Bruno

Definitely do that. What we don't discuss very often is that the quality of copper wiring used by VW in the late 80s through to the mid 90s was, frankly, poor. A lot of my engine bay faults are caused by the wiring oxidising behind the insulation; the copper wasn't pure enough before being rolled into wiring; humidity was poorly controlled when the wiring was sheathed. Both VAG and Mercedes used to use the same manufacturer for their looms and both suffered a terrible reputation for faults arising from cable harness failures. Check resistance levels from battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter. Check all the contacts carefully. There's something else - the ignition relay (IIRC it has the number 53 on it) is capable of doing exactly what you describe. It will cut a starter in the middle of turnover; and it can kill an engine suddenly. Always helpful to have a spare one of those. I'd replace it anyway and see if that helps.

Have an original VAG rack, with ski runners on it, that I bought with my VR6 in early 1995. Only ever used it once. However both the car and her Huuuuge assembly of supporting bits are presently in storage, not likely to be accessible until I've completed my move to Norfolk. PM me and check back with me in late January if you are still looking and if I can find it, we can talk.

I haven't had a G60 for a very long time, it was a post-facelift one. Owned it alongside the VR6 before it got rear-ended. Seem to remember that the duct fed down into the plastic tray (at the bottom of the wing, behind the bumper, forward of the wishbones). Problem with these trays is that they get trashed very easily by sleeping policemen. The trays on the VR6 are similar, and if you look closely there is a template marked on them to enable the hole to be cut, to enable the intake head to be fitted to the tray. From there backwards, I presume you'd fit a hose and somehow route it behind the wheel arch moulding. I could be wrong, but I also seem to remember that the later type of intake head pointed down, producing a ground facing opening behind the bumper. It didnt go to the fog light entrance, as it did on early G60s. However memory is hazy on that. It is a good idea. I have an aircon condensor in my slam panel, so no place for an IC. Please keep us notified.

Cressa is right. Best not to replace the windscreen in the same day. It is likely that the A frame will be damaged. Best to have it removed, the A pillars examined, repaired if needed, then an encapsulated screen installed with fresh top and side seals. Oh yes, the clips too.

I've had to bang heads with Autoglass before. Bit of advice. If the handler or tech gives you a problem, call and ask for customer support, explaining the problem. Make them sit up. When you change the windscreen it is important, at the same time, to replace the top and side trims, otherwise the A pillar will be subjected to rust damage - and that can kill your car. Autoglass can get hold of the trims, but if not, here is one OEM set with an Ebay seller: VW CORRADO 1989-1996 WINDSCREEN MOULDING TRIM SET INNER LEFT, RIGHT, TOP + OUTER 5055516818170 | eBay Along the top and sides, there are spacers which are used to centre the screen and make sure it sits flat on three bonded borders. Autoglass should have these on the van, because all 1990s VWs, Fords used these spacers. And yes, VAG garages have these by the boxload. However the screens and top/side trims are rare now. This thread will help you understand: Which windscreen ??? - Car Care - The Corrado Forum (the-corrado.net)

If you are on Facebook look up the Corrado Graveyard. He's got a few shells there. Should have some clips. Just a moment. These are scuttle clips. You sure you have the right part numbers? These can only be broken when the scuttle panel is removed. They have no impact on the top and sides. Are not used there. And they have absolutely no impact on the seal provided by a new windscreen. You need to get Autoglass to get the point that these particular clips are irrelevant to the windscreen's seal. Now if they cannot find the top trim and side trim thats a different matter. If you cannot find the clips locally, contact Sprinter53 on this forum. He's in Germany and makes them himself. Not cheap, but hey!

Agreed. The nozzle isnt going to make a difference. The same specific FPR is used on a Saab 9-5 in stage III, >300bhp, with no problems at all. Fendervg is right, this isnt a simple error. The 02 sensor feeds back the fuelling trim to the ECU. If the engine winds its idle speed up and down, or dies when dropping to idle, it could be that. I'd start by having the injectors out and having them tested and cleaned. Any good motorbike tuning place should have that kit.

Thank you. Will work on that as soon as the rain stops.

@CRESSA got the VAG part number for the camber adjusting bolts? Doesn't seem to be in ETKA - for Corrados or MK3s. Still flummoxed by why mine were fine before I changed the bits - and now so off that the wheels rub.

Well. Thats an interesting point. I've just pulled off the wishbones, driveshafts and track rod ends. All of them match up perfectly with OEM products. Before I took all this off, the car didnt have a problem with camber, or with the wheels fouling. @MJA.I'll PM you. Need to understand what you did....

Agreed. That tends to be the culprit. When you open the switch and clean it, fill it, and the socket pins with silicone grease. Stops oxygen accessing the contact, prevents it happening again.

five common causes of what you have (below). It can be a combination of these: Spark plug leads Cam position sensor throwing spurious errors. Lambda probe knackered or covered in oil. Leaking valve stems and/or leaking pistons on Cylinders 1 or 6. Get a compression tester test for valve leaks and piston ring blowback. ABVs tend to go through valve stems faster than AAA engines. Fuel pump weak. Given what you've described, I'd go down the list in the order given above.

Right - thats three of you pointing to the bolts. Bought some camber adjustment bolts just in case. Will report back when I've stripped it all down again

Need to clarify something. A lot seems to have been written about updating the 5 stud rear stub axles present on VR6s with stub axles and hubs from the the Polo. As I understand it, the 6N has a stub axle that bolts straight onto the Corrado beam. It can then mate with the 9N's 5 stud hub (which seemingly comes with a cartridge bearing that slips straight onto the 6N stub axle). One can then fit a 256mm vented disc, and bolt on Mk4 TT calipers - or so it seems. First came across this on vwvortex - (23) The Corrado g60/VR6 Brake Bible: The Rears | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum. What is less clear: a) Whether the Corrado VR6 rear abs sensor will fit into the 6N stub axle without drama. b) How best to source the correct type of ABS reluctor ring to fit onto the 9N hub. c) Which backplate does one fit? The Corrado one? None? Passat B4? Got the part numbers? Has anybody got through these hurdles? Thanks.

Well, its not the shocks. Thank you Cressa- mine come up with the same measurement. Not the strut bolts (they are OEM, unchanged). It isnt the springs - wheel arch at its highest point is 240mm (not surprisng for new springs). However excessive negative camber is obvious now the car's suspension has settled overnight. I dont think she needs camber bolts because she's never had an accident - I've had her since since new. Not the bearing carriers (also OEM, unchanged). So this points to the wishbones or the driveshafts. Wishbone part numbers match up correctly. Will take the driveshafts off on Tuesday to compare with the original ones.

Thanks will measure tomorrow. Cant really guage camber from just looking at it right now.

They can be removed with the screen in place. Best to purchase the entire kit. Mine was screwed up by the fitters trying to refit the original ones and cracking them in the process.

@MJA. Looks like the wishbones are the right ones. Still have their packing labels and bags. So back down to the shocks and driveshafts. This site THE Mk2 Golf Definitive Wide Tracking Thread | Club GTI suggests that the Plus axle - which the VR6s have - is 22-24mm wider on each side. Now that distance would be exactly the amount that my tyres are encroaching on the shocks. Will know in the morning. Sorry about the drama guys. Thanks for being there.

That looks like 12.5cm to the centre of that bolt from the spring pan base and 20cm to the strut base. I'm at the car in the morning. Will measure up. Thanks @Cressa. @Dox. Unfortunately silly me threw out the old struts before noticing the problem. Not my finest hour. @MJA.! Actually the monotubes are different. Just look the same on the outside. Entirely different structure. However you have a point on the wishbones. I did also change the wishbones t the same time. Just assumed the wishbones from Epytec would be good Querlenker Satz inkl. verstärkte Koppelstangen VW Corrado Golf 3 Vento VR6 GTI 16V | Epytec.de. So, darn, a third variable. I'll have to talk to them. @Cressa. Would you have the time to measure the wishbone distance from the centre of the front bolt to the inside bolt at the bottom of the bearing carrier (there are three there, I'm looking for the length to the base of that ball joint, so the one thats closest to the inside, not the two on the outside, if you get my drift)

During the clean up of the front end, changing parts which should have been routine, I ended up with the tyres fouling the spring pan. These items were changed: 1. Refurbed engine cross member. 2. New Driveshafts (ebay parts from LandR) 3. New Bilstein B4 shocks with OEM springs Kept the original steering rack, bearing carrier but did change all the ball joints in sight for OEM ones. Cleaned up the ARB. All went back on really nicely until I fitted the Speedlines (which had my original spec tyres). Two things stood out immediately as I was torquing up: Whilst still on axle stands the tyres tucked in under the spring pan of the strut, with only 0.5" to spare vertically. When the car was on the ground, the front wheels rubbed the spring pan. Haven't even tried turning the steering wheel! 🤡 I might be losing it, but I could swear that she sits much lower than she should when resting on OEM spec tyres. It seems to me that either the shock absorbers are wrong (not enough distance between the bearing carrier bolts and the base of the spring pan) or the driveshafts are short. It could be both! Both suppliers swear blind that they sent me the right products... IIRC the VR6 shafts are mean to be longer than the others meant for the Corrado but I'm currently leaning towards thinking this is a problem with the B4s. Unfortunately I dont have my original shocks any more. So cannot measure up. Do however still have my original driveshafts, so this weekend intend to take it all off again and measure up. Normally I go about my business restoring the car quietly. This one has surprised me. Researched this to the hilt before I bought the parts. Yet am facing an embarrassing mess. Any one of you guys ever experienced anything like this before? The car is not lowered (not intentionally anyway). The steering rack is original. The only non-OEM parts are the B4 shocks, poly bushes for the struts, the front springs, and the LandR driveshafts. As I see it, even if the springs were wrong, the crucial distances are determined by: The struts. If the pan to base distance is wrong the tyres would foul. The driveshafts. If too short, the tyres would be pulled further under the struts. Ideas? Does any one have an OEM setup and knows the following measurements - or can get to them quickly: From the base of the strut (the very bottom) to the base of the spring pan (where it welds onto the main shaft)? The driveshaft - any side - from the flange on the gearbox to the base of the bearing nut? One or all of these could be out. I need to know who to call and get a replacement part....

No pic yet but if you want it and can pick it up by this Friday from Whitstable in Kent for £60 it's yours! PM me

Perhaps a dip in epoxy 2 pack black paint?

This is not based on experience with VR6s. Mine comes from living with generations of Saab engines. If you havent - drastically - increased the rev limit to - say 8000 rpm, or added a supercharger or turbo to boost beyond 1.6 BAR, as long as your rebuild - if you've done one - finely balanced the moving mass of crank, rods and pistons, the basic pulley should be fine. Was there a reason for not refitting the original pully back into place? Did it get destroyed because the nut wouldn't budge? There seem to be a few second hand pulleys on the market - here's one.Corrado 2.9 VR6 Genuine VW Crankshaft Pulley | eBay I cannot see the of a lightened pulley to a road engine. Mk3s seem to have a lighter pulley. Perhaps one of the R32 chappies could chime in here- it seems to me that the R32 pulley fits straight on - looking at the parts spec on paper. Second hand it seems to cost around £60, or £350 ish new.

Wanted to resurrect this thread in the hope that someone has managed to get the 280mm vented kit inside a 15" set of wheels. I presume this involves judicious shaving on the cooling/support fins on the caliper. Anybody manage to do that properly and win?

If its a DASIS you want there is one on Ebay. Radiator, Engine Cooling AKS DASIS | eBay