pete_griff

best of luck with the MOT - sure you'll be fine. car is looking great by the way - liking the new wheels even in the gold (which i wouldn't normally) by the way you didn't happen to see me in the BM around then by any chance?!? highly doubtful but i was hooning over the bridge yesterday evening around 6pm in a hurry to get home...

you can buy some stud extractors that look a bit like giant self tapping screws. essentially they are just pointy studs with a reverse thread on them. when you wind them in they grip and will try to wind the broken nipple (or stud) back out. pretty much ideal for broken bleed nipple just be sure to get some decent quality jobbies and make sure you don't snap it off in the hole seeing as you'll be using such a small one for a bleed nipple. type "reverse thread extractor" into ebay and you'll see exactly what i mean. :)

the VR brakes are 280mm as standard. the easiest upgrades you can do are the 288mm and 312mm. these use exactly the same calipers just with different carriers (obviously depending on which size you go for). the best ones to go for are probably the 288mm. it doesn't sound like much of an upgrade over the stock size, but it's not the diameter that makes the difference, it's the swept area of the pad on the disc; the old 280mm pads cover a much smaller area than the newer items that go with the 288mm and 312mm upgrades. the only things you'll need to get hold of when doing the upgrade are the calipers and carriers (obviously!), new flexi hoses, discs and pads and you'll also need some washers (about 4-6mm iirc per carrier bolt - of which there are 4) in order to space out the carriers to get the correct clearance on the discs. you can rob everything from a mk4 - the only things you'll need are the washers. obviously it's recommendedthat you get hold of new discs and pads and don't use second hand items if you're taking off a car in a breakers. the reason i would go for the 288mm option is because you can retain the original 15" wheels, if you go for the 312mm option then you'll have to run at least 16" wheels, probably 17"s - can't remember off hand the smallest size possible. also the benefit of the 312's over the 288's isn't that noticable afaik. if you're planning on running big power in future then that's the time to start thinking about brembos etc. not sure if the wiki works on this new site, but there used to be a helpful guide that even had part numbers for the 312mm conversion, the only different bits between the two conversions and the carriers, flexi-hoses and discs, the rest is all the same.

the r32 calipers may be twin pot, but they are also sliding calipers - the two pistons are on the same side! the only way you're going to get non-sliding calipers is to go for something along the lines of brembos or APs. you can do a 323mm brembo conversion from a leon cura-r (5-stud), or a 303mm (i think) conversion from an ibiza cupra (4-stud)

sounds more like a fuelling problem to me... you've got an aftermarket FPR haven't you? check that's all ok and set to the right pressure. also how many miles has your engine done - could the injectors be full of crap meaning they don't close properly and they let excess fuel into the chambers after it's stopped. that would explain why it starts fine first thing in the mornings and not once it's been running for a while...

definitely don't try and port it yourself; you're likely to do more harm than good trying to do it yourself without a flow bench and knowing whatsor of shape the ports should be adjusted to etc. the only thing that can sensibly be done at home is gasket matching the ports - that will give you a better response and is easy to do with some patience and a dremel-type tool.

missed that - happy birthday pal! hope you had a good one

very nice looking corrado there Pat have been watching the thread for a while but not replied. glad you're happy with it now. how about some eibach springs on the standard shockers if you get the chance? what plans have you got lined up for it other than the ARB? i would defo fit the ARB anyway - mine turned in lots nicer once i had my rear ARB on.

howdy Kev hows tricks? loving the recycling of the OEM headlight connectors with your loom upgrade - tidy job there :) that's quality about the DBW too, should see some nice refinements from that, plus you can mount the pedal exactly where you want it - get some heel-toe baby! (i always found the accelerator and pedal were a bit too far apart for my liking and heel-toeing was a bit uncomfy)

if you're after a good bodyshop, auto chip & dent in hereford (on beech business park in three elms) are very good that is if you're back in hereford any time to get it done... ---------- Post added at 07:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:18 AM ---------- sorry - the car is looking really good by the way! and yes, defo get the bonnet painted!

that's cool about the Gaz's - was thinking about them should i ever replace the suspension on my beemer. the car is probably a bit sloweron turn in due to the extra flex you now have in the tyres; like you said, you're best off getting it somewhere in the middle for daily driving. i bet f you stuck the rota's back on then it would bite a bit more on turn in with the trade-off of being more crashy etc... glad to hear all is well with the old girl anyhow. did you ever get your flatspot sorted?

i did just as david wort said when this happened to mine - a bit of copper pipe and two jubilee clips will soon sort it for you and allow you to drive the car normally - just without the heater. it will still pass the MOT like that as well if you need to get it done! if you're doing it yourself then set at least a day aside. it will probably take you less, but it's a fiddly job - not difficult just annoying when finding annoyingly placed screws/clips etc. also worth getting hold of some new bowden cables while you're there to be sure you don't have to re-visit the area again.

sounds a lot like your brakes have seized up. the only way you're going to know for certain is to get underneath the car and have a look! when the brakes seize, it tends to be the inside edge that gets all the wear and the outside stays relatively clean. (hence why you won't have noticed it until now). have a look at the insides of your discs - if they have seized then you'll see the discs are pitted and showing score marks from where the pads have worn right down to the metal and now you're getting the horrible graunching metal on metal noise. this happened to my corrado when i first had it, but it's defo not corrado exclusive - any old car which isn't festidiously maintained can suffer from it if the mechanics haven't bothered to put copper grease etc on. it had also happened to my M5 when i bought it - had to replace all the pads and discs shortly after buying it. they weren't worn down to the metal, but braking performance was pretty shocking when pushed hard. they were seized so badly that the carriers had grooves worn into them from the "ears" of the brake pads - you can check out some pics of just how bad it was here - http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?46731-Pete-s-M5-Fresh-Paint-inbound...&highlight=pete%27s if they have indeed seized that means you'll need new discs and pads - now would be a good time to upgrade to the 288mm or 312mm setup from a mk4 (or newer). it's not an expensive upgrade, it brakes the car much better and it will hopefully be a little less prone to seizing (especially if fitted correctly! - speak to DG Autotech for that one if you're not doing it yourself)

what the monkey says is right (and disturbingly quite a good way of describing the symptoms!)... did you remove the hub nut and take the cv joint out of the hub? you're not going to be able to feel any definitive "roughness" attributable to the bearing if you've still got the cv bolted in tight as you're also turning the whole driveshaft and hence both cv joints and the internals of the gearbox. in order to definitively say whether it's the bearing or not you're going to need to take outer the cv out of the hub and just rotate the hub on it's own.

don't know about hub nut torque off the top of my head. as for which bearing is to blame, if the noise stops when you turn right then it's the right hand bearing most likely to blame. reason being is when you're in a right turn, all the weight of the car is resisting the turn and that's why the car leans out (to the left), loading up the outer wheel - in this case the left one. does the noise get louder when you turn left? this would mean that the right hand wheel is loaded up - the one that it sounds like the bearing has potentially gone in (haven't read the rest of the thread as internet here is v slow)

howdy pal - hope you're happy with the new motor - looks very nice. interested to see what those new wheels look like. have a good day at DG pal :D

well i thought i'd get some pics up of it now it's done. there are a couple of very minor imperfections so i will take the car back to be sorted at some point, but they are only very minor and you wouldn't notice unless i pointed them out. overall very happy with the job, especially as i got mates rates. coupleof pics below. the car was cleaner, but the pics are already 3 washes after i first cleaned and waxed it due to not having time to get some decent ones after i first waxed it. caliper carriers for the brembos are being made before long, so hopefully they'll be ready for when i'm back (not meaning to pester you though pal if you're reading this!)... pics: edit - sorry they are ridiculously small; seems those are the new uploading rules??? what's going on Mods?...

car is looking fantastic pal - really pleased to hear you're happy with it. make sure you give it lots of WOT to bed those rings in nicely! can't wait to see what sort of numbers it will make now - bet you're getting excited already! :D

hey Charlie, about time we heard from you! glad to hear that the end is now in sight, even if it has taken a long time in coming. really pleased that the car has turned out so well for you - can't wait to see both you and the car when i'm back, sounds like it's very much sorted now :D and what's this thing you've got in the pipeline you tease?!?

it's funny that nothing has been done about it as yet - the old sciroccos suffered a similar issue, to the point where the bulkhead would actually give way and "tear". there's actually a small plate for a very similar area on the scirocco you can buy to reinforce/repair it - so it was obviously a reasonably well documented problem. that said, despite the fact there almost certainly isn't one for a 'rado (you'd think someone on here would have heard of it if there was...), i reckon that it would be fairly easy to make one. you'd obviously be best of using a stripped shell (or a car with no engine etc in it) as a template then work off that (i know Karl has a shell in some degree of disassembly if you ask him nicely!). i wouldn't have thought it would cost the earth to make and i'm willing to bet that if you did it then a fair few people on here would happily jump in on a groupbuy. at the end of the day it would serve to preserve the shell as well as making the whole pedal assembly feel more secure as in fairness they've never felt the best - i seem to remember you mentioning tightening up the bolts for the steering column in the same area a while ago in the "dodgy steering - a cure" thread. i would have thought that the flex in he whole area is the reason for that. plus if you did that it would serve to further insulate the interior from noise from the bay and also the heat from your spinny-snail accessory! :D i was thinking of the plate mounting on the outside - i.e. in the bay as i recon it would do more good there as you could probably get it to over a wider area more easily than intalling it inside the car. never knew that about the mk1 either! - every day's a school day! :)

I'm not sure I would tbh Pete - heard all sorts of bad things about Godspeed - expensive kit that doesn't last and virtually no aftersales service! that's interesting... i've heard his turnaround time isn't great and people can be very frustrated because he's very difficult to get hold of. i had a set of discs off him when i had my evo and i was very impressed with them. they were of a really good standard and they were pretty cheap considering the price of AP discs etc. i guess it all depends on personal experience...

oh, if you want custom discs knocking up then it would be worth getting in touch with a company called Godspeed brakes (you can google him). it's an enthusiast based company run by a guy named Ian Godney. he makes brakes for all sorts of vehicles and if you give him a call (if you ever manage to get through!) he should be able to sort you out with pretty much anything you need :D

i was going to suggest something pretty much identical until i read this. i'm sure that even if it took a few weekends that we could get enough forum members to pull this off - Karl has already offered you a good shell. seems to me like this would be the way forward. if you're not getting grief from other parties and the corrado isn't causing emotional strain elsewhere then i would say it would be a damn shame to see all your efforts so far go to someone else - honestly i still regret that myself to this day, but my car had to go or my girlfriend/parents would have dis-owned me!

i would just save the hassle and fit the Mk3 abs assembly and not obther with the MC & servo, but then that's me taking the easy way out! if you do go changing the MC & servo perhaps you could have a look into reinforcing the bulkhead in that area. i found it to be weak on all corrados - you can see the master cylinder moving slightly when you push the brake pedal and it's the same for the clutch! not only will that not be good in the VERY long run, but that won't be doing much for pedal feel either... why don't you bin the idea of the servo & MC and start there - that way you'll have less work, preserve the life of the car and do something everyone else can benefit from. just a thought obviously, but i was pretty shocked when i first noticed this on my own corrado ages ago and helping Kip_VR on his brakes the other day reminded me. on - and well done on the MOT pass, always happy with that :D

:lol: :lol: :lol: think that can be said for quite a few of us on here!