint, Henny. Just *how* long ago was that photo taken for your avatar?? (Personally I think you're nuts, but I have immense respect for your determination, mate!)

Hey, given the factions that form on this forum, perhaps we should form a splinter group for us 6-cylinder boys? The people's front of judea?

I'm well aware that bang for buck, modifying a G60 is CHEAPER than modifying a VR. But the guys' question, however, was about adding a *turbo*. I'm sure you'd agree that if you're going to the extent of adding a turbo, you can get MORE power from a VR6+turbo setup than from a G60+turbo setup. I'm not gonna answer the question on power/weight, cos it's moot. And the general consensus of opinion is that the front wheels are only good for 250bhp anyway, any more than that is a waste of time. Oh, and I'd also like to point out, it's not my argument! ;) I bought a VR6, cos at the end of the day, there's no replacement for displacement! ;)

Could be the ISV also, particularly if it sits around a lot. They have been known to stick..

Hey, this thread looks familiar.

But I'll wager you can get more power out of a turbo VR6 than a turbo G60.. ;)

The ECU has probably already been reset, if it's been left off for 15 minutes. Ok, the ECU won't have adapted to the car yet, but it shouldn't run anything like as badly as it sounds.. The bad news is that if you've got it running *that* rough, and the leads and plugs are ok, chances are it's the coil pack.. Or something more serious. You'll need to start by getting it onto VAGCOM for an error code scan, see if there could be any sensors that aren't working right (could be the O2 sensor if it's fine when cold), but that's a good starting point. (I'm assuming that by this point you've checked and have not got any obvious signs of problems - i.e. too high temps (or too low), smoke out the back, water/oil pissing out everywhere..)

Usually if the box crunches only in a particular gear, chances are that syncro is sawdust. But if you were to try the same - high revs on the box and try and get it into 4th and have the same issue, it's more likely to be cables adjustment. I'd wager that a well adjusted change, and a nicely clearing clutch would help you a lot, and would certainly help to the point where you don't think it's worth spending the £500 on a 'box recon in the next year or so.

Change the gearbox oil, then consider getting the cable change adjusted if it gets no better. If all that doesn't help, there's nothing that can be done without stripping and rebuilding the 'box. Not for the faint hearted..! You should also consider the possibility that the clutch isn't clearing properly - maybe the slave cylinder?

205bhp? Given that it's a diesel this is probably delivered at 4000rpm, so it's probably about as fast as the petrol one, if not faster! I wonder how much torque it produces? Gotta be over 300lbft...

Ok, ta. The twin electrode thing was the biggest question. I also wondered if the stock plug having the spark more "exposed" would be a benefit. The Iridium plug sparks within the electrode, the stock one sparks across the face of the plug. Be interesting to see if you get your claimed 9bhp .. ;)

Hmm. So what's the benefit/disadvantage of single-electrode vs dual-electrode? Anyone know?

All I'm saying is that that's not what Scorpion told me, unfortunately. As I understand it, they've been dropped to class 2. EDIT -well actually it's possible they're cat 1, because all they need is a battery backup on the siren, but most didn't have this.

Cheapest way to improve the 0-60 time is to rip out the interior, remove the tailgate and the bonnet and wings. Do you know how ridiculously heavy the bonnets are on these cars?? Oh, and diconnect the aux belt from the alternator and the power steering pump (get a shorter belt). You can lose 10-15bhp to the alternator without too many problems..! MUCH cheaper than anyone else's suggestions! :)

I thought we'd decided that they *used* to be cat 1 but were declassified in 1998? That's what I was told by Scorpion themselves... If you still have the certificate, then I'm sure most insurers would accept that, but without it you're probably on dodgy ground... (I can feel the ground shifting under my feet.)

I liked the Dyson idea. :( I mean, everyone says they have amazing suction! ;) :mrgreen:

Got to keep your options open...

All good info, sounds like some people round here know what they're talking about. (Unlike yours truly!) But anyway, given the flame-bait original question in the thread (you must have known this one would open old wounds!), the answer is simple: it depends. And more than that answer - buying a G60 or a VR6 is less of a decision based on performance than on what you want from the car. It's been discussed to death, so I won't repeat all the arguments. So are we all finished now?

Why don't you attach the output from a Dyson to the inlet system? Really good filtration, and good psi too... I'm sure you can get 230bhp out of a G60. Just like everyone else is. But if you're squeezing much more than that out of it it's not exactly going to run for 100k miles without requiring major internal overhauls, is it? The TT 1.8T with 225bhp has the crank and pistons of an aircraft carrier to produce that much torque and make the engine viable for 100k + miles.

Nitrous? ;)

You're "special", Henny... ;)

Really? I'll have to try that out. My ECU runs Linux, by the way. I got an extra 30 mpg when I switched over from windows, and now the car won't crash!

Don't forget you might need to add a cooling system to the ECU's CPU if you adjust this.. :)

Erm, can't see how that can work, given that the idle speed is electronically controlled by the ECU. Maybe you can trick the ECU somehow? Perhaps you can overclock the ECU...? ;)

(and if I recall the rest of the story, the replacement engine blew up within six months.. :)