dutchboy

sold my fully working alpine white valver and got this: complete bare shell - on with rebuilding it. You never know one day i might drive it!!!

thats very nice that mate. got yourself a good one there!!!!

and then thats it? cheers!!! when i run a basic scan it comes back with nothing. is that right?

yep good old double sided tape. Or get a nice leather handbrake trim?

i thought so, i've tried it and cannot get a reading. Is there an adaptor plug for doing this sort of thing? or is it a case of just trapping some wire in there? cheers

I'm having trouble finding which connector to connect to?!?!?!?! Looking from the top, you have two either side of the airbox near to the front of the car, then two ether side at the rear of the box which connect into two valve type things joined by a pipe. Where do you take the reading from? Also do you just take the reading from the connector or from where it plugs in? Sorry for the vague sounding questions but I really need to know. Cheers for all the help guys!!!!!

thats great info. I'm gonna try it tonight. so it needs to be around 100mA then?

hmm, well to help me I know I need to take a reading from the plug on the side of the metering head but cannot find out what that reading should be!! Can anyone help?

basically I've messed with the mixture screw and confused everything!!!

really? so I wont be able to reset the ECU with it?

just wondering which version of vag com and which leads I need for a 1993 2.0 16v? Cheers for any help

UPDATE!! Ok. I had a "mess" again with the metering screw. I unplugged my battery for an hour to hopefully maybe reset the ECU. Whether it worked or not I dont know!!! I then put the metering screw exactly in the middle. I turned it all the way clockwise then all the way anti clockwise and found where the centre is. I left the car for an hour and started it. It started fine. I took it for a drive. It drives fine. The only thing it wont do is idle properly. It is very lumpy. I'm taking it to a local tuning company who specialise in this sort of thing so hopefully all will be fine. Shame though as I really wanted to sort it out myself.

good info. so I just need to find out where to plug the meter in and what the reading needs to be. thanks for your responce, much appreciated

yeah i think that is basically what i have done. Anyone know how to reset the ecu or what i should do? Cheers

anyone?

can anyone help on this?

Very strange. I corrected the mixture using the mixture screw as my car was a little rich. It was all fine and running as smoothly as it ever has. I then turned the car off, went back half hour later and now it wont fire at all!!! What have I done!!! Any suggestions? When I took the inlet pipes apart I noticed a fair amount of oil in there?!?!?!?! any help would be much appreciated

this is the best build thread ever!!!!!!! Such detail!!

I had the same problem recently. It turned out it was the thermo switch. I replaced that (£8 from AVS), flushed the coolant system and now all is well. Sits around 90 - 100.

It could be the misfire but i still think it could be down to engine mounts. Is the noise around 2000 - 3500 revs and then does it go? I have the same noise and I've put it down to a cheap and nasty rear engine mount that I had fitted.

Well can I order one please? How do I pay

yep i'd like one of these. they still available?

well i've measured my arches and they are exactly the same?!!! :confused4: Any idea what else it could be?

damn. thats annoying!! it's a 1993 16v so it should have the wider arches right? So the one on the nearside is probably the one that has been replaced with an early one. Oh well more money!

I have a bit of a weird problem. When I look at my two front wheels from head on, the nearside wheel seems to stick out further than the offside wheel probably by about 20 - 30 mm!! Any ideas? Cheers