Super-G

Looks gd mate. They don't make snow ploughs any finer than a C's deep spliter. Found the G quite hard work in the snow last year. Don't think it'll be out playing in the snow this year (If we get any down South) Will leave that for my mates Impreza!

Leonard that's really good. I can't even see any striping. I think all red FK Crysatals are the most modern looking tbh. However, you'll need clear crystal to start with, as I don't think FK top smoked units will look very good all red. I'm going to do my originals all red one day, just got to get the black tint off the indicator.

Ok. I think i've found out that 1 volt signal from the lambda is telling the ecu to go rich and the the lower the number it's telling it to go lean. Is this right? So is my lambda just telling the ecu to go lean or is my lambda caput and the voltage should still be cycling up and down?

I had this problem a while back. Found that it was actually the ecu relay which wasn't closing, which in turn caused the fuel pump relay not to connect. Cleaned all the contacts up and it's worked fine ever since.

I haven't changed the bts as the cars been running ok. However, today when I started her, and things were not quite right. After 30 seconds warming up, the engine note dropped considerably and struggled to idle. A bit of a play around and I found that disconecting the lambda made things run a lot better. I then measured the voltage of the lambda. When cold the signal wire from the lambda begins at 0.4Volts then gradually drops to 0.05Volts as the engine warms up. At this point the engine is struggling to idle, holding the WOT switch closed makes it struggle even more. When the lambda fluctuates between 0 and 1 volts, is the higher the signal voltage telling the ecu to go richer or leaner? I know something is wrong here, but I'm wondering if it's the probe or the wiring. I am getting 13 volts to the heater wire, (I guess this is the power for the lambda probe?) Could something else be causing the car to overfuel and the lambda is just telling the ecu to go lean? Or should the lambda signal still fluctuate? Any help appreciated :confused4:

Does look good on the new rims. Shame your having troubles. Can't u put the old ones back on for now? Be careful on those Nangkang's in the wet. Caused massive understeer problems on my old Saxo :ignore:

With the ISV disconnected it bleeds a small amount of boost continuously, but won't open if you hit 1 bar. So I wouldn't drive it too hard with it disconnected. When you unplug the blue temp sender, what happens? Sounds a similar problem to what I had a few weeks back. Is the lambda working ok?

The Nugget's going well cheers Pete. Took her on a rolling road day the other week. Showed up a few issues that are now taken care of, but a respectable result. (Must update my thread really) No where near as much power as you'll be kicking out, but it keeps the tyres scrabbling as it is. Am thinking of tucking her away soon, as it's getting cold her and I'm fed up with trying to keep her clean. :brickwall: Hope everything goes to plan over the next few months and the 32's up and running soon. Andy

Pete, that is an amazing conversion you've done. Top work :clap: Bet you can't wait for that first drive. Am sure it'll be fun :shock: Andy

Martin, Such a shame, you took the car such a long way in the last two years. Looked challenging at times, but what a massive improvement you made to the car. It really looked sweet and i'm sure it went well too. Hope the next owner will cherish it as much as you have. Top work. :salute: Are you replacing it?

Really good choice of rim. They suit the Rado so well. I thought it was still jack'd up in the photo's. Lol Will look the nuts when it's sitting on the floor

Water and oil leak, easy fix. Replace gearbox. Happy days. I'd say the supercharger history and condition would be near the top on my list. Check the knowledge base...

The bumper will not line up 100% with the late spec wings, but it's not that easy to notice. Not sure if it's the bracket thats different on the late spec models or the bumper. But the original brackets can be spaced out a bit (with washers of about 2-3mm thick) to make the wing and bumper line up a lot better.

U what. It poured out of the supercharger??? WTF.... So your inlet manifold was totally full of fuel? I guess it doesn't run then. I would not try to start it until everything is cleaned out and 100% dry. Stuck open injectors? Have you tested the injector loom?

The idle screw is actually wound all the way in and is threadlocked, so I don't think it'll be that. Will check the seal on it though. What I'm confused about, is that the revs should drop when the blue temperature sensor is unplugged, not rise like mine do. I will try changing the BTS and see what that does. (Bugger, I only just replaced the coolant) The engine pulls very smoothly throughout the rev range and the idle is as smooth as ever, just at 1000 rpm. Are there any sensor that I've missed out? Lambda Probe - 0.8 Volts Fluctuating Black Temperature Sensor - 110 Ohms at 90 degrees Blue Temperature Sensor - 210 Ohms at 90 degrees Hall Sensor - Resistance correct at ecu loom Knock Sensor - Replaced recently Idle Switch - Tested at ecu loom WOT Switch - Tested at ecu loom ISV - Tested at ecu loom (Buzz's when ign on, also makes a clicking noise. Should it?) CO Pot - Set at 550 Ohms Air Temperature Sensor (Is there one and how can I test this?) Cheers, Andy

It's weird, because the revs do drop when it's unplugged when the cars cold, but when it's up to temperature and is unplugged the revs rise from about 1000 to 1150 rpm. I'm sure I read that the increase means that another sensor is out. But which one could it be?

I serviced my Corrado G60 the other day and found a few running issues. When I unplugged the blue temperature sensor to check the timing, my idle increased rather than falling. I'm sure I've read somewhere that this means another sensor is out of range. The BTS reads 210 ohms at about 90 degrees and the Black sensor is about 110 ohms. I set the timing to exactly 6 degrees then plugged the bts back in. The idle dropped, but only to 1000 rpm. When I plugged it into the black sensor the idle dropped to about 7-800 rpm. I've checked a lot of the wiring around the engine bay and everything seems fine. Injectors and wiring checked ISV cleaned and wiring checked (I unplugged this whilst running, will I have damaged the ecu?) Idle and WOT switches and wiring checked Lambda Plug and Wiring checked Hall sendor wiring checked I'm now a little stumped what could be wrong. Any help much appreciated. Cheers, Andy

Stunning car mate. Such a transformation from when it was hit. Top job :notworthy: Stance looks spot on and the wheels set the colour off nicely. Not sure about the orange rear indicators thou. Do you use a cone filter? Was wondering because of your intercooler piping. Any chance you have a vid since removing the centre box? :grin:

Looks good mate. I like it, quite different. I too have always wondered what ATS Cups would look like on a Rado. Think this is the first i've seen.

Depends what month in 1992 it was first registered, as to whether it has to have a cat test. But the CO does look well high. What's the resistance of the CO pot?

OMG. Andy, your car is looking more awesome than ever. The paintwork is so rich and with such an amazingly deep shine. Enuff respect :notworthy:

Congratulations. Hope everything went smoothly. Looks like you got good weather. Car looks absolutely stunning and makes an interesting wedding car. I like it. I can't work out what the number plate means, any clue?

Got a few pics of the car over the past few weeks.

Mate, don't take it off to weigh it. I believe you. Honest. and i know what you mean about the throttle response. Bet it's loads better without an sharp bends and being shorter. Do you go to any meets? Here's Allisport website: http://www.allisport.com/

There's a company near Glos called Allisport. They do alloy fabrication. I'm really interested why you have chosen to go for a charge cooler instead of an intercooler. Surely your setup will weigh a hell of a lot more than just a front mount intercooler, due to the extra parts and the water? Whats the benefits of it? :scratch: