larkin

sorry man but I sold the car before i got round to rewiring the loom! i bought a tool for opening the pins but it was the wrong one and i hadnt found the motivation to go back to it since im 95% sure it was a dodgy wire somewhere in the loom as i was getting different resistance readings on one wire when it was wiggled.. If you have autodata it gives you the abs mutlimeter pin test readings for all the valves.. You can use the the plug that goes into the abs ECU (passenger footwell behind kick panel) as a breakout box for a multimeter to test the loom readings.. another thing to check when you plug out the ABS ecu is for corrosion on the ecu pins, you might be lucky and it might just be bad connections from the plug to the ecu caused by a water leak..) a bit of light sandpaper and contact cleaner here might be worth a try.. i miss those special saturdays with the dash in a million pieces.. hope this helps barry

this looks likely: http://shop.t-g-s.de/product_info.php?products_id=313

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... con_uk%3aN)&Ntx=mode%2bmatchallpartial&N=4294953910&Nty=1 its a bit of a tricky one, theres like 800 "connector tools" id say that i would need to know the name of that plug connector to get the correct search term..

RS you say.. do they have a website?

Ok, I think I have found my problem! One of the wires in the loom seems to be dodgy. All the valve wires return the correct resistances (7.5 inlet, 3.5 outlet) except for the RH front inlet which was giving me 11ohms.. When I wiggled this wire at the pump end of the loom the resistance readings varied from 9ohms to 40ohms! So I think that the wire may be damaged internally and this is what was causing my intermittant abs light. My next step is to somehow replace the wire in the loom. I want to remove the pin from the plug and solder a new wire in place and replace the offending wire back to the ecu I really dont want to botch this and do it right so: Does anyone know the best way for removing the pin (circled below). Perhaps there is some kind of little tweezers tool or a trick to removing the pins.. if anyone knows how to do this without damaging the plug id appreciate any tips??

ok, So i dug out all the rubber glue where the ribbon cable goes to the plug and tested the continuity from each pin back to its solenoid terminal. They all have perfect continuity, even when i wiggle the cable a bit im still getting 0 ohms resistance between the pin and the solenoid across all lines in the ribbon cable. :shrug: i suppose next stop is to test the loom plug itself and then remove the glovebox etc to test the loom back to ecu... i have the ecu pin testing procedure somewhere.. anyone got any tips for testing the loom? anyone know where the abs circuit is earthed? :scratch: cheers, barry

ok so i opened up the old abs pump tonight to try and see if i could figure out where the fault was.. i measured the resistance across all the solenoids/valves and got the following readings... Im guessing that one row is the inlet valves and one row is the outlet valves hence the 2 different resistances. What I was hoping though that one of the valves would show an open circuit to suggest which ribbon cable line was at fault. The fact that all the resistances are similar is leading me to believe that maybe this pump is fine and my original problem lies elsewhere on the wiring circuit.. Has anyone had any experience rewiring this type of pump before or can give me any more info on what else i can try?

hey andy, did you ever manage to dig out that wiring diagram? cheers, barry

another quick check it that the big counterweight on the selector (on top of the gearbox) hasent worked loose. I was having trouble getting gears and thought my gearbox was knackered but the weight had just worked loose and was ratlling around. easy fix, tightened down the nut (a 13mm i think) and the gearchange was silky smooth again.. worth checkin anyhow man

oh yea andy, one more question... how did you bleed the top circuit? maybe we didnt bleed correctly when the pump was changed as it did work initially for a couple of days before i started getting the intermittant fault..

cheers andy that would be a great help when you get a chance.. i tested continuity between the plug and the valve pins but get connectivity on all valvepins no matter which plug pin i test so maybe im doing somthing silly.. hey timbo i dunno which type of system you have but on mine (teves 04) you just open two allen key screws in the bottom the plastic part that the wire connector plug into and the plastic bottom cover just lifts off so that you can see the ribbon cable..

hey alemay, I think i might have a similar problem... heres my abs saga: had my abs light always on and the following errors: Control Module Part Number: 1H0 907 379 D Component and/or Version: ABS TEVES 04 2 Faults Found: 00276 - ABS Outlet Valve: Left Rear (N136) 00285 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor: Front Right (G45) so after reading a lot of posts and checking the ecu connectors relays etc etc i replaced my pump and the offending sensors... light went off after startup , happy days or so i thought... about 2 days later the light came on when i was driving, following errors: Friday, 07 November 2008, 19:00:14 3 Faults Found: 00259 - ABS Inlet Valve: Front Right (N99) 00276 - ABS Outlet Valve: Left Rear (N136) 00793 Brake Pedal Position Sensor Since that ive been getting intermittant abs light coming on, usually about 10 minutes into a journey. Friday, 14 November 2008, 17:26:26 00259 - ABS Inlet Valve: Front Right (N99) 00276 - ABS Outlet Valve: Left Rear (N136) 00793 Brake Pedal Position Sensor Monday, 17 November 2008, 08:31:33 2 Faults Found: 00259 - ABS Inlet Valve: Front Right (N99) 00276 - ABS Outlet Valve: Left Rear (N136) Thursday, 27 November 2008, 17:17:12 3 Faults Found: 00259 - ABS Inlet Valve: Front Right (N99) 00276 - ABS Outlet Valve: Left Rear (N136) 00793 Brake Pedal Position Sensor my question is, is my new pump bad too? this seems like too much of a coincidence.. I opened up the old pump and the ribbin cable looks perfect . any tips for checking the ribbon cable? im starting to think that the wiring may be bad between the ecu and the pump or the ecu itself... the pins on the ecu look fine with no obvious water damage.. any ideas?

hi man, try taking off your idle stabilising valve and soaking it with carb cleaner for a few hours, after i had my 16v off the road for a few weeks it wouldnt idle cos the isv was sticking. my car is also a bit thirsty, i average 26mpg and it only ever reads up to 30-31 mpg on a very long moterway drive.. think it should be better than this.. maybe other 16v drivers can list their average mpg?

In the end i found a good motor factor and he got me good quality generic g60 discs for

good thread here on stripping/rebuilding... http://forums.fourtitude.com/zerothread?id=3186789

cool man, i think the brand is febi.. dunno much about the different types of pads myself so excuse my ignorance! I can get the discs and pads delivered from vwspares them to ireland for about

looks good, whats the quality like on those ones?

dealer just quoted me

hey rob, im planning on putting them onto my 16v corrado so that i can fit the 280 discs.. have the calipers cleaned up pretty well but havent removed the piston yet, waiting to order the piston seals.. just got off the phone from the dealer there, they really dont want to help if you dont give then the VIN of the car the calipers came from! However after a bit of coaxing he looked up a 1994 corrado. Only one seal kit came up on his computer for all 94 corrados, the part number is 431698471B. so im assuming that all the piston seal kits are the same whether you have a 16V 256mm type caliper or the 280mm/288mm ones? maybe all girling 54s use the same size seals? maybe someone else can confirm? -barry

Im watchin this thread too, in the middle of stripping down some ebay g60 calipers myself.. hey robster, another paddy corrado owner with a binding caliper, whats the odds eh? These are is the part no's on the ones im stripping: Caliper says "4200" "323235717 7" and "CN 4" The Carrier has "32323538/2" and "CN 4201" A part number for the right piston seal kit would help me out too if anyone has the info to hand.. the guy in the dealers says i need a vin number and theres a few different kits,

woops, just re-read your post and i see you were talking about discs! i thought you ment pads... :roll: erm, so which pads to go with my vw discs and and the mk3 gti carriers/calipers?

cheers jim, ill check out the dealers price so.. Any recommendations on which discs to buy? my local brakes suppliers do 280mm vented discs for

Hi Guys, Ive got my G60 calipers and carriers and am in the process of stripping them down and repainting... In the meantime I want to order my new 280 discs and pads from GSF. They have a lot of different types on the website and just wondering which to order... 60175 BRAKE DISC-VENTED 256mm CO 16V >95 60175F BRAKE DISC-BREMBO'MAX' CO 16V 4/89 > 60195 BRAKE DISC-VENTED CO G60 60200 BRAKE DISC-VENTED(5 STUD) CO VR6 60200F BRAKE DISC-BREMBO'MAX' CO VR6 60340 BRAKE DISC-REAR(4 STUD) B CO 1.8 / 2.0 16v 60342 BRAKE DISC-REAR(5 STUD) B CO VR6 62359 BRAKE DISC-VEN(5STUD)(BQ) CO VR6 8/91 > 62359B BRAKE DISC-VENTED CO G60 9/88 > 62359BF BRAKE DISC-VENTED X DRILL CO G60 9/88 > 62359F BRAKE DISC-VENTED X DRILL CO VR6 8/91 > 62372 BRAKE DISC-VENTED 256mm CO 16V 4/89 > 62372F BRAKE DISC-VENTED X DRILL CO 16V 4/89 > 62422 BRAKE DISC-REAR(4 STUD)BQ CO G60 9/88 > 62422 BRAKE DISC-REAR(4 STUD)BQ CO 16V 4/89 > 62422F BRAKE DISC-REAR X DRILLED CO 16V 4/89 > 62422F BRAKE DISC-REAR X DRILLED CO G60 9/88 > 62424 BRAKE DISC-REAR(5 STUD) CO VR6 8/91 > 62424F BRAKE DISC-REAR X DRILLED CO VR6 8/91 > 62458 BRAKE DISC LOCATING SCREW CO All 64325A BRAKE PAD SET-PAGID CO G60 (Without Pad Wear Indicator) 9/88 > 64325A BRAKE PAD SET-PAGID CO VR6 (Without Pad Wear Indicator) 8/91 > 64325FG BRAKE PAD SET-EBC GREENST CO G60 (Without Pad Wear Indicator) 9/88 > 64325FG BRAKE PAD SET-EBC GREENST CO VR6 (Without Pad Wear Indicator) 8/91 > 64326 BRAKE PAD SET-PAGID TQ CO VR6 (With Pad Wear Indicator) 8/91 > 64326 BRAKE PAD SET-PAGID TQ CO G60 (With Pad Wear Indicator) 9/88 > 64326A BRAKE PAD SET-JURID CO G60 (With Pad Wear Indicator) 9/88 > 64326A BRAKE PAD SET-JURID CO VR6 (With Pad Wear Indicator) 8/91 > 64326FG BRAKE PAD SET EBC GREENST CO VR6 (With Pad Wear Indicator) 8/91 > 64520A BRAKE PAD SET-PAGID CO 16V 4/89 > 64520FG BRAKE PAD SET-EBC GREENST CO 16V 4/89 > 64601A BRAKE PAD SET-REAR PAGID CO 9/88 > 64601FG BRAKE PAD SET-RE EBC GREE CO 9/88 > any recommendations? Also to be sure that the calipers i have are the correct ones before i order the discs (i got em off ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170240366535&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:GB:1123 apparently they are off a mk3 golf gti) can anyone tell me the correct part no

ok, my 16v was parked up for the last 3 weeks waiting for parts and when i started it up it wouldnt idle. Needed to keep it above 1000rpm with the throttle or it would cut out. Checked the 3 pin connector from throttle body, that was ok, so figured it must be a stuck ISV. To fix i kept my foot on the accelerator to keep the her above 1000rpm and got my dad to keep tapping the ISV repeatedly with a little bit of wood. This freed up the ISV and now its idling properly again. Gonna take off the ISV when I get a chance and soak it in carb cleaner to make sure it doesnt sieze again. This fix may be worth a try if anyone else has a non idling 16v... ;)

looking at this pic that I found on another post: there is a circle here for the after run swith #7, is this an alternate location? i have a hole there also on the back of the head. i don't seem to have any thermo-time switch either #4, that hole is also blank is this normal for the 9A engine? What exactly does this switch do?