pete_griff

would i be welcome on this one with my rear-driving beasty??? have had it on the rollers there before - so i know Vince won't mind... not sure if i can make the 1st/2nd though yet due to work commitments....

afaik the standard injectors SHOULD be more than man enough to cope with the extra flow needed - you're just in need of a decent remap to get them pulsing correctly... i could be wrong here (please someone correct me quickly if this is the case), but i recon all you need is a remap. has anything else been done to the car or is it just cams? ... and yeah 276 degrees :nuts:

also sounds like you've got yourself a good excuse for a 'box rebuild and a shiny new quaife/peloquin/wavetrack... :wink:

helix organic are generally considered the best replacement, also used by most of the VRT guys on here. however.... not sure how much speculation is behind this.. but i heard that helix have gone to poo again with reference balancing their clutches before they leave the factory. it's certainly not going to be a massive drama for you to get both plates checked for balance before they go on, and certainly very worthwhile to save you any future headaches (IMO). on that note - helix friction plates are normally of fantastic quality, it's their pressure plates that are suspect - they get a standard pressure plate (normally from LuK), then take it apart, uprate the springs in it, rivet it back together and then balance it. only trouble is, aparently their balancing machine is quite temperomental and clutches can leave the workshop wildy out of balance...

another 4wd corrado eh, and this time with a turbo... - mwahahahaha! :twisted: looking forward to watching it progress buddy :D

and..... :norty: also :norty: :norty: :norty: will be watching with interest Karl! :D of all the people - trust you to come up with that mr Haywire! :lol:

agreed!

that's good you're fitting a front grille to make things a bit more subtle - big fan of that idea :D fair one about not hiding the brakes too i guess after the effort of drilling discs, fabricating carriers etc etc agreed you can't have brakes that are too large - still think the rears are a touch over-kill for the application, but that's only my opinion and i certainly don't want to detract from the fact that you've done a cracking job with the build - all looks top notch :clap: not too sure about that... that turbo will be getting the oil nice and warm for you when you're pushing the car at full-chat. you'll undoubtedly keep temps nicely under control using the 16-row, but i think that low 90's is a bit optimistic... cheers again for the update - always enjoy reading your thread. bet you can't wait to get it mapped and get some miles under the wheels! fair play to you for your patience and doing things properly - i would be like a giddly little school boy wanting to drive it as soon as i possibly could! :nuts:

glad you're happy with it - always like to see updates on this motor :D

you can also use a screwdriver - put the blade on the part you suspect and put your ear on the handle end. sounds daft, but it works! also, it's only a question of winding a bolt into the tensioner to take the belt off. once the belt is off you can rotate the individual pullies by hand to find out where the problem is by "feel". my guess would be the tensioner pulley though as they are known for going on vr6's. on that note if you do need to change it, you can get away with just changing the bearing inside the pulley by pressing it out and a new one in - that is obviously if the pulley is in good enough condition to warrant keeping it and not replacing the unit...

one thing with the boxer engines - apparently they can be quite sensitive to damage when doing oil changes. if not done correctly, the bearings/crank can wear very prematurely - apparently! the oil filter screws on directly vertically, in order to allow the filter to be filled up with oil before it goes on. once it's on an you've re-filled the car with oil, disconnect the crank sensor (just above/behind the alternator on the ej20/ej25 engines - uncertain about the 6-potter...) and then wind the engine over on the starter to get the oil pressure back up before starting. (an even more friendly way is to remove the plugs too, so not to put any pressure on the bearings when cranking.) that's apparently the "correct" method when servicing it - how many dealers actually do that i don't know... there's obviously much heresay over the web, but afaik, the flat engines do suffer from premature bearing failure unless they're looked after properly. just FYI - i wouldn't let it stop you getting one, but be aware of it. in order to keep up the history on my old car (due to it's very new age) i had it dealer serviced, i wouldn't let them lay a finger on it without me watching though!

glad to see it's finally coming together for you. those are some decent intake temps - good to see. hows the driving experience for you, not too much lag etc? got many miles under the wheel as yet? tidy build - brakes are a bit too extrovert for me, as is the obvious front mount intercooler, but i guess you can't really get round the intercooler bit too much without compromising temps. you going to get it on the rollers once it's all squared away?

i was thinking about that as well - sorry for the hi-jack pal... :? basically whever you put any load on the bearing, you're making it work - the more load, the harder it's working. there's probably actually more load when holding it on the biting point as you're at the "pivot" point in the pressure plate spring's travel where it want to reutrn the most (you're also wearing the clutch plates unecessarily too!) basically you're working the bearing whever the pedal is even slightly pressed! there's no reason EVER to hold the clutch in for long periods; if you're stopped take the car out of gear, if you're on a hill put the handbrake on! really REALLY annoys me!

ABSOLUTELY! i'll also second that - owned a saxo vtr, highly modified ax gt, 205 gti, 306s16 - all fantastic little cars in their own right :)

:lol: :lol: :lol: i laughed lots reading this!!! how exactly can he judge that?!? - arrogant to$$er! i've owned (for "decently" long periods) an impreza wr1, an evo 6 and now an m5 and i would still love to own a corrado again! AND i still miss the 'rado r32. granted (possibly because i'm aging prematurely now!), i wouldn't modify another corrado again, other than the obvious little things like the 288mm brake conversion, rear roll bar, suspension, aero wipers etc etc - but that's more to do with the fact that if i was modifying a car, i would probably choose to build a crazy bhp evo or a similarly silly kit car... as you say - i think our friend in question has a slightly warped vision of things. i'm also frankly amazed that he's slating them like that after owning a 'rado vr6 - even if it had been previously tainted by the crap mk3 golf example.

well the small dark looking "ring-thing" on the right of this picture is the thrust bearing, and yes the gearbox has to come off to replace it (so you may as well do the clutch while you're there!) i have a passionate pet hate for people who sit at lights/junctions etc holding their foot on the clutch! AARRGGGHH! if you think about it, your average crank revolves nearly 17 times every second while sat at a 1000rpm idle. now think about that poor little bearing which has to cope with that every single time you depress the clutch pedal! those bearings are single use only - they never get serviced (as you can't get at them), never get re-greased etc, they are just replaced with the clutch every time. i did a clutch in my friend's 106 rallye ages ago - he used to sit with his foot on the clutch.... and his thrust bearing came out in literally seven different pieces! the plates on his clutch were perfect - had loads of life left in them, but the bearing had packed up simply due to abuse. he doesn't sit with his foot on the clutch anymore!!! anyway, rant over! (and not acusing you of thrust bearing neglect!) but yes - it's not uncommon for bearings to fail early, especially if they're constantly abused by their owners.

i used to own an impreza wrx sti wr1 - liked it! they are solidly built reliable cars. personally i much much prefer evos after having owned both - evos are a much better drivers car - sharper responses, much better turn-in with a LOT less understeer etc etc. evo mechanicals seems to be a fair bit more robust than subaru bits too - but that only really becomes an issue when you start upping power etc. however.... subarus are cheaper, not only to buy but to run due to stupid extra evo costs like active yaw control fluid etc etc i'm a big fan of the legacy estates - they are a nice q-car. i actually toyed with the idea of getting one myself for a while. GET IT BOUGHT - looking forward to your review :D

sexy lady? :wink:[/quote:o3l8p33j] couldn't tell unfortunately... don't think so from first glances (watch me drop myself in it here!), but i haven't seen her properly, so can't comment with authority!

the bearings can start to squeal when they become very old and tired... (do you know if yours has ever had clutch/chains?) it's possible it's the tensioner pulley, but if it happens more when you play with the pedal, that only points to one thing really...

just been reading this thread - very very envious, but also very pleased for you at the same time. i've been priviledged enough to own/drive some very nice cars, but i can't describe how much i want to get out in one of these! good for you you're enjoying it as much as you are - still looking forward to my first test drive! :)

keep on seeing a girl around hereford driving a g60 reg something like h4 gwb - who are you?!?

whay can't you just rest it back on the wheels and put it in gear to top the engine turning for when you torque it up?

glad to hear things are finally on their way to being 100% sorted finally Rob! :D :clap: no doubt you'll be happy to see the end somewhere in sight! any news on getting your flat spot sorted yet? did you confirm if it was the same stretched chain issue that Coxxy had?

sorry to go off topic here a bit - pal your problem sounds more like your thrust bearing than your tensioner pulley to me...

17k miles with T1R's :eek: that's unheard of! - do you ever get off the motorway?!?