gg7aph

Good find! Okay - decision made, regardless of getting my speedlines refurb'd i'll be keeping them in order to add some kudos when I finally sell the car. Thanks for your help

What have I started! The reason I ask is becasue I have a pair - in fine nick too. However, I thought about replacing them with a set of speedlines. But if they're worth something I would keep them....discuss.

Hi, What are these 'one off' alloys? http://www.volkscars.com/home/index.php ... etail&id=8 are they more desirable than VR6 speedlines? Thanks

Is this what dr_mat was on about: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VR6-INLET-MANIFOL ... dZViewItem are they a plastic disaster? PS: How the hell do you insert a hyperlink?!

I'm finally getting around to fitting those 288mm calipers I bought at the end of last summer. I've been pondering what discs and pads to get to go alongside them. In terms of discs I'm going along with what Rob said at the beginning of this thread, namely: However, the 'standard' discs that GSF sell are vented. Was this standard on a Mk 3 Golf VR6? As for pads I may stray from Rob's recommendation as I am not looking for anything more than spirited driving and may go for ECB Green Stuffs or DS2500...thoughts? However, I'm also wondering if anyone knows what the 'VW Performance Pads' for a Mk3 Golf VR6 are that GSF flog for 40quid? Are the really rubbish?

Afternoon all, I've just got some 288mm Calipers and am looking to get them fitted soon, but am pondering whether to get my suspension bushes replaced when it's in the shop to try to save some labour costs. Can I ask for a ball park price (and reputable supplier) on the below: Discs - most likey just OEM Pads - seems the Green Stuff are back in fashion? Bushes - Standard VW most likleybut I'm also tempted when reading about these TT bushes that slot straight in Anti Roll Bars - again OEM unless anyone has any recommendations Labour - How many hours do you think this little lot will take to replace? Cheers

Thank you Dr_Mat...exactly my feelings on this. MadScientist - If you'd asked your friend to sell them on your behalf you should have told him not to talk less than 80 quid. Feel free to read the thread and private message below - MadScientist may have liked 80 quid but nowhere did we agree a price. Nowhere does he mention that I to talk to 3 different people - non of which were the actual seller, just mates - and then when I got there the bloke in the house was actually asleep and I had to knock to wake him up. When i did find the property I was also forced to climb over piles of junk in his garage to get to them. If a price had been agreed I would have honoured it, but it hadn't so i simply made the fella an offer and he took it. original thread: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=62057&p=739042#p739042 (Edited for security) Private Messages Re: VR6 speedlines Sent at: 08.11.2007, 18:59 by gg7aph Hi, I've got his number (and your cash). If you want to tell him I'm be there before noon on Saturday and will call him a little beforehand to make sure he's out of bed. Thanks * Quote madscientist Re: VR6 speedlines Sent at: 02.11.2007, 12:24 by madscientist Its ******, Cheers Re: VR6 speedlines Sent at: 02.11.2007, 11:27 by gg7aph I should be there before noon....but will keep in touch to let you/him know. What's his name? thanks Re: VR6 speedlines Sent at: 01.11.2007, 15:34 by madscientist Yes mate that will be fine: His address is: 18 ******** ****** ********** Blackburn Lancs BB* *** tel: ************ Will it take you long to get there? Just give us a ring when you set off then i can make sure someone will be there to meet you. cheers Subject: VR6 speedlines gg7aph wrote: Hi - I can come and pick these up on Saturday 10th Nov from your mate in Blackburn. If you check with him that this is okay and then PM me his address and phone. Thanks gg7aph

herisites, I found this guy local - can you cast your expert over his website and let me know what you think? http://www.wonderdetail.co.uk/

I'm thinking SIlver too - or perhaps a gun metal grey if i can find it. Any thoughts on powder coating calipers and/or speedlines?

What did you decide? red or silver? I've having the same debate.... I'm also thinking about investigating getting my new (used) Golf MkIV calipers powder coated instead of painted, along with the set of original VR6 Speedlines I just purchased...discuss.....

Damn it! Why do you have to live so far away! Where you going to Uni... :lol: Anyway, my car has had a little cosmetic work done to it throughout it's life. It's not a bad job, but the paint looks a little 'flat' and also has that 'orange peel' look to it. Would a machine polish do away with this? afterwards I'd like it have the full on protection that you apply to all those cars to protect it from bird crap, tree sap and stone chips as much as possible. If ever I'm in the area I'll have to book myslef in to see you and get 'the works'.... :lol:

Hi Mate, how much does it cost for all the stuff you use for a 'silver service'?

I just got myself some original 15" speedlines. they need a refurn but I'd also be interested in getting them mirror polished. Can I see some pictures and get some guide prices? While here do they make alloys that are to be painted/powder coated out of a different grade of stuff the is intended to be mirror polished? The stuff to be painted is never intended to be seen - so why use the best? Andy

Time to wake this one back up. I too get a slight squeal form the rear when i pull away slowly in 1st - as if the brake pad indicators were squealing to tell me to change them. The brakes felt a bit vague so I took it for new pads and was told the compensator valve was seized. It was freed up and new pads put on - but i still get that squeal and, although the pads are yet to bed in, there's no real improvement in them. It's also squealing when turning tight at slow speeds, say into the driveway. My car is a completely standard VR6.

What did you use to paint them? Something like 'Barry Scott' is selling here? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Brake-Caliper-det ... dZViewItem BANG! AND THE DIRT IS GONE!

Hi, I need some clarification too. I'm looking to upgrade from standard VR6 280mm to 288mm... 1)Can these fit behind the standard 15" 5 pot speedlines? 2)Do I need to/should I upgrade to some sort of upgraded drilled/grooved disk? 3)From other threads it seems my best bet for fast road driving + longevity of pad = Ferodo DS2500? 3)After the above all I need from 'ebay' is a set of Golf mk3 vr6 callipers? I don't have speedlines at present. Running the standard Speedlines how much caliper and disk can be seen through the wheel? Although really just after a performance upgrade I'd like to consider the 'cosmetic' too. Are there any nice powder-coated calipers I can consider? Not too bling mind you.... Final question. Am I naive to think that a brake upgrade will get me a discount from my insurer as I can stop quicker?! Thanks

STOP IT! ALL OF YOU! I spoke to my wallet and she told me that I can't afford to to go about spending 750 quid on german ebay parts...no matter how much I want to. I'll have to wait until christmas and be a very good boy. Now, although I'm very pleased I've learned something new today, and started off this heated debate, my original question remains: What can I do (Other than fitting a VSR or F/I) to improve my low-down rev torque?...CHEAPLY!

Wakey-Wakey....time to open this old thread back up! Since sorting out my ISV and MAF problems and having nothing else to distract me with I'm noticing that just like some of the other posts here I get a massive 'dump' of power around 3750 - 4000 rpms. As the description details the VR6 produces it max torque output at this level. However, I it feels really 'flat' under 3750rpm and wonder if there isn't something I can do to improve low down performance? Installing a VSR sounds a little severe, mostly to my wallet through initial costs but then also additional fuel consumption, right? Anything else I can try?

I was a fuse - the one that completes the circuit for the switches in the doors. The alarm wasn't getting a signal that the doors were closed and so was going loopy....took a while to figure that one out.

I have no idea how a 16v MAF wirks, but I can tell you that by removing mine and cleaning it I somehow knacked it. I had to get a whole new one - which cleared the problem. I'm still a little unclear on your problem....your saying that at around 2000 rpm you loose power and the revs drop back down to idle?

Sorry to be a simpleton - but what is the purpose of the VAGCOM proceedure? Just to check the basic settings are all at their correct values? Does anyone in the NE have VAGCOM I can get my hands on - seems a bit extreme to take it to the stealers for this, despite the fact I want the car in tiptop nick.....

But do you do the final section that requires VAGCOM? or do you jsut do the part that states: 1) Drive from 25mph in 4th gear for at least 4 seconds with constant mid throttle (steady gentle acceleration). 2) Drive from 3,500 rpm in 3rd gear for at least 3 seconds at full throttle (hard acceleration). 3) At the end of 1) or 2), allow the Corrado to de-accelerate in the gear with the throttle closed, no brake application. 4) 1), 2) and 3) can be repeated several times. 5) At about 5 minutes, allow the engine to idle for one minute. After the initial 10 minutes, drive the car normally for a further 20 minutes minimum to allow O2 "learnt" values to be established. Idle will be complete after 10 minutes. The mid and full throttle values will take upto a further 20 minutes to establish.

I'm interested to know the answer to this one too. I had to recently replace my battery and can't help but think my VR6 has gone a little 'flat'. According to the article in the knowledge base after performing the various actions to teach the Lambda O2 values a car requires hooking up to VAGCOM.....is this true? why is this? this last part of the knoweldge base article isn't really explained.....

Cheers Ian VR6, but it wasn't actually the alarm being nutty - it was a fuse. The fuse that completes the circuit that included the door switches had died. The central locking still worked, but because the circuit was incomplete the immobiliser wasn't getting that signal and thinking the car was still unlocked and vulnerable. Anyway, Now I've reconnected the battery should I go through the ECU resetting procedure? According to this: http://the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/V ... _Procedure I need access to VAGCOM, right?

I've searched and searched - but found nothing specific. Apprently the slot under the glovebox, with the metal contacts, should reset the alarm - it does something, causing the hazards to flash and the red LED on the fob to flash, but the problem remains. I don't really want to bypass it or pull the fuse as I want to keep it active for security. I've ended up having to disconnect the battery. Does this mean I will also have to go through the ECU resetting process as described in the Knowledge base? Can this be achieved without access to VAGCOM?