G60JAY

I`d leave it till you get out here. Car could get marked/scratched on it`s way. You could always bring the paint with you.

There`s a vr6 box for sale on ebay with a crack in the case.CCM i think.

Your welcome to come and have a look :D . Have you any pics of your set up in the car.

I used the internals of a golf mk3 16v box coupled with a vr6 corrado final drive and put that in to a rallye box so anythings possible . :D

Yeah, i`m running a rallye rear axle etc in a standard floor pan at the mo but i should be fitting the rallye rear floor pan soon as i need it for australian road regulations. It all works fine but they probably won`t like the fuel tank in the boot. What way are you going about it ?

It just drives much better i find and makes better use of a uprated engine. No point really having it unless the engine is around 250hp or more as it adds weight and drive train losses. It does naturally understeer but changing the suspension settings can alter this. I`ve got the back end out a few times on roundabouts etc. In your case i would go for it. At least that way you can put down the power the vr will make in all weather conditions. I`m doing a vr6 4 motion at some stage myself when i get around to. Got all the stuff, but in the wrong country.

In my opinion it`s well worth it. Been running 4wd for ages now and it comes into its own in the wet.

Thats a serious battery you`ve got there at 62ah. I`m only running a 36ah. It is 30% uprated one though. Saves a little weight and space. :)

35mm should be fine.At the moment i`m just using goodyear tyres as they were reasonable. About 55 pounds each and have had no problems yet. I used to run pirelli`s but had nothing but puntures on them.Most probably just bad luck though. Pity about the yoko`s as there a good tyre. Jason

Hi Baz I`ve been using 215\40\16 tyres for years now with no problems. I used to run a 40mm drop on it without any rubbing on the arches but not sure with 60mm. The wheel offset on the wheels are 37mm if that helps. Jason

Sounds like they fitted it badly.

Stealth is worth a try as they allways seem friendly.I don`t think much of TSR. Not only are they expensive but when they returned a rebuilt cylinder head of mine it came back with a couple of bent bearing cap studs because it was badly wraped up.

I`ve tried 205\50\15 tyres on my g60 and found the handling had lost a bit of it`s sharpness. Best to stick with the original 195\50\15.

I bought a set of discs,calipers,bolts and brackets for around 280 pounds + vat at my local seat dealer. Should be the same in other dealers.

The easyist way to get a improved 0-60 etc is with just a mk3 16v golf box.I rebuilt mine last year with vr6 1st and 2nd which works very well but does cost a bit.

The 2.8l 24v engines do have variable valve timing and variable inlet manifolds.I`m hoping to fit one in my corrado.Got all the parts, just need the time.

Have you checked that the guide pins into the caliper carrier are greesed up and moving fine.

Cheers :D

I know it looks standard but i wanted to keep it looking that way.The snorkel in the front of the air box has been replaced with a 3 1/2" inlet pipe so theres no probs with air flow and it helps to keep the noise down a little as it`s used daily.It does have a k&n panel filter in there tho.The engine was rollered at 260hp on a standard charger but it is now to stage 4 so it`s got a little more boost.Should be nearer 270hp now. Hi Jim I`m off to oz next thursday and the car should hopefully be there soon too.

Just a quick pic of my engine bay.

Mk3 16v golf one should work fine.

Here`s a good link for working out wheel speeds. http://www.nwlink.com/~vdb/vw/Transmiss ... ratio.html

Could be the water pump o-ring.You might have losened the studs holding charger bracket to the pump.

Congrat`s jim. Looks like a great motor. :)

It sounds to me like the timing is out. Double check the timing marks on all the pulleys with there corresponding marks.