boost monkey

Well it's all back together now. After arrogantly thinking I could remember where everything went, I got well confused! :confused4: Luckily some of the pipe ends had been stained with the colour of the T-piece they were connected to as bro pointed out, so I muddled through. Cleaned the metering head whilst it was on display too, only took a quick wipe! From this: To this: :salute: going for a pootle round the ring road now, see if the MPG is gonna act right.

Hey! My vac lines are gonna give me uber boost now 8)

Waiting for them to dry now. Will go take the black vac line out which goes to the actual MFA / Dash unit.

:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: Found the blockage in my vacuum line!! Well happy :grin: Decided to strip the vac lines to clean them today, simple enough job really. Tried blowing through one of the longer pipes and couldn't! Aha. Pulled the rubber ends off it and: I know it looks small, and it is, but it must be blocking anything up to 50% of the airflow in this pipe which MUST be affecting my low MPG reading, and also must be messing with the manifold pressure signals too? For those who know 16v K-jet, it's the line which goes from the red t-piece to the vacuum rail which runs along the bulkhead and plugs into inlet manifold on the top right hand side. Can't wait to get it all connected back up again after it's cleaned out! :cheers:

Broseph, if the AFR is running too rich then the valves are more likely to run hot I think :scratch: The whole engine will run hot if it's overfuelling because of bore wash. When the excessive petrol is lit, it gives off a lot more heat obviously, and not as much power as there is not the ideal stoich. ratio of air to fuel. Think that makes sense.

Couple of odd updates today. The foam underside of my bonnet had decided enough was enough and sprinkled itself all over my engine! It was like oily sponge cake in between inlet tracts etc! :bad-words: Also, managed to lock the old 256s up at 30mph the other day when a guy came screaming all the way around the little Tesco sub-roundabout. Glad to know the anchors work on my old boat though :salute: Apart from that, not much doing. I got paid for a week of temp work, but that'll only cover July's rent so back to square one again :brickwall:

Interesting.... I can't run a cone filter on mine as the mech K-jet requires all that vacuum piping and the airbox :shrug: What does the MAF look like on your cars? Is it a single hot wire element like this | or is it a grid of hot wires like this #?

:salute: :salute: :salute: awesome read, I just realised you're the guy who posts in the definitive 16vt thread! Makes a lot of sense really :lol: loving the burgundy with boost. Does the car 'feel' slower with the 4wd system or is it still quite punchy? Keep the updates coming (when you're not playing with Evos!)

In the fear of going slightly off-topic, what are the differences apart from the side reflector things?

Just a shame it's red huh Rob? Jim? :wink:

all? :scratch:

WOAH! good work matey! So much for the runaround eh? Where did those carbs come from? :shock:

yeah, filter or pump. Do you know how to check and change the fuel filter?

sounds like you've dislodged all the vacuum pipes that spread out from the airbox, you disrupt one of these and it'll run like a bag of ass. Go looking around the throttle body, and brake servo plus underneath the air intake piping and make sure all the pipes are connected as they should be.

Early Gs had lambdas? Seems a bit odd.

There won't be a cat or bypass on an early spec car. I've seen lambda bungs right at the bottom join, where all the pipes come together.

VW Spares ones seem to change with chassis number, with the later one being rubber?

I disagree with not seeing the light. If you see a light coming on out of the corner of your eye, you instinctively look at it. The red coolant light for example. Obviously the low oil pressure lights have buzzers too which helps a lot. Going back to the petrol tank issue, the red section at the bottom of the gauge is a specific amount of petrol, 2 gallons IIRC and therefore you should have a few miles (up to 60ish?) left in the tank. The only problem with this is the gunge that gets built up in the tank near the collector. I had 1/2 of the red section left to go in my C and it spluttered to a halt. Still, at least I know that it's pretty much empty at half way through the red! :cuckoo: Maybe when I do the rear beam I'll pull it off and give it a flush out.

Fields are quite soft though, you wouldn't expect the roof to deform quite as much as rolling on a motorway :shock:

Stripped the spare cylinder head a little today, and found these: and this (still in head, hex diameter seems to be 25ish?) Also, the distributor was in really good nick: that'll help if I ever get round to sorting the ignition system on my current engine :cheers: Finding spare parts is cool :grin:

That's probs because the headlight get about 5 millivolts to them on the standard loom! :lol:

OP, I'd expect that is why it won't rev past 1500rpm because you have adjusted it so far to the lean side that there is not much petrol getting through! Don't drive it unless you can adjust the mixture back else you could break it.

Nocrap, if you mean the 3mm allen key mixture screw, sounds like the OP already played with it?

:shrug: Only my high tone works. I never press the horn.

:tumbleweed: :lol: Seriously though, well done for almost getting spotted and being forced to put up a screenshot of yourselves from the episode. How big are you guys anyways? Standing near the hamster doesn't make scaling very easy.