boost monkey

omg. omg omg o_O After reading this from page one, I can't believe I missed: fabricating your own caliper brackets (PM me about your FEA usage, I'm intrigued about the forces/restraints/boundary conditions!) making your own seats?! tons of other little bits and bobs. Pure awesomeness :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

those roly poly things look awesome fun! Is it for hire? :wink: Can't believe I missed another build thread too *flicks back a few pages*

I think over-engineered things are supposed to last?! :shrug: :wink:

Yeah they're £50 a pop! :pale: I had ordered one, but cancelled it when they phoned to confirm. Apparently they have to take a deposit on it cos they don't get ordered very much - perhaps they have them specially made? Keep going with the rear beam! Soon you will have a new car! :grin: :salute:

If my maths is strong, I reckon this should be a vertical distance of approximately 710mm (71cm).

Ok, sebrings are 6JX15 so I will take wheel width as 6".

just a teensy bit more help required now! Anyone know wheel width? That's the J number on a wheel isn't it? I might go check my sebrings - see if I can find it. Also centre point of front suspension top mounts from floor level. My C is still on a slant so I can't measure this accurately. Any help greatly appreciated. I will share with you all my calculations soon enough!

Oh yeah, Prodigal! Don't think he's been on here in a while! The missus has had him doing decorating recently :eek:

Always a good read Judith! Plus I am much envious of your battery tray :pale: :wink:

Yessssss, H reg 16v on Sebrings... only the coolest people have those 8) Awesome mate! I told Andy you got another, so no doubt he'll be on here checking it out soon! Jon.

whoever works for Varian up in Yarnton, I spotted your Green 16v when I went for a temp job interview!

Back from the grave...

Cheers mate, yeah it's nice to be able to catalogue stuff and flick back through it to see what work's been done! I forget quite a few of the little bits i've done like sorting the coil and alternator plus the water pump fiasco! I rubbed some grease into each bearing before hand, and made sure the race had a film on it too. I'm not sure when it will next see another 3-500miles but I will try to set some kind of reminder to check the rear bearing play! :salute:

Yup, but I don't mean the nut is going to slacken, I mean the pressed bearing race and the bearings themselves will bed in a bit with use and slacken accordingly. Just something to keep in mind, that's all -- you don't want to be driving around on a slack bearing for too long, and it's impossible to tell if the bearing is slack unless the wheels are off the ground. The "jaggy hats" and the nuts effectively make up what is known as a castellated nut, by the way :). (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castellated_nut) Oh i see, slack on the bearings. Interesting point! I'll bear that in mind, cheers! And castellated nuts? Doesn't "jaggy hats" sound technical enough? :nuts: Cheers matey, I'm 18months in now and would like to say I can see the light.... just the wallet in that sense! :wink:

You'll probably find the bearings slacken off after a little use, and you'll need to take it all to bits again to tighten them. Just keep this in mind if you literally have only tightened them with your fingers :). The Bentley said to tighten them until the bearings were juuust touching the races, which seemed a lot less than finger tight so I just nipped them up as best I could with my digits :confused4: I think the jaggy hats actually lock the nuts in place, as they can't turn without the cotter pin shearing. Yeah I used the old caps on my Jetta, shame i didn't have any olds to use this time!

:oops: So, I managed to grab a couple of hours (plus tools and bits) to do the rear discs and bearings today. straightforward jobs really. Yes ladies, that IS a Mk2 Golf Bentley 8) Started off by using the white spirit to rub down the bearing race faces on the inside edges of the discs - inner and outer. Shiny fresh with no swarf. Nice. Inner wheel bearing and race. The race is the tapered ring. This is pressed into the back of the disc. I don't have a press, but I do have tyte skillz. This is where it goes, fatty end in first (edge with writing on). LM Greasage should always be nearby! :luvlove: Grease that puppy up a little. Use your "pressing" skills to push it all the way down to the ledge. More grease. Pop the bearing in, make sure it's seated well and spins freely. More snot. This is the seal that keeps the bearing in the back of the discs and keeps gank out. It is your friend. Grease it up and push it in. *waits for this line to get quoted later* The top of the disc. This is where the outer bearing and race go. It is a fair bit smaller than the inner one. Mr. Outer Bearing and his friend Race. Well hello! :wave: They, too, must be seperated. You guessed it: Push that race bish right into this bad boy hole, all the way down to the lip. You'll know when you have pushed it far enough cos your hand will bleed. Shot of pressing process. Interesting stuff. Race pushed in fully. Sling some more grease in there, just for fun. Pop the bearing into the race, and grease it up until you can't even see it. The other bits and bobs that come in a febi bearing kit - funny jaggy nut hat, cotter pin and shiney coverer thing. These are the other 2 parts (with part #s!) that you will need from VAG - the special washer and retaining nut. I am well good to you. This is the disc located on the stub axle. Fresh. The order the last parts need to go on, from left to right. Washer - on. Nut - on. Only finger tight remember! Cotter pin - on. Hmm, have I forgotten something...? :scratch: Cotter pin being useful! Bend the legs back round on itself to lock the nut and jaggy hat in place. Grease up the shiny cap. Really hope that's not a euphemism. :pale: Didn't go on quite as easily as expected, but did go on eventually :D Cool! That's one side done. Now to tidy up.... ....Shank. :brickwall: Ugh, back off with the shiny cap... jaggy hat in place. Good job I have spare cotter pins! :grin: All back together, phew. And the other side! This was a lot harder than the first one; the inner bearing kept catching on a lip on the stub axle but it's done now :clap: Next up: many caliper issues! Still need to find guide pins, a handbrake spring (to replace the one I lost off the caliper I sprayed) and a few other bits and bobs. And yes, I will get some brake cleaner on those discs! :nuts:

Are you gonna change your name back to Cazza16v? :norty:

Welcome back to the party Andy! :clap:

70 pages, that's right! (God, I can waffle :nuts: ) I washed the car today, first time in *ahem* eight months *ahem*, but it does look good! The layer of dirt by the wiper blades was immense! Hoping to get to the discs and bearings tomorrow, then it's very quickly on with the carriers, calipers, handbrake cable, refill with brake fluid and all done! Hopefully... :clap:

No camber shims on fabricated uprights; they're for cast ones! Camber adjustment is done via the threaded camber pin in the upper wishbone. It allows infinite adjustment to be performed. did you do a leak down test? I thought you did..?!? Yeah I did, it's on the forum somewhere. The fact that it never smokes on overrun makes me think that it may not be rings.

good plans Kip :D I have (three) spare uprights kicking about, so I'm thinking lie them on faces and measure up to damper and WB pickup points and then between them vertically. Add a little maths magic, and boom! instant KPI :lol:

On a more engine related note, I was speaking to a guy recently who said that my low compression on that one cylinder (20 ish pages ago) may actually head related (valvetrain) and NOT piston rings as I first suspected. Thoughts? J.

Got out and put the stone shields and stub axles onto the beam today. Tomorrow will be drifting the bearing race into the discs and getting those on with the bearings too. The bits for each side: stub axle (febi) with stone shield and axle bolts plus spring washers (genuine) Painting the mating faces with POR was not my best idea ever :cuckoo: bolts took a bit more effort to go in. Everything on in order. I would have thought the shield goes behind the stub axle but Bentley told me otherwise, plus the carrier mount arms foul on the shield moulding if you try it that way. Note orientation of sprung washers (| Bolts tightened up to 44ft lb as per Bentley. Bit of LM slapped on to keep the surface nice before I can get the bearings and discs on. Hopefully tomorrow! Protective cover for the lube... Ahem.... Same procedure on the other side. Both axles covered over with tesco bags for the ghetto look. Should win some show awards with those this summer :norty:

That's a brilliant starting point, thank you mate! Jon.

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/heater_matrix_replacement.html :salute: