Thom

Ok, cheers guys, I'll have another go at it tomorrow :?

Hi, I have been brought to expletives by the circlip holding on the brake pedal position sensor on the servo, I've tried using a mirror to see how it's removed but with no luck. This is so annoying having removed the throttle body and have the new sensor standing by ready to go in. Has anyone done this or know how it's removed without breaking the clip? Cheers :-)

Cheers for replies, sorted now though, was the loom connecting the brake position sensor, damaged where it is cable tied to another loom unneccersarily securely!

Hi all, I have a small problem with my ABSwarning light, in that, having replaced 1 dead pump and 2 speed sensors and the brake pedal switch to cure a permanently ON light. It now comes on randomly during a journey. Switching off the ignition and then on again clears it but it soon reappears, usually 10-15 mins into a drive (regardless of how heavy I am on the brake). Have hooked up a fault reader, but it doesn't seem to be able to connect to the ABS ECU, works fine with the engine ECU though. I'm thinking the next step is either the ABS relay or brake sensor on the servo....any other ideas? Cheers, 8)

Yeh, I saw that on Pistonheads a few weeks back, looked an absolute bargain with that mileage and condition! :D

Hi, I used a Halfords (maybe that explains it) rattle can, it's Dragon Green Pearlescent.

Hi, I've just resprayed the passenger door on my C, all as per the book, with laquer, and it looks a slightly different shade to the rest of the car. I put this down just to aging paintwork, is it a good idea to t-cut it back a step to dull it and then re-laquering?

Um, I slid it up and out a bit more enthusiastically, lol, :D still don't know why it's not working properly though

Actually, ignore that, I've done it! :D

Hi, just developed the old 'spoiler works on the switch but wont raise automatically' problem. speedo and manual operation are fine so looks like a dodgy spoiler module. Problem is, I can't get the cruddy thing out! Ive taken off the lower dash and disconnected the module, it looks as though it should slide up and out, but I feel I will break it when I try to move it...any ideas?, thanks :?

yes, I had a very similar problem with my Scirocco! Took the car to the garage to fix the leak and the mechanic removed/checked the fuel tank and found no problems, turned out eventually that it was air pressure inside the tank, forcing petrol through the edges of seals! Having a 1mm hole drilled through the centre of the filler cap solved this....but after the investigation cost me £100. So, ..get one of those temporary filler caps from the petrol station and see if that helps, if so that's your problem. Also, the tank may gasp when you take the cap off, hinting that the pressure in the tank is too high.

Fair enough 8)

IMO, I would only ever want an injected Scirocco (GTX/Scala i/Storm). Have driven the carb 1.8 and it's not anywhere as fun. Just a thought....

Ta, yeh I had to get the brakes upgraded for fear of death when approaching, well, anything. Have to say I really miss the accelleration, my 16v C isn't quite the same :?

My other was this Scirocco Scala, till I sold her to pay for the C, bless her, hope she's not around a tree somewhere :?

Just tried this on my bonnet, it's very shit, ...going back to colorfast

I bought a used one on ebay for £11 and it didn't work any better than the last one, but then found an ebay shop that sold me a brand new one for £40. So if you do get one off there, make shure it's being sold as a working unit!, I think from VW new they're £120ish

Hi, have bought a set of TSW Hockenhiems on ebay, they came from a Vauxhall Cavalier which shares the 4x100pcd with the VWs, however, the inside centre diameter is about 2mm less than it has to be to fit the car. Checking the model online shows that it should fit a corrado, is there any harm in filing this doen very slightly to get it on?

I bought one of the "Powerchips" ones for my 2l 16v. It's actually a pretty decent buy (I got mine for £20). The torque is slightly better low down which is all I wanted really. I don't think the fuel economy is any better as suggested on thier ad but it certainly hasn't got any worse. I would stay well clear of those resistor module things on ebay for £3ish, they just trick your ecu into increasing timing, as opposed to being part of it like a proper chip and I hear they can cause damage.

Looks like I'll need to change the oil again to a fully synthetic, the stuff I put in is only part synth, d'oh. Cheers for your help m8, appreciate it :)

I put in Castrol 80W/90 Manual, have adjusted the linkages at the gearbox end and all is well there. Also greased the shifter mechanism on top of the box.

Thanks for the advice guys, I tried the '2nd to 4th whilst giving it some thing' last night and tbh it didn't really feel any worse than normal. I think that maybe my box is just becoming worn. A contraversial one now, Slick 50?, any good for retaining some life in the gearbox? Also, I've found now that the changes are slightly easier when the engine has warmed up, but the oil is brand new so surely this should've helped

Hello everybody, I'm still having gear shift problems, I've checked adjustment, renewed gearbox oil, greased shifter mechs. Think my clutch may be going south although it feels fine to press, just seems to be scraping into 2nd and 3rd now. Any Ideas? Thanks

Cheers m8, has worked a charm ;-)

Hello, I've had a very notchy gear change for a while now (especially when cold) and so assumed that the gear oil needed changing, so have done that. Unfortunately, it's made very little difference. Thought that maybe the linkages need adjusting but here lies the snag.... With the engine not running I can move the lever into any gear position with no trouble whatsoever, it's only when running that problems start. Does this mean the problem must be with the clutch not fully engaging rather than a box fault? Sorry if this seems like a stupid question, I'm still quite new to this home mechanics thing, lol