Super-G

My power steering pump started making a knocking noise so I've replaced it with a newish looking one I found at the scrap yard on a mk3 petrol golf cabriolet. The pulley spacing is correct so I thought it'd be perfect. I've flushed the fluid, as I had red in there, and replaced it with the correct green fluid. Now my steering makes an awful groaning noise when turning, which increases with revs or steering movement. I wonder if I might have an airlock in the pump, but also wonder if it runs a different pressure. Does anyone know what could be causing this issue? I know people say the pump is specific for the G60, but thought that was just to do with the pulley spacing. Does it actually run a different pressure?

It seems GSF have a pump listed for a G60 for £139 and then with a £48 refund when returning the original pump, so quite a good price. But then they also list the same pump for a Mk2 Golf GTi. Can anybody confirm if GSF have this listed incorrectly or if it will fit my G60?

My steering pump has started making a bit of a knocking noise, so I guess the bearings have given up. Am having trouble sourcing a new one, at a reasonable price, so would appreciate others views on what to do. Can they be stripped and rebuilt? If so, do I need any special tools? Or am I better to buy a more common Golf unit and swap the mounting hubs over? (If this is even possible?) Or do I need to make an adaptor? Alternatively, does anyone have a pump going spare? Cheers, Andy

Has nobody got one spare before I start looking into how to adapt another one to fit?

Am in need of a power steering pump. Anybody got one to sell? Thanks, Andy

No way, That's three Nugget G60's in Gloucestershire. Possibly all within about 15 miles of each other!

Lucky you found it chap. Could have been a lot worse! Same happened to me a year or so back. Took me ages to work out what was up with the car. As already said, reface the crank and you should get away with just a new pulley and bolt.

Wow. Totally stunning. :salute:

Looks promising. What are the inlet and outlet pipe sizes?

Show us a picture of a focus one. I think a Sprinter one has been used before.

That really does look properly sweet. You say it doesn't rub. Have you rolled the arches? How are you finding the ride of the coilovers?

Yeah, ecconomy on a run is really good actually. Well up in the high 30's. Once you know what your doing with the engine, they're a peach to work on and they are pretty reliable for their age. Insurance wise, it was cheaper for me (27) to insure a G60 than it was to insure a 16 valve. Don't ask me why, but I didn't complain. :tongue:

Am afraid mines got a 30 in too. Runs fine without a cat and I also get power to the lambda heating wires. I'm sure 30 replaced 32.

Black rims do look good against red cars, plus they require a lot less cleaning. I do like those rims, but do they do them in the correct offset? I'd say 8" wide rim at least, with a 25 offset.

Yeah, with a few tweaks this could be very individual. I seem to remember it being stolen though, back when it was blue (Which was before it was Pink) Did that get sorted out? Or is it just hiding on Irish plates?

Your making good progress mate. Those anadised bolts take me back to my cycling days, were ever gram counted :cuckoo: They do look good, until you have to undo them a few times. Do you not find 100mm's a little too short for the vac pipe? Mine has to be 105mm, otherwise it's too tight. :shrug:

Neil, that light layer of dust isn't exactly filthy. Will take no time to clean up. You should see my engine bay :gag: What is this, water injection? :shrug: Is your running problem sorted then? What are you finding you've got high boost temps or something? Was wondering if the cossie intercooler was big enough, I'm trying to work out if I should chargecool mine or go the FMIC route?

Cheers Pete, but if you saw my car now you wouldn't think I liked to keep it clean :bad-words: The waterfall is actually down in Devon, on the edge of Dartmoor. Only wish we had photospots like that round here. Toad, I'm trying to get the wiring terminals out of the blue temperature sender plug, as my wiring snapped. I've got the rubber bung out of the back, but can't seem to release the metal connector. I guess it's got a spring tab on one side holding it in, but I can't work out how to release it. This is the plug: I guess you really need a special tool, but can it be done with a small screwdriver or paperclip? Merklin, The exhaust manifold helps the engine to rev more freely. I don't think it's done a huge amount for power on it's own, but my friends asure me it sounds amazing. In the car it doesn't sound brilliant, a bit metalic sounding (I'm sure heat wrap would have helped with that), but outside it's very different. It creates a very deep note on acceleration and a friend described my exhaust note this weekend as an alsation barking :eek: Wasn't sure how to take that, but he liked it.

Waynos, you were right, my ecu relay was knackered, and my ignition switch. But I also found my crank pulley key was warn, throwing the timing right out. So i've had a combination of problems over the last few months, but the Nuggets back and running strong. Happy days :grin: Couple of photo's Can anyone help me with these wires found behind the fusebox. Should they be connected to anything? A green plug and black and blue wire coming from behind the fusebox A yellow plug with green wire on top of the fusebox. Apart from mystrery wires, alls running well. But I am stuck trying to get the wires out of the temperature sensor connector. How are the terminals held into the plastic connector? Cheers, Andy

At last, I think I've sorted it :cheers: About a year ago, I replaced my crankshaft pulley bolt with a DX item, as I was unsure of the age of the stretch bolt in there. I did this without removing or moving the crankshaft pulley (something I wish I'd done now) and just carefully swapping the bolts over. Last week I noticed my flywheel TDC mark didn't line up with my lower timing mark on the supercharger pulley. I thought this was a bit weird and after doing some reseach, decided to removed the crankshaft pulley. Quite glad I did really, the key was totally battered on one side. The end of the crankshaft was also showing signs of where the pulley had once been loose and wobbled on the crankshaft. The keyway on the crankshaft had survived unscathed, so after refacing the crankshaft a new pulley, sourced from VW, was bolted on. I then replaced the timing belt and tension (even though they'd only done 10k :cuckoo: ), set the timing and idle up which is now rock solid at 850rpm. Here's the key on the old pulley! Thought all was sorted, but then all of a sudden the engine cuts out. Go to restart it and the fuel pump doesn't prime. :censored: Wiggled the ECU relay and it primed. Strange. Having looked through my SH I've noticed that for some reason the fusebox was replaced in 2005 and then the ecu relay was replaced with a VW item in 2006. After dropping the fuse box down and not finding anything too untoward, I took the relay apart and inspected it with a magnifine glass. I found one dry solder joint and the main power pin (30) had completely broken free of it's solder and was loose in the board. After resoldering this, all is happy again :clap: However, from behind my fusebox I have found two wires. Could anybody shed any light on them :help: This Yellow plug above the fusebox And this green plug from behind the fusebox Should they be plugged into anything, or are they there for testing somthing? Cheers, Andy

Mate, your Mk1 is a true show piece :clap: You only did 1200 miles in it. Hope you got the right money. The reason I asked about the crank pulley was just on the off chance of something I found on mine last week. The flywheel and crank marks didn't always line up, so I took the lower pulley off where I found only half a key left on the sprocket. Looks like it's come loose at some point previous to me owning it and chewed the key up. Luckily my crankshaft survived, but wish I'd taken the pulley off a year ago when I put a DX bolt on there. Propably not your issue, but just thought I'd mention it. As I now know the pain of trying to work out WTF is wrong with my G60 :bad-words: :lol:

My fingers are crossed tomorrow for you Pete. Hope you get your ticket to unleash this beast. Best of luck. Let's hope for dry roads too :lol:

That's shocking. At least you found it before it collapsed! When were the collars last moved? Is this due to FK's usings bad engineering / knowledge or a way to keep thier customers spending? After all, they don't want components to last for ever. Would expect more than 2.5 years though on a fairly expensive kit. I'd definitly speak to FK UK. Will have to check over my highsports carefully. But then, I'm not sure they've got ali coller's? Shame you sold the Mk1. How long had you had it? Out of interest, have you had the crankshaft pulley off your G60?

After playing around with the lambda plug I managed to get a fluctuating voltage signal from it. So for now that's working fine, but something else is wrong now. With everything plugged in, the idle is all over the place and the engine coughs when being driven with very gentle throttle. Unplug the ISV and it's fine. It's been cleaned out, but it wasn't that dirty as was replaced in 2005 with a new unit. I've now found in the SH that the bts was repalced in 2006 with an original VAG item, and I'm pretty sure that's reading correctly. I have noticed the ISV runs off the ECU relay, could this be causing the fault? When the cars running at idle there is a 12volt (slightly fluctating to 10 Volts) supply to the ISV plug. But it really dosen't like running with it plugged in. Does 12 Volts to the ISV fully open it or close it? The car runs fine with the ISV unplugged, but is this putting the ecu into limp mode? Obviously I'll be losing some boost through it with it unplugged, but I can't seem to get the car to run properly with the ISV removed altogether and the breather blocked off. Is this possible and how?

Nightmare. Guess you couldn't wind the COpot down to get it through the test?? You'll have to make sure the centre section isn't an oversized bore, else the new cat won't fit. When you get the de-cat off, sell it to me :-) Want to replace my Miltek third silencer de-cat crap.