dr_mat

Any more news? I'm hoping they were shipped friday or today, and are going to be here very early next week...

Found a couple of links: http://www.dealsonwheels.com/partsandac ... _id/828640 http://www.batinc.net/files/accus.pdf

I've heard this of ultrasonic injector cleaning before, it sounds like a good thing to keep up your sleeve. Not something you'd want to try "on the offchance", given that £25 each makes £150... but.. worth a thought.

Like I say, I can't remember what it's called, or even how to find it. I'll see what I can dig out...

Oh, and now I mention it, enough of the upper engine wear occurs due to acid corrosion in condensation that forms on the cold engine, that you're really not going to be able to work miracles on the engine's life just by changing the oil. The only way to get interstellar mileages out of engines like these seems to be to never ever start from cold... Which is something that not many people can manage.

Pre-warm the oil? There's an engine add-on you can buy for a couple of hundred quid that will store some pressure and fire it through the engine just before startup to make sure the oil is spread throughout and up to pressure before the pistons move. I can't remember the name of it, but even if it's £200 it'll be cheaper than 12 oil changes - which you appear to be doing in a year!

Well if it's NOT the master, the only remaining possible cause is the clutch's own return springs. And if they're fooked, it would slip continually. Yours doesn't slip, so it has to be the hydraulics, simple as that.

That'll be the bunny... :( Another one to look out for. Especially with Schrick on the way (more twisty stuff to be dealt with)...

Fair enough, no I don't have a spare pulley at the mo. I'll see what I can find..

Yeah, I imagine that might be the cause. I also imagine that at 117k it's highly likely it's not the only cause, so I'm assuming at this point that the whole lot needs doing. I am sure Vince will give me a call if he gets the lid off and finds a perfect tensioner and a knackered guide and give me the good news...

Put money aside! Mines at 117k miles now, but it's been clattering for some time (I honestly couldn't say how long). How bad are mine? Dunno, I've not seen them, but Vince reckoned the noise "wasn't the worst he'd heard"...

.. well, if your clutch is being done too, yes, that would seem to be a good time.

Aha, Jedi's real name escapes! ;) Are you thinking of attempting the chains yourself Kev? I suspect that changing the chains and tensioners is pretty straightforward, but I really don't fancy dropping a gearbox and removing the clutch myself without expert supervision!

Well, given the above two facts, not a lot...

Jedi, the drawback with the design is that you can't replace the top one without getting access to the bottom chains too.. And if you're EVER going to need to do the bottom chains (rare) you had better do it while the top chain is off!!

They do take a hammering, don't they? If you're doing the tensioner very soon, let me know, cos Vince is going to be doing my setup very shortly, and I'd be interested to try out the "new improved" tensioner!!

Yeah, every person who ever owned a Golf Mk2 (particularly GTi) always wanted a Corrado.. I've heard that a lot..

Well ... it rules out the coil pack for a start......!!

Bummer indeed, kev. That would explain the rough running I'm sure. :( How did you check the tensioner? :( I suppose looking at it like that, you've already paid Vince to take the clutch off, so at least if he's doing that in warranty from SACHS then chances are the tensioner job cost only half as much as normal.. There's always a bright side, see! :) As for your setup, sda2489, I suppose it could be the clutch - there seems to be a lot of problems with new SACHS clutches at the mo. Does the vibration occur if you rev the engine free-running with the clutch disengaged? Did you get your timing chains etc replaced when the head was off?

Yep. If it's very thin it'll burn and leak tons of the stuff and it mostly goes out the exhaust... 10w40 should be fine, however.

What grade...? 10w40? 0w35? 15w50?

Oh, and what's the difference between an "8mm" and an "M8" bolt, apart from the 8mm one being too large diameter... :?

In other words, you want the computer to drive for ya?? ;) ;)

Anyone know how to replace the steering column...?? There's four big bolts holding it to ... (* insert correct word here), and I can only see the heads of two of them from below (allan keys), I assume the other two are bolted *down* from *above*. How do I get to these? What about the bearings on the column? Can these be replaced or refurbished or even adjusted? The steering play on my column is the reason for my crappy steering feel, so it needs swapping I think.

Anyone heard of a Volkswagen 600 alarm or immobiliser system? I don't know whether it's my alarm or immobiliser, but I found it under the dash... Can't find it mentioned on the Thatcham site at the moment, but it's maybe got another name.