Serial

I wonder if anyone has this part [ATTACH=CONFIG]47115[/ATTACH] part number 1H0 419 660 It's specific to VR6's according to EKTA. Cash waiting :-)

I also experienced this problem as in the first post - loss of power for a second or so whilst cruising along the motorway. It started after I went through a fairly deep puddle at speed, and continued until it stopped raining, so it's definitely water-related. I'm guessing coilpack connections.

All ending very soon, most with no bids, grab a bargain!

Most of these still on 99p first bids...

Evening all... I've popped a few random bits on eBay: Complete VR6 Plastics Set VR6 OBD2 Inlet Manifold & Throttle Body VR6 Lower Inlet Manifold, Injectors, Fuel Rail & FPR Plus a few other bits, see my items for sale. Thank you for looking. :-) Tom

Hi all, I'm selling a few bits and bobs from my Corrado on eBay. All Buy It Now or make me an offer! Thanks for looking: http://shop.ebay.co.uk/tom_serial/m.html?_trksid=p4340.l2562 Cheers Tom

Yes - bled everything in order including the two on top of the ABS pump and the master cylinder.

Thats great - will PM you to arrange payment for the MC. Cheers Tom

Hi all, After having spent most of this weekend bleeding about 2 litres of fluid through the brake system, and still not getting anything like a firm pedal, I've come to the conclusion that it must be the master cylinder that's at fault. The brake pedal goes all the way to the bottom with the engine on - I can feel it coming to a stop at the limit of it's travel. So, I've thought of a method of testing the master cylinder to confirm that it is definitely faulty before spending >£250 on a new one (it's the rare ABS one). If I were to make up a short length of hard line (say 6" long) and connect it to the master cylinder output port, then bleed fluid so it comes out of the end of the line, and then clamp the line closed at the end, this should isolate the master cylinder from the rest of the braking system. If it's working properly, then the pedal should be completely solid as no fluid could be pumped along the closed line. If the seals are dodgy then the pedal would still be soft and would slowly sink down under pressure as the fluid seeped past the seals. Anybody see any problems with this method? I might try it tomorrow night and report back...

Hi, do you still have the brake master cylinder? If so I take it it's the ABS version (one output below the bleed valve)... How much posted if you do? thanks Tom

Hi, do you still have the brake master cylinder? If you do and it's the ABS version, I'll take it at asking price. Thanks Tom

Just doing this job myself, although I used polybushes for the rear beam as there was a set on here going cheap. Here's a list of part numbers I used. arb bush 191 411 314 arb bush clamp 191 411 334 steering rack bush 191 422 884 A rear beam bush 1H0 501 541 A lower ball joint 1H0 407 365 track rod inc ends 1H0 422 803 A and 1H0 422 804 A front wishbone bush 357 407 182 Didn't replace the rear wishbone bush as Stealth put in a TT one a year or so ago. I got quite a few bits from http://www.vwspares.co.uk - much cheaper than dealer prices and the supply mostly Febi Bilstein parts which I believe are OE quality...

Next week, the BBC will be sending an intrepid reporter up Mount Everest on a mountain bike, to assess it's suitability... IMHO it's the reporter here who's wrong -- Clearly it's not a good idea to drive an electric car from London to Edinburgh, but that's not really what they're for... Considering the average car journey is around 6 miles, electric cars would be perfectly usable for the vast majority of people who just go to the shops, or to see their friends, or even a daily commute of 40 miles each way would be perfectly do-able with an 8hr charge whilst they're sitting at their desks. If people in london want to go to edinburgh, use a petrol car or get the train or an aeroplane... And, every electric car sold reduces the demand for petrol which will make the price go down, making it cheaper for genuine petrolheads like us! :-)

Just got an email from them with another code: JAN20 which gets you 20% off all orders from 4th until 28th January next year.

I'm sure electric cars will become the norm eventually, just not for another decade or so. I expect they'll become more common in the 'city car' market, as they'd be ideal for nipping into town, doing shopping and running the kids to school, etc... Apparently the average car journey is only around 9 or 10 miles, which would be no problem at all for an electric vehicle. And obviously people will still need a larger petrol or diesel engined cars for doing long journeys with luggage etc. Battery technology will get rapidly much better, I expect we'll see battery packs able to be recharged to 80-90% capacity in 30 mins or so within a few years, and the range will increase as well... As for an electric Corrado, that would be ace! Or even better, how about a gas turbine to charge the batteries if they get a little low, a la the jaguar CX-75... :-)

Sweet. Just in time to fill up to go to the Classic Car Show. :-D

If you remove the plastic centre tunnel you'll see where the cables attach to the hand brake lever mechanism, just undo the lock nuts from the end of the cable and you should be able to pull them out from underneath the car. There's a couple of clips that hold the cable sheath to the rear beam if I remember correctly. On mine the inside of the guide tubes that go through the floor was a bit rusty so it was a bit of an effort to get the cables out but they do fit.

Could potentially be a dodgy wiring connection somewhere, have you tried wiggling all the connections to the fuel sender and see if the gauge starts working. Might give you a clue as to where the problem is.

First time I saw them was on the Audi R8, just about the only negative point about that car IMHO.

me too

I fitted my kit today, it's very straightforward, especially with the excellent fitting instructions. A very worthwhile improvement to any Corrado, highly recommended. :-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39qdhbkTko4

I think women tend to have a large number of minor bumps & scrapes but men have a fewer number big pileups with flames and explosions etc...

Should be able to yes, it's attached to the mechanism with four screws I think, one in each corner.

But it essentially makes no difference, you can either have one 600 yard queue or two 300 yard queues... both will take the same time to filter through, in fact the two queue option would probably take a lot longer due to people not allowing traffic from the right hand lane in. especially if it was 5.30 on a friday... I guess the problem occurs when cars merge in at different points -- if you get some merging early and some waiting till the last moment then its more chaotic, than say if they had 'Merge Here' signs., so everybody knew what was going on...